SmartyKat, Sweet Greens, Cat Grass Seed Kit, Cat Treats, 100% Certified Organic, Natural, Oat Seeds, 1 Oz

 SmartyKat, Sweet Greens, Cat Grass Seed Kit, Cat Treats, 100% Certified Organic, Natural, Oat Seeds, 1 Oz

•     SmartyKat sweet greens sprouts of certified Organic oat Grass seeds you grow yourself in a simple easy to grow kite tasty
•     The kit includes seeds soil approved for organic gardening and a Potting container
•     Add water for delicious greens in days
•     Available in a 1-ounce pack
•     Made in the USA
•     100% satisfaction. If a customer is dissatisfied with a Smarty Kat product for any reason, we will replace or refund it.
•     The kit includes seeds soil approved for organic gardening and a potting container
•     Sweet greens are tasty sprouts of certified organic oat grass seeds you grow yourself in a simple easy to grow kit
•     Add water for delicious greens in days
•     Available in a 1-ounce pack

How to make a lawn grow easily

Everyone dreams of having a perfect lawn. There is nothing better than looking at a lush green lawn from your front door. But you don't have to be a landscaper to get the lawn of your dreams. Whether you start with seeds or sod, the important thing is to have proper planning and good soil.

Part 1 Prepare the lawn

1
Choose which herb is the most suitable for your climate. Depending on where you live, you will do better with some varieties of herbs than others. Herbs fall into two basic categories: the warm season and the cold season. [1]

• Warm season grasses are able to survive a harsh summer and tend to do well in tropical areas and in climatic zones such as the southern states of the United States. Choose varieties like Bermuda, San Agustín, and Kikuyo. [two]
• Cold season grasses withstand cold much better than warm season grasses. They can tolerate freezing temperatures and some drought. Don't expect them to survive the heat or go more than 4 weeks without water. For example, Kentucky bluegrass is a well-known cool-season herb. [3]

2
Determine the best time to start. If you opt for a warm season herb, plant it in late spring. If you choose a cool season herb, plant it in late summer or early fall. [4]

• If you're going to plant from sod, the time of year doesn't matter much, but summer can still be very hot.

3
Test the soil. Before you start planting the grass, you must make sure that the soil is in good condition. A good idea is to test the soil . This test will allow you to know the amount and type of fertilizer you should use. [5]

• It is difficult to modify the soil of an established lawn. [6]
• If you need to add fertilizer, apply it to the first 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm). [7]

4
Prepare the soil. This is a crucial step. Soil preparation is the most important part of ensuring healthy lawn growth. The goal is for the soil to be loose, rich in organic matter and able to retain moisture while draining it properly. [8]

• Clear the area of ​​weeds, rocks, and roots. With the help of a shovel, dig up any large objects that are in the area where you are going to plant the grass. Make sure to completely remove the roots of the weed. [9]
• You may need to use a chemical herbicide to completely kill the weed. If so, check the manufacturer's instructions for how much to use. [10]
• Plow the soil by hand or a rototiller, depending on the size of the area. This is the ideal opportunity to incorporate compost or other nutrients into the soil. [eleven]
• Add gypsum to the soil to improve drainage. [12]

5
Level the area. Once you've finished clearing and plowing the area, it's ready to be leveled. Use a rake and smooth the entire area. Fill in the low spots and break up the remaining lumps. [13]

• While you are leveling the area, it is a good idea to leave a slope away from the foundation of the house. Leaving a slope will help avoid water runoff problems in the future. [14]

Part 2 Grow a lawn from seed

1
Spread the seeds. Set the seed spreader to the recommended speed and fill it with half the seeds. To ensure better coverage, first run it in one direction over the entire lawn. Then fill the spreader with the remaining seeds and pass it through the starting direction. Consider making a crisscross pattern over the area. [fifteen]

• You can re-cover the entire area with an empty spreader to ensure that there is good contact between the seeds and the soil. [16]

2
Fertilize the soil. Once you've planted the entire area, add a little peat moss to the soil to establish the seeds and help them retain moisture. With the help of a cage roller, apply a thin layer of peat moss on the seeds. [17]

• This layer of compost will help keep the seeds moist during germination. It also protects them from birds and will limit their movement in the event of heavy rain. [18]

3
Water the seeds. Perhaps the best way to water them is to use an oscillating sprinkler. If you have access to multiple sprinklers, place them in various parts of your yard to wet the entire area. [19]

• For best results, water the seeds 2 to 3 times a day for 5 to 10 minutes for the first 8 to 10 days. During this period, it is essential that the seeds are kept moist. You should not water them excessively, as the objective is to stimulate germination. Water in the morning to reduce the chances of evaporation. [twenty]
• Don't use a harsh spray when watering a freshly seeded lawn. You run the risk of choking the seeds or pushing them away. [twenty-one]
• When watering your lawn, take into account the potential rainfall in your area. You should also take the amount of rain into account, and try to apply 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. [22]
• If you live in an area prone to heavy rains, you could lose some seeds. However, the rain must be strong enough to move the soil before it can displace the seeds. [2. 3]

4
Trim new grass. Once the grass has reached 3-4 inches (7-10 cm), it's time to prune it. Check that the soil is dry when you prune it. If it's wet, you could rip the grass off the ground. [24]


Part 3 Growing a lawn from sod

1
Buy your sod. Growing a lawn from sod is much more expensive than growing from seed, but it is much faster. Turf, which comes in rolls, is an herb that has been cultivated for a little over a year. The roots hold the strips together, allowing you to lay long strips above the prepared soil. [25]

• You can plant sod in almost any season, but if you plan to plant sod in the summer, be sure to water it thoroughly. [26]
• Keep the sod moist and cool while you work with it. Keep a spray bottle handy to keep it from drying out. [27]

2
Get the grass the same day you plan to lay it. The grass will start to spoil and die quickly if you put it aside, so you should plan its placement on the day you buy it. Also, make sure you only buy the amount you can install in a single day. Then water it a little, cover it with jute and keep it in a shady area until you are ready to use it.

• Keep your lawn cool and damp while you work with it. Keep a spray bottle on hand to keep it from drying out. [28]

3
Lay out the first row. Start by laying the sod along the longest straight edge of your patio, usually by a fence or driveway. Do not walk on the sod while laying it and if you do, smooth the tracks with a rake. [29]

• Cut off excess sod with a sharp knife and reserve for uneven corners. [30]
• Make sure the turf is smooth as you install it. It should be spread out against the ground, so that the roots are well fixed. [31]

4
Keep the sod tight. As you begin to install the sod, avoid leaving gaps between each strip of sod. The sod should be snug close to hard surfaces (such as pavement or brick) so that the edges do not dry out. [32]

• Cut off the middle of the second strip of sod when you lay it down. Doing so will allow you to create staggered joints, similar to bricks. In this way, the joints will be less visible and the edges will not dry out. [33]

5
Water while you work. New sod needs to be kept moist. Once you've laid the first rows, water the sod well. Pause to check the humidity every two to three rows. [3. 4]

• Pay close attention to the edges, as they can dry quickly. [35]

6
Fill the gaps. Although it is best to keep the strips of sod tight together, there may still be some gaps. Instead of using small strips of sod that will dry very quickly, fill in the spaces with potting soil or peat. [36]

7
Use a lawn roller to compress the lawn. Once you have laid out all the grass rows, roll over them that is full with water or sand. This will flatten the grass and firmly compress it to the surface.

8
Water the sod one last time. Once you've finished laying the last strip of sod, wet the grass. [37]

• Water the sod until the soil underneath is soaked. Not only will this allow the roots to establish faster, but it will also ensure that the sod is too wet to walk over. [38]
• Avoid heavy traffic for the first two weeks, as this could disturb the sod and prevent the formation of solid roots. After two weeks, it will be safe to prune it. [39]

Tips

• Fertilize after mowing the lawn for the first time. Regardless of whether you started with seeds or sod, it is important to keep your lawn fertilized.
• Grass poop has different requirements. Pay attention to the specific needs of the herb you have chosen.
• If you lose seeds due to heavy rain, smooth the soil when it dries and add more seeds.

Things you will need

• sod or grass seeds;
• a fertilizer;
• peat;
• a rake;
• a shovel;
• a hose or a sprinkler;
• a seed spreader;
• gloves.

Scotts Turf Builder Grass Seed Zoysia Grass Seed and Mulch, 5 lb. - Full Sun and Light Shade - Thrives in Heat & Drought - Grows a Tough, Durable, Low-Maintenance Lawn - Seeds up to 2,000 sq. ft.

 Scotts Turf Builder Grass Seed Zoysia Grass Seed and Mulch, 5 lb. - Full Sun and Light Shade - Thrives in Heat & Drought - Grows a Tough, Durable, Low-Maintenance Lawn - Seeds up to 2,000 sq. ft.

•  Zoysia grass seed & mulch is designed for full sun and light shade
• Combines mulch and grass seed to grow a tough, durable, low-maintenance lawn
• Extremely versatile seed mix that's 99.9% weed free
• Thrives in heat, drought and partial shade
• Seeds up to 2,000 sq. ft. 

How to plant or sow grass yourself.

I teach you the easiest way to plant or sow grass.
Yes, that's right, planting or sowing grass with seeds has no difficulty and you can do it yourself, whether you only need to reseed some of the areas of your lawn that look worse, or to renew it completely. There are several ways to plant or sow grass, I am going to show you the simplest so you can do it without complications.

When to plant or sow the lawn?
The best times to plant or sow grass with seeds in Spain are Spring and early Autumn . Both are times that we can call “growth”, that is, everything grows after having overcome the extreme times; winter or summer. In these extreme times it is not advisable to plant or sow grass.

At the beginning of Autumn (in Spain), the grass comes out faster because the ground is hot from the end of summer, and it covers a lot after two weeks. In spring, the grass takes a little longer to cover the area, about three to four weeks.

Logically, the best time to sow grass with seeds depends on the climate of each area.

In continental climates, the ideal planting runs from mid-March to the end of May. In autumn, we will preferably sow between the end of August and mid-October.

In oceanic climates, sowing periods are longer both in spring and autumn, as these are mild and humid climates.

In the warm climates of the Mediterranean and southern regions, spring sowing can be anticipated in early March, and even late February, lasting until mid-May. In autumn, you should not start sowing until early September, extending the sowing season until early - mid-November.

The warm climate tussock species (Cynodon dactylon, Pennisetum clandestinum, Paspalum vaginatum, etc.), require night temperatures of about 13ºC for their germination, and daytime temperatures of about 17 / 18ºC. Therefore they must be sown well into spring or early summer. There is no fall planting for these lawns.

For temperate climate species, autumn plantings are always preferable, since we are moving towards cooler temperatures and more humid weather, conditions that are generally appreciated by tussock grasses. Furthermore, in autumn, the incidence of weeds is much lower than in spring.

However, gardening is also linked to the law of supply and demand. It is in spring when private owners and municipal technicians get down to work to prepare the parks and gardens for their moment of greatest use and enjoyment. For this reason, in spring most of the annual plantings are concentrated.

Preparing the ground for sowing grass
To ensure a good implantation of the lawn it is very important that the soil has good conditions. It must have a good structure, that is, the ability to retain water without weighing it down, and a sandy texture that guarantees good drainage.

• Do a deep tillage with a hoe or motor hoe digging about 15-20 centimeters into the ground. This way you can remove and remove stones, root debris and other coarse elements, as well as pre-existing vegetation. If you wet the ground it will be easier for you. Rake to remove the smallest debris and then leave it perfectly smooth.
• If you are renovating your old lawn and cannot till it because it would break the irrigation system, then tear off the old lawn in a layer of about 6 cm. manually or renting an appropriate machine if you find it in your area.
• Eliminate unwanted weeds with a "False seeding." To prevent plants from growing in the grass in the future, water the land for several days so that the seeds that are in the ground germinate. When they have germinated you can repeat the tillage and rake well. Another alternative is to apply a total non-residual herbicide ( total herbicide ) and repeat the operation about 15 days later.
• Make sure the soil drains well. Waterlogging can lead to grass root rot, fungal disease, or moss spots. Ensuring good drainage is therefore essential. It will be necessary to smooth the surface to eliminate any concavity and also provide a slight unevenness towards a natural or artificial drain if possible. Spreading a layer of sand will ensure optimal drainage; To establish its thickness, take into account the nature of the terrain. If it is clay, the most efficient is to mix the earth with sand. If there are still areas with excess water, it will be necessary to install a drainage network.
• Bury the irrigation system. Buried sprinkler pipes and parts should be installed at this time. Make sure the design of the irrigation system is well thought out and water the entire area evenly.
• Add mulch or topsoil. Turf needs a layer of topsoil at least 10 centimeters thick to grow strong and shiny. You can add this layer or enrich the soil that you already have well composted organic compost or mulch that will provide it with slow release nutrients, which will favor microbial activity and improve the structure.
• Level the surface. The last steps before sowing are to level the surface with a rake so that it is perfectly even, and pass it with a roller or garden roller to smooth it.

What kind of grass to plant?
There are many varieties of grass, since the grass itself is a mixture of several types of grass seeds. Depending on the type of seeds and the percentage of them among themselves, we will obtain one type of grass or another. We cannot say that one type of lawn is better than another, but rather that one type of lawn will adapt better than another to our garden, that is, to the particular conditions of our garden or the area in which we live. Climatic conditions, characteristics of the soil and irrigation water, insolation, proximity to the sea, care that it will receive and use that it will be given.

I recommend that you pay attention to the type of grass you are going to sow, asking professionals in your area or the nearest Garden Center why they have the experience, or consulting this video advice ➜ What types of grass seeds to sow in Spain , where we talk about it. If your garden has special conditions to take into account, such as shady areas, do not let them overlook them.

Once you have chosen the type of grass, it is important that you take good note, not only of the commercial brand, but of its composition. Write it down and save this informationso that in the future, if you had to reseed again, you can do it with the same type of grass or with the most suitable grass to regenerate damaged areas. Believe me, if you plant or sow grass with different types of grass, you can tell the difference, and after the years you have an unpresentable hodgepodge.

Step by step for planting the lawn.

1- First attention to drainage. Check if the land has drainage problems, that is, if after heavy rains the water remains stagnant in puddles for a long time. If this is the case, you should take care of solving this problem before doing anything, if you don't do it like this, then everything will be problems, the grass will not grow well and it will develop problems due to fungi. If you do not see special drainage problems in your garden, you do not need to do anything because the installation of drainage systems is very expensive and you must assume them only when you have no other choice.

2- The irrigation system and the quality of its design and installation is very important, if you want to sow a new lawn from scratch make sure you install a good, well-designed automatic irrigation system, and if you are going to renew your lawn or do a reseeding of damaged areas, thoroughly review the irrigation system to improve it or adjust it where necessary before continuing. Most of the problems that I encounter every day on lawns are caused by a bad design of the irrigation system that does not water the area evenly, with very wet areas and others that are half dry.

3- If you are going to start from scratch, or you are going to renew your lawn, do a false sowing, which means that you must water the land for a few weeks as if it were already sown (although in reality you have not sown anything yet), this way you will get them to germinate almost all the weed seeds you have in the field and then apply a total herbicide to eliminate them.

4- The grass will need a layer of quality soil of about 7 to 10 centimeters, so you must add vegetated soil, to create this layer that guarantees its good growth. Topsoil is a mixture of compost, sand, and normal garden soil. Do not use only compost thinking that it will be a better quality base because among many inconveniences you will see mushrooms that although they do not kill the lawn, they do make it very ugly, as you can see in this small video:

• If you start from scratch you must till the land, you can help yourself from a rototiller that you can rent, and rake all the surface stones before adding the new layer of topsoil. If you are going to renovate your lawn, you cannot till the land because you run the risk of breaking the irrigation pipes, just tear off the existing lawn to a depth of about 6 cm. Topsoil can be mixed with 30% sand if you need to improve drainage. Finally, level the ground with a rake and compact it a bit with a roller.

5- In the manuals they advise applying a chemical fertilizer in the background, I recommend that you do not apply it yet, that you wait until the grass has come out and it already has two or three cuts to fertilize it. Then I do advise you to fertilize it, but with an organo-mineral slow release fertilizer, which lasts 2-3 months and prevents burns on the lawn. Why? Because a perfect lawn does not always come out the first time and it is usually normal to have to do small “support” replants in some areas during the first weeks. So if you don't fertilize it, the grass will grow slowly and you can make these corrections. If you fertilize it before it grows, it will grow quickly, you will have to cut it, and these tasks will be an obstacle for small “support” replants.

6- Give a final raking and broadcast the seed (by hand) and first the edges first and then the rest in two crossed passes to make a more homogeneous distribution. There are also some simple mechanical machines that you can rent or buy for this task. It is important that the seed is distributed evenly. For seed mixtures, a dose of 40 gr./m2 is usually recommended. However, I recommend that you double that amount because not all the seeds will germinate, and many others will be the appetizer of birds or they will become part of the ants' pantry. If you find an anthill, apply an ant product.

7- With a metal broom placed in an “upside down” position, gently rake the area to semi-bury the grass seeds. It is about burying them a little but without moving them from place, gently. In the manuals they recommend covering the seeds with a layer, for example, of mulch (soil fertilized with manure) or (fine topsoil), however this work is not essential and you can save it, the seeds will germinate without problems with gentle raking. In addition, applying that cover layer requires a certain skill not to move the seeds or bury them too much.

8- Also in the manuals you will see that they advise to pass a roller to compact once the land has been seeded, I recommend that you do not do it either, first because once the land has already been seeded and gently raked it is better not to tread or tinker anymore, and second, because with watering the seed will join with the ground without the need to “crush” it with a roller.

9- And to water! As the seed is in the surface layer of the ground, you must always keep it moist. To do this, water a few minutes but many times a day, because the surface of the ground dries quickly, however we do not need the ground to be very wet in depth because there are no seeds there. I recommend 3 irrigations a day, at 7 in the morning, at 1 in the afternoon, and at 6 in the afternoon. At night it is not necessary because humidity is maintained in the absence of sun. The irrigation time will depend on the design of the irrigation system you have and the time you are sowing. Remember, the idea is to keep the surface 2-5 centimeters moist, so you can start for example with 10 minutes and monitor the first waterings to see if the watering time needs to be increased or reduced. Above all, do not make puddles because each puddle is going to be a future bald spot that you will have to reseed again. As the grass grows, you have to reduce the watering, going to only twice a day when the green already covers the ground, and once a day after the first mowing that you must then schedule at night.

10- The first mowing after sowing is of great importance and should be done when the grass has reached 10 centimeters in height. Only a third of the total length has to be trimmed to encourage new shoots to grow on the crown and get
the plant is spread wide. In later mowing it is advisable to maintain that cutting height, although always taking into account the variety of grass chosen. The more frequent the cuts, the higher the density the plant mat will develop.


Once the new grass is born, and after some other mowing, fertilize it as we mentioned before, yes, when you have finished the small replanting of the possible bald spots that have arisen, do not worry that it is normal that everything is not perfect at first. Keep an eye out for anything unusual, just in case overwatering during planting could have caused a fungal problem in the fragile new lawn, although this rarely happens. If you see a strange color in any area, apply a broad spectrum fungicide (for various types of fungi) and repeat after 15 days.

Bloem Easy Pour Watering Can, 2.6 Gallon, Black (20-47287CP)

 Bloem Easy Pour Watering Can, 2.6 Gallon, Black (20-47287CP)

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Essential tips for watering in summer

It is the most repeated phrase of the summer: "Wow, how hot it is!" If they could talk, our plants would tell us the same thing. And they would add: "Wow, I'm thirsty!" For them, the expressions "dying of heat" or "dying of thirst" can be literal. Logically, with the summer heat they need to hydrate more, but beware! Not all plants are watered in the same way , nor do they need the same amount of water, or the same frequency of irrigation to be well hydrated. Watering does not consist of pouring water without rhyme or reason, we must take into account many factors: the biology of the plant, the type of pot, the substrate, the place where it is located, the time ...

To make it easy for you, Jardineamos tells you the keys so that your plants — and your lawn — are perfect all summer. Healthy, happy and well hydrated.

1. To each plant its water
Treating all plants equally is a very common mistake. Each plant has different needs for light, temperature, humidity, substrate ... And also water, of course. There are plants that require very little quantity, even in summer, such as cacti, shrubs, vines or aromatic plants (except mint). And others, on the other hand, need you to water them and spray their leaves daily , especially if they stay in the sun for many hours. Some species are very sensitive and must be watered by placing a dish of water under the pot. Acidophilic plants do not like tap water, with too much lime. Plants that are in the flowering or fruiting phase require more water.

So, the first thing is to inform yourself about the biology of your plants . As a general guideline, with its exceptions, plants with larger leaves and less light requirements tend to need more water.

 

2. Don't dry me ... or drown me
Logically, in the hottest months the plants need more hydration. But this does not necessarily mean a lot of water. It is more serious to water too much than to water too little; Oddly enough, many more plants die from excess water — literally drowned — than from lack of irrigation . If you water too much, the water does not let air into the substrate and, consequently, the roots cannot breathe, the plant withers and dies. Excess moisture also facilitates the appearance of fungi and other diseases that damage the roots.

As a rule, the water should reach the roots sufficiently but without puddling the earth; and trying to do it evenly, that is, distributing the water throughout the irrigation area.

 

3. The best time to water
In outdoor plants, the best time to water in summer is at dusk or early in the morning , when it is not too hot. In this way, the water will be better used by the plants. Also, high temperatures can evaporate the water before it reaches the roots. Also keep in mind that plants in full sun will lose more moisture through perspiration and evaporation.

Also be careful with the leaves . If they are kept wet at night they can end with mold; And if they stay wet in the sun, the magnifying glass effect can cause burns.

 

4. Be careful with the frequency of irrigation
It is a fundamental issue that depends on several factors. First, if the plants are in pots, they must be watered more often , as they have less substrate to retain moisture and, therefore, the roots end up with the water reserve earlier. The size and material of the pot also have an influence : the larger it is, the more water it can store; and porous materials like wood or ceramic retain less moisture than a plastic pot. The type of substrate is also very important : clayey ones retain more moisture because they are not very breathable, the opposite of cactus substrates; the most recommended is the universal substrate, which has a balanced relationship between retention, nutrients and oxygenation.


5. Don't waste water
The rule of thumb is to water as much as necessary and as little as possible . The ideal is to install an automated irrigation system with a humidity sensor; drip irrigation is more efficient versus sprinkler or hose. But there are also other ways to save water when it is most scarce, which is in summer: collect rainwater, with drums, cisterns, ponds or any other method of collection; group the plants into zones according to their irrigation needs, so you can water each zone independently; place padding at the base of the plants to retain moisture; the wind dries the plants a lot, protect them with hedges, trees, fences, etc .; choose native plants, which do not need irrigation, as they are supplied by rain ...

 

6. And some tips for watering the lawn
-The watering must be abundant and regular (in summer, once a day minimum); the important thing is that the water reaches the roots, it does not stay on the leaves. But be careful not to puddle the soil, as it can cause fungi and diseases.

-Use more water in sandy areas , and less in clay soils , shaded areas and hollows.

-The best times to water are first thing in the morning and before sunset. It is not advisable to water at night , since the water does not evaporate causes the appearance of fungi.

-If the grass is freshly cut, it will need more water, as the sunlight affects it more.

How to water the plants correctly?

Watering is one of the most important tasks that every gardener must do. Without water, plants cannot live and, therefore, produce flowers or fruit . But sometimes it is not easy to control; and if we take into account that extremes are very detrimental to the health of our plant beings ... things can get much more complicated.

To make it easier for you, it's time to offer you a series of tips on how to water your plants correctly .

Check the humidity of the soil

To control more or less irrigation it is important to check the humidity of the soil or substrate. Each of the plants that we have on the patio or in the garden has its own water needs; for example, flowering plants or palm trees need slightly less water than grass .

In order to avoid problems, you must first make sure that the soil or substrate really needs water, but how? Very easy:

Land :
Small plant (flowers, shrubs, cacti, etc.): if we want to know that a small plant that is planted in the garden has to be watered, what we will do is dig a little (no more than 10-15cm depending on its size the plant) not far from the trunk or main stem. If it is wet, at that depth we would see that the earth has a darker color.
Large plant (tree, palm, bamboo, etc.): in these cases the ideal would be to go deeper, about 20cm.
Substrate : there are different ways to know if the substrate is wet or dry:
Weigh the pot once it is watered and again after a few days: when it is wet it weighs slightly more than when it is dry, so this difference in weight can serve as a guide.
Introduce a digital humidity meter: when it is introduced it will instantly tell us what degree of humidity there is. To make it more useful, it is advisable to introduce it in other areas of the pot (closer to the trunk or stem of the plant, further away ...).
Dig a bit on the surface: you don't have to go too deep, especially if it's a plant that has been in the pot for a long time. It will suffice with about 5-15cm depending on the size of the pot (the deeper it is, the more it can be deepened).


Soak the soil or substrate well

Irrigation is not just pouring water. If we want the entire root system to be hydrated, it is necessary that, when we water, the entire soil or the entire substrate is well soaked . For this reason, it is not advisable to pour only one glass of water every X days, because that glass can only be useful if a small pot is watered.

If we have plants that are in pots , regardless of the season of the year we are in, we have to water until the water comes out through the drainage holes and, above all, until we notice that its weight has increased. In the case that they are garden plants , it will depend on the type of soil that it is and the size of the plant itself, but to make sure it is always more advisable to add something more than what we would really put in.

In order to save water , it is highly advisable to install a drip irrigation system , which will slowly moisten both the soil and the substrate, allowing the roots to absorb it.

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How to water potted plants

Do you know how to water potted plants? There are up to three different systems of watering depending on the species. Take note!

Not all plants need the same amount of water, nor the same irrigation system. If in our section of cards we explained how much water each plant needs, now we explain the three methods that are usually used to water the pots .

Unlike garden plants, potted plants need more water because the substrate is limited and evaporates sooner. In addition, depending on the location we will also have to water more or less regularly.

Pot irrigation systems

1. Irrigation from above This
is the most common system and the one used by most plants. With a watering can, a glass or a bottle we apply the water directly on the substrate from above. It is important to avoid that the leaves or the flowers come into contact with the water, since they can spoil or favor the appearance of fungi.

2. By immersion
The pot is placed in the sink or in a bucket with water. It is a perfect system for epiphytes or orchids .

Immersion irrigation

3. Through the plate
This system makes the plant drink the amount it considers necessary through the roots . The water is poured directly on the plate of the pot and left for a few minutes until the plant is hydrated. Afterwards, the excess is discarded. It is ideal for bulbs or plants with stems or leaves that are sensitive to moisture.

Irrigation is best done first or late in the morning . The best way to measure the plants is to let the surface layer of the substrate dry between watering and watering. If we see that the leaves are limp or begin to turn yellow, we will have to increase the waterings slightly. If, on the contrary, we see that fungi appear or the leaves acquire a brown tone, it is that we are exceeding the waterings.

How many times should a plant be watered?

Irrigation is the contribution of water that is made to the plants so that they maintain their hydration and can properly carry out their vital processes.

Depending on the climate of the area in which we are, the season of the year, the drought cycles, the type of terrain, the variety of plant in question, or whether it is found in the interior or in the exterior of a house, we must water it more or less frequently. Therefore, we must be very careful with recommendations such as: water twice a week, water every three days; there are so many variables that by wanting to be methodical we can end the life of the plant.


To know if a plant needs water, it is best to touch the surface of the earth where it is located. If it is dry, try to open the surface a little to check the degree of humidity. If we cannot find it, we must provide it with water.

Another system that helps us to assess the water needs of the plant is to add a little water and observe how quickly or slowly it absorbs it. If you do it quickly, you have to continue adding small amounts until the upper part is damp. If, on the other hand, the water does not absorb quickly or does not even sink into the ground, it is that its humidity level is correct. All this always taking into account the geographical area in which we live, the existing humidity, air and sun conditions. If you live in a very dry and hot area, the surface layer of soil in the pots may dry out a lot and the incorporation of water produces an effect similar to that mentioned above when it already has a lot of water: it takes longer to absorb. In this case it does not mean that you already have enough water.

We must pay attention to all the plants that we have in the garden or on the terrace, not only those that are exposed to the sun. The passage of air or the type of soil also influences the loss of moisture from the plant.



Depending on the size of the plant or the pot in which it is located, we must make a greater or lesser contribution of water. A small container tends to dry faster than a large one. In the case of gardens, it must be taken into account that larger plants need to create more nutrients to feed themselves and, therefore, they need more water to maintain themselves.

It is convenient that, in the case of pots, we place a clay or metal seedling under the pot. In this way we will avoid rotting the plant and we will ensure that the roots can absorb the liquid element that has leaked in the watering. We will also prevent moisture spots from appearing on the ground, since the pots concentrate it in the lower part of it.



In all cases, it must be remembered that all pots must have a hole in the lower part to be able to expel any excess water.

We must also pay attention to the type of water we give to our plants. Limestone water is not good for plants, but if we have no other option, we can cancel its degree of acidity with lemon juice. The proportion is one lemon for every five liters of water.

It is also important that we control the water temperature, especially in indoor plants and in winter. It is recommended that it be warm and even somewhat hot since the contribution of very cold water can make the plant sick.

Tips on How to Water Your Tree

Learning how to water a tree is one of the best ways to keep it healthy and stress-free, especially during the hottest months of the year. But did you know that the most common watering mistake is actually too much water?

Whether it's too much or too little water, watering can be tricky if you don't know how. Follow this guide to ensure your Bios Urn® tree thrives .

 

Tips on how to water a tree

What time to water your tree
During a typically hot afternoon , up to half the water can be lost to evaporation. The best time to water is in the morning or at night, so the roots have a chance to absorb most of the water.

However, there is no magic schedule for watering trees . How often you should water will depend on the size of your tree, soil conditions, and weather conditions. Newly planted trees require much more water than established ones, more details on this are detailed below.

The best way to determine when your tree needs water is to check the soil. What you are looking for is moist soil, not soggy. In the absence of rain or moisture, check the soil with a garden trowel to a depth of two inches (5 cm). If the soil is dry to the touch, your tree needs water.

The amount of water
For well-established trees, the rule of thumb is generally 10 gallons of water (about 38 liters) for every inch (2.5 cm) of the tree's diameter. You can use a ruler at knee height to measure.

How to water a tree
Perhaps the most important element of irrigation when it comes to trees is the 'how'. Slow and deep is recommended , which is why drip lines are the preferred method of irrigation (although spraying from a garden hose will certainly work). Drip irrigation also loses less water through evaporation compared to sprinkler irrigation systems.

Deep watering allows the critical root zone to absorb adequate moisture. When setting up a drip line, make sure it extends to the entire area under the tree canopy and to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) if possible.

Consistency is key
Allowing the soil to dry out completely, or allowing it to soak up, will result in a stressed tree, and therefore more prone to disease and infestation. Keeping the soil constantly moist is essential for the health of the trees.

Choosing the right tree species
In regions where drought is typical, choose drought-tolerant species when planting new trees. Drought-tolerant trees are adapted to dry climates and will not only grow better, but also help you conserve water. Remember that you can use the Bios Urn® with the tree you want .

Newly planted trees
Young trees are still establishing their root systems and therefore need more water . Water newly planted trees once a day for the first two weeks after planting, and once a week thereafter during the growing season.

Remember to check the soil to make sure you are not over-watering. Once the roots begin to extend beyond the root ball, you can water on a normal schedule.

 

Mulch is your best friend
Mulch is a very effective way to keep the soil from drying out quickly , especially during excessive heat. Mulching 2-4 inches deep (5-10 cm) will help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.

 

Water all year
Don't forget to water your tree in winter during dry spells. Just because they are dormant does not mean that their trees are not growing. Water when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F (4.5ºC) and when there is no snow. Your trees will thank you later!

WhaleLife Indoor Watering Can for House Bonsai Plants Garden Flower Long Spout 40oz 1.4L 1/3 Gallon Small Modern Translucent Blue

 WhaleLife Indoor Watering Can for House Bonsai Plants Garden Flower Long Spout 40oz 1.4L 1/3 Gallon Small Modern Translucent Blue

•  Contracted Nordic Style: Fluent line design, chic aesthetic feeling, let you harvest happiness from it.
• Every Drop of Water Clearly Visible: Thickened PS resin pot body, firm and strong, transparent pot body design, water level is clearly visible, easy to control the water flow.
• Large Water Storage Capacity: The pot body has a large water storage capacity of 1.4L, which can reduce the trouble of frequent irrigation and lengthen the spout to make it easier to water.
• Comfortable and Easily Use: The master of fruity line supplies more comfortable, watering plant experience.
• Tip: It is not recommended to use corrosive spray, which may damage the kettle.

10 golden rules for watering.

To prevent your plants from wilting in summer, they need a lot of water. But how much or how often should they be watered? Is it better to pour the water above or below? Keep reading and you will find useful information for watering your plants.

rule no. 1: Maintain uniform humidity
Most plants depend on uniform humidity. However, drying before watering promotes plant root growth.

Rule no. 2: Water less often but thoroughly
In the flower bed, one or two watering sessions per week is usually sufficient: water less frequently, but with plenty of water rather than a little water often is better.

Rule no. 3: Water at dusk or first thing in the morning
When water cools the soil in the afternoon or night, it evaporates less than when the soil is warm during the day, and plants can get their water before the heat of the next day arrives.

Rule no. 4: Keep the leaves dry
Wet leaves turn into diseased leaves. If it stays damp overnight, it can lead to leaf mold. Leaves left wet in the sun can develop minor burn marks

Rule no. 5: Give the correct amount of water
Watering requirement means that enough water must reach the roots. Too little water often only covers the top inches of the soil - or not even reaching them at all, for example, when there is mulch covering the soil and too little irrigation. Irrigation requirement also means that crop plants are particularly dependent on uniformly moist soil especially until their crops are ripe for harvest (for example: the formation of roots and bulbs (carrots, potatoes), leaf (basil), heads (cauliflower, lettuce) or fruit (tomato and other fruits).

Rule no. 6: Give large amounts of water in parts
The water takes a moment to be absorbed by the earth. Before wasting precious water and letting it flow unused, it is best to repeatedly water in parts.

Rule no. 7: Water with a goal but distributed.
Always watering the same point of the root only one leads to the growth of the roots on one side and therefore to a poor absorption of nutrients in the soil. So you always have to water around the plant and distribute throughout the area.

Rule no. 8: Water in a way that saves water
Water as much as necessary and as little as possible. This is simplified with an automatic watering system with a humidity sensor - on the balcony and on the lawn.

Rule no. 9: Avoid water puddling
The puddled water suppresses the air that reaches the roots - the root cells suffocate without oxygen.

Rule no. 10: Use quality soil, rich in clay
Soil rich in clay minerals has better properties and can therefore hold water better and more evenly. In wet summers and winter, make sure the water drains well to prevent waterlogging.

5 mistakes you should not make when watering plants

Watering is a common task for all of us who have plants at home. But just because it's done frequently doesn't always mean it's done the right way. On many occasions mistakes are made due to ignorance. For this reason today I am going to emphasize this vital need. Here are some of the most common mistakes when watering plants . Surely we have all made at least one.

Treat all plants equally
One of the most common mistakes in beginners is treating all species the same. Plants have different needs for light, temperature, humidity, and water, among many other factors.
An illustrative example could be to imagine placing a plant such as hydrangea on the terrace , in the sunshine of July. If by a miracle it survives it will be by watering and spraying its leaves daily. However, any cactus in the same circumstances would perfectly withstand watering it only once a week.

Learn about the biology of your plants to know where to start.

All cacti and succulents are plants that need little water . Most aromatics, with the important exception of mints, also respond in a similar way. In the trees: acacias, pines or those of the genus "prunus" stand out from the rest in this regard.

Examples of plants that require little watering are in the following list.

• Plants with little need for irrigation
• Cactus and succulents : prickly pear, echeveria , aptenia, aloe, queen's hair , carpobrotus ...
• Aromatic : rosemary, lavender, sage, thyme, rockrose, santolina ...
• Creepers : bouganvillea, virgin vine , honeysuckle ...
• Herbaceous : portulaca, geranium, Chinese carnation, gazania, pennisetum ...
• Shrubs : rose bush, piracanta, yucca, oleander, lantana, hibiscus, durillo ...
• Indoor : poto, sansevieria, cheflera , drácena, aspidistra, tape, kentia ...
• Trees : almond , mimosa, holm oak, mulberry , cypress, thuja, olive , fig, strawberry tree ...

There are some species with ease to develop problems in the neck or base of the stem and others in the leaves. To avoid this, it is advisable to always water carefully, wetting the soil but not the plant. Some species are especially sensitive and must be watered by placing a dish of water under the pot . Remember to remove it, after a while the plant will have absorbed what is necessary. Some plants watered in this way are: clivias, cyclamen, spatifilos or African violets .

The acidophilic plants , however, have other hobbies. These demanding plants in acidic soils do not like tap water with too much lime , since the pH of the substrate rises. To solve it you can use rain or distilled water for irrigation. Another option is to counteract the alkaline effect with a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice.

Forget about watering the plants
It seems obvious to say that you have to water them with some frequency, but sometimes we forget that we have plants at home. They cannot ask us for water, and when we realize the leaves are already limp, wrinkled, yellow or in the worst case there are no leaves.

If you water manually, it is best to establish a routine so as not to neglect yourself . Weekends or early holidays are good times to tend to your plants, as you will be less busy. If you are very clueless, do the same as me and put a notice on the mobile calendar. But whatever you do, it doesn't matter if your plants go thirsty or get sick.

In case of prolonged absence, you are likely to find your plants in a sorry state, if you have not taken measures before. So that this does not happen, I recommend that you read the post " How to water plants in summer if you go on vacation ". If the situation is not too serious, there may be a solution.

To recover a plant that has lost all its leaves due to lack of water, water it abundantly. To do this, submerge the pot in a container with water until bubbles stop coming out and when removing it "cross your fingers". Hopefully your plant has reserves and you have noticed in time; being so, it can sprout again. Of course, do not do "the same job" again.

Automating the irrigation of your garden or terrace is the most successful option. It will relieve you of work and you can leave home without problems.

Do you want to free yourself from the routine of watering your plants? To do this, connect an automatic irrigation system to the tap on your terrace. In the photo you have an example of a simple but effective programmer. It has the built-in solenoid valve so you just have to connect it to the tap and distribute the irrigation pipes from there to the plants. You can find this same model on Amazon, click here or on the photo.

The hidrojardineras or self - watering pots are another alternative, perfect for indoor plants. You fill the tank that they incorporate and your guest takes care of himself to extract the water he needs.

In outdoor plants, water preferably first thing in the morning. In this way the water will be more used by its roots. In addition, using sprinklers or diffusers to water, it will be the most advisable to avoid fungi.

Always water with the same frequency
From what was stated in the previous point, you could ask yourself: does this mean that we must always water with the same frequency? The answer is a resounding no. This variable is conditioned, in addition to the cultivated species, by many other circumstances. Now I make a list for you so you know when you have to water more frequently.

Conditions in which you should increase watering

• In the warmer months they need more hydration, as this is when the leaves perspire more liquid and when there is greater evaporation in the soil.
• In periods of scarcity of rain you will have to water regularly to make up for its lack.
• High winds also dry out plants. In places with regular windows, it will be necessary to water more often.
• In the flowering and fruiting phases , in addition to nutrients, plants need a greater supply of water.
• If the substrate in the garden is sandy, you should water the plants frequently; this type of soil barely holds water.
• When the specimens are potted , the periodicity will be related to the size of the container . The smaller the pot, the more repeatedly you will have to re-water.
• The material of the container is also important. Clay pots are porous, unlike plastic ones, so the loss of water will always be greater.
• If your plant is oriented to full sun it will need more water than if it is in the shade or in a cooler place.

From the list you can draw your own conclusions and mark the most successful irrigation routines at all times. As you can see, they will never be fixed ... in summer you will hydrate frequently while in winter the irrigation will be almost nil . When in doubt, check the soil with your finger, if it is wet it is not necessary to water

Go over with the irrigation
Much more serious than watering little is watering too much , so when in doubt it is better to wait. Many more plants die from excess goodwill than from lack of water.



When watering excessively, the water covers all the spaces between the particles of the substrate, displacing all the air to the outside. The roots of the plant cannot breathe and die. The saturation of moisture in the soil can also cause the appearance of fungal diseases or nematodes that damage these roots. Careful!

The symptoms in the plant will be similar to those caused by the lack of water - the plant's fading and its leaves fall - so it is usually watered even more, aggravating the problem.

What should you do if you have spent watering?

Recovering a plant in these circumstances is more complicated than in the case of forgetting to water. If you have it in a pot, carefully remove it from it and wrap the root ball in newspaper to absorb all the excess water. Change the paper when you see that it is soaked, until all the liquid possible is extracted. Then let it dry well and don't water it for a while.

In the event that the plant continues to deteriorate, it is possible that the root has been infected by fungi. The matter would be complicated then, but you can treat with a fungicide. The fungicide Aliette (Fosetil-Al) works very well against " phytophthora ", I usually use it to treat conifers.

In "Treatment to control phytophthora (Phytophthora)" you have all the detailed information.

Another consequence of the repeated irrigation is the washing of nutrients in the substrate . Something especially worrisome in plants that are in containers. To correct this deficiency, it is interesting to add liquid fertilizer from time to time to irrigation - every 2 or 3 weeks would be fine. The appropriate dose is always provided by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Lack of proper drainage
Closely related to the previous point is the problem of water accumulation due to inappropriate drainage. To avoid this, make suitable holes in the pots before planting and always use the substrate indicated for each species. Cacti and succulents, for example, need loose soil as they are not very tolerant of humidity. In this case the most suitable is the sandy type that retains less water.

A good practice is to place tape at the bottom of the pot before filling with the planting substrate. In this way the excess liquid is isolated, thus facilitating the aeration of the roots.

Not removing the saucers with the residual water from the irrigation will probably cause rots. Leaving the dishes with water under the pots is only indicated for species that require environmental humidity. It is an alternative or complement to spraying the leaves on sensitive indoor plants. To do this correctly, the base of the pot should never come into contact with the water in the dish; it should settle, for example, on a layer of gravel.

As you can see, watering the plants is not as simple as it may seem. Not all are watered in the same way or with the same frequency. To top it all, external conditions also influence the equation. Only practice will provide you with the desired experience, but for now you have this little guide.

I hope that getting here has clarified some doubts, but also that you are hungry for more knowledge. If so, do not miss this other reading for example: "How to calculate the time to program automatic watering . " It will be very useful, whether you have a programmer or not, to better understand irrigation management.

AeroGarden Salsa Garden Seed Pod Kit, 6

 AeroGarden Salsa Garden Seed Pod Kit, 6

•  INCLUDES SALSA GARDEN SEED KIT - 3 pre-seeded Red Heirloom Cherry Tomato pods and 3 pre-seeded Jalapeno Pepper Grow Pod
• PLANT TO PLATE – Non-GMO seeds; No herbicides; No pesticides. Harvest herbs directly from the plant for use in your favorite recipes
• COMES WITH EVERYTHING - Also includes a 3 oz bottle of patented, specially formulated Liquid Nutrients, grow domes for optimal germination, and a Growing Guide with step by step instructions
• GERMINATION GUARANTEE - 100 Percent Germination Guarantee; if a Seed Pod doesn't sprout, we'll replace it for free
• WORKS WITH ANY AEROGARDEN - For use in all AeroGarden models

Seed preservation

Introduction

Usually the gardens on balconies and terraces are small. They are usually made up of several planters or one or a few cultivation tables. Therefore, the number of plants is small and the amount of seed that is needed to make the sowings each season is very little.

For example, an envelope of organic lettuce seed contains about 0.5 grams of seed. This means about 300 to 400 seeds. Although 2 to 3 seeds are often used to ensure the emergence of each plant we sow, the number of plants that can be obtained with an envelope is very high compared to the needs of a small urban farmer.

Regardless of whether we have bought the seed or have obtained it from the plants in our garden, there is always the need to conserve a part of the seed for future planting seasons.

What is the seed

In the vulgar language and sometimes also in the commercial language, the seed is "anything" that serves to reproduce a plant. For example, potato tubers or garlic cloves are often named after seeds, but if we speak properly, they are not seeds.

From a more strict and botanical point of view, seeds are the result of fertilization of the ovary of a female flower by pollen from another flower or from the same flower. The seeds are dry plant structures since they have a moisture content that is usually less than 10%. They are formed by an embryo, which are the cells that will give rise to the future plant, and by other tissues that have the function of protecting or feeding the embryo at the time of germination.

The seed is said to be a living being since, while it is viable, it breathes and maintains the ability to germinate. The germination of the seed will take place when there is moisture in the soil. In some species, to induce germination it is also necessary a more or less long period of cold or that the seed coat degrades to allow its hydration. This is not the case of vegetables, since only with humidity and an adequate temperature according to each species, it is enough to cause germination.

Feasibility

The viability of the seed is the ability to germinate and give rise to a new plant. Seeds can remain viable for a highly variable number of years, from one to 10 or more years. A batch of seeds does not suddenly lose its viability. The proportion of seeds capable of germinating progressively decreases over the years.

This decrease in viability is highly dependent on storage conditions and, therefore, it is difficult to say how many years the seed of a given species can be preserved. Despite this, in the following table we give an orientation of the average conservation time of different species:

Species
Years
Chard   
4
Celery   
5
Aubergine   
5
Pumpkin   
5
Onion   
1
Cabbages   
4
Spinach   
4
Pea   
3
Bean   
3
Bean   
4
Lettuce   
3
Corn   
two
Cantaloupe   
5
Turnip   
4
Pepper   
3
Cucumber   
5
Radish   
4
Carrot   
3
Tomatoes   
3

A viable seed is one that is capable of germinating and giving rise to a plant


The conservation

The seed cannot retain its germination capacity indefinitely. The maintenance of the viability of the seed depends a lot on the storage conditions. Horticultural seeds must be kept dry, in a cool place protected from light. We must follow the following tips:

The seed must be kept with the minimum possible humidity, if it has become damp we must let it dry in a tray. It is then stored in an airtight container to avoid re-wetting. To reduce humidity, silica gel can be added to the storage container.
The place of conservation must be cool, the refrigerator is an optimal space for most seeds as long as the container or bag is hermetically closed, otherwise it may be damaged.
In the container or bag we will write the date, the species and the origin of the seed.
When we want to use the seed after a long period of conservation, we can do a germination test to ensure its viability. It involves putting some seeds in several layers of damp paper, at a temperature of 20-25º (inside the house) and observing the germination after one or two weeks.

Method to germinate seeds faster

Today I want to share with you  a very easy, fast and great way to germinate seeds , a method that we have been using for a few years! Seed germination time is reduced by 70%, and the success rate is doubled .

This method is called pre-sprouting, or pre-germination in the book where we discovered it. All you need is a plastic or glass container with a lid. The seeds do not need light to take root.

It must be borne in mind that germination requires ideal temperature, darkness or humidity conditions.

How to germinate seeds faster.
How to make the seeds germinate before detail

Put a piece of kitchen paper in the bottom of the container, add water until the paper is completely wet, but there are no puddles of water.

• germinate seeds faster

Sprinkle the seeds in groups on the wet paper, close the lid, and put a note so that you remember what kind of seeds they are.

How to make seeds germinate before pot

Check them out the next day. If the seeds are very fresh, some will germinate in just 1 day! The quickest are from the cabbage family -  broccoli , kale,  cauliflower , etc., and lettuce. The slowest ones are bell pepper, aubergine,  fennel ,  celery , which can take more than 5 days. The rest, such as  tomato , beet, chard, pumpkin,  onion , will take about 3 days.

As soon as you see the roots coming out, plant them right away. If you let the roots grow too long, it will be difficult to separate them from the kitchen paper later.
Method to germinate seeds faster

It may seem difficult to pick up a small seed, but it is actually quite easy. You can use a toothpick, or just your fingers. Plant them shallow and water them carefully every day. It will take a couple of days for us to see the first little green leaves emerge. Now is the time to put them in the sun so that they grow strong and healthy!

This method has a great success rate, even when we have fresh seeds purchased from a good seed company, the germination rate is almost 100%.

Method to germinate seeds faster plant

It is an ideal method to see if your oldest seeds (approximately 2 years) are still alive. Healthy plants can be grown from cabbage or tomato seeds with more than 5 years, you can try any type of seed to see how it works.

Burpee Seed Starter Tray with Coir Pellets, One Size, 72 Cells

 Burpee Seed Starter Tray with Coir Pellets, One Size, 72 Cells

•  Burpee 72 cell complete seed starting kit comes with two 36 cell planting trays and one water reservoir tray
• 72 Burpee super growing pellets
• Two plant-o-gram diagrams to note which varieties were sown where
• Six 4" plant markers
• Expert tip: Place super growing pellets flat-side down, and add very warm water slowly for maximum expansion

Sprouting seeds and caring for seedlings

At first glance, a seed appears to be a small and simple thing, but hidden inside it is pure potential - the potential to grow into a beautiful, mature plant that can host beautiful flowers and delicious fruits.

Many of the foods we eat to survive and the medications we take to stay healthy come from plants that had humble beginnings as seeds.

How the seeds work
Inside this simple-looking seed you will find all the genetic information necessary to grow this plant throughout its life cycle. Whether a particular plant is intended to grow fruits, grains, or perhaps just oxygen, its destiny is in that little seed.

When a seed germinates, sprouts and begins to grow, nature kicks in and the life-sustaining processes within the plant begin. But for a seed to start life as a growing plant, it will take a little help.

The seeds of flowering plants (angiosperms) are divided into two distinct categories: monocots and dicots. This classification is based on a specific characteristic of a seedling.

Cotyledons are the first leaves that a young plant will grow and will act as a food source for seedlings until the first true leaves appear, when the plant begins the process of photosynthesis to provide carbohydrates for energy.

Monocots are classified as such because they only have one cotyledon (seed leaf) while dicots have two. Plant seeds classified as monocots include wheat, corn, sugar cane, and bamboo. Seeds classified as dicotyledonous include beans, tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.

A seed is essentially made up of three parts: the seed embryo, which is basically a baby plant that will grow and mature under favorable conditions, the endosperm that will provide the initial source of food and energy for the growing embryo, and the covering of the seed. - The hard outer shell that protects the seed until it is ready to grow.

Germination is the process in which a seed and its embryo go from a dormant state to an active and growing state. Successful seed germination depends on certain conditions that are provided. These conditions are internal and external and can vary from seed to seed. The most crucial external conditions are water, temperature, oxygen and, with certain seeds, even light or darkness.

Water and seeds
Water is essential because a mature seed is usually quite dry. The seeds absorb water through a process called soaking. As water accumulates in the seed, it causes the seed coat to swell and separate. Water also activates the breakdown of the endosperm, chemically turning it into a usable food source.

Temperature and seeds
Temperature affects the metabolism and growth rate of cells in the seed embryo. Seeds generally have a temperature range in which they germinate and germination is unlikely to occur above or below this range.

For most seeds this range is between 15 and 26 ° C, but some can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 4 ° C. Oxygen is required for proper seed germination. In the form of a gas, the oxygen will reside in the pore spaces of the soil and help the development of a much needed root system. If the seed is planted too deep or the soil becomes too full, the seed may not germinate.

Should I start the seeds indoors or outdoors?
When germinating seeds at home or in the greenhouse, the first thing to think about is whether a particular seed should be started and transplanted to another location or whether it should be sown directly into its permanent home, either in the ground or growing. medium Plants such as radishes and carrots should not be started indoors and transplanted later as this can lead to stunted growth which can lead to unfavorable results.

However, starting out on tomatoes, bell peppers, and cucumber seeds, just to name a few, is a great way to jump in early in the growing season outdoors or in an indoor garden. When choosing a seed germination medium, look for one that includes substrate as an initial seed mix. This type of growing medium is likely to have a moderate load of elemental fertilizer that will benefit newly germinated seedlings.

Seeds can be germinated in many different styles of trays and containers, so choose the type that best suits the project at hand. If you start just a few seeds, a simple, flat starter tray will work. When planting many seeds at the same time, it may be prudent to use trays that are divided into separate growing chambers to reduce the amount of transplantation needed as the plants grow.

Remember that most seeds germinate at medium room temperature, but some growers use heating pads under the trays.

Tips and Tricks for Seed Germination
Heat added to the growing medium can speed up the germination process, but for most seeds this is not necessary. The use of supplemental lighting, such as a T5 fluorescent lamp, can also help provide additional heat.

Although the seeds may not need light to germinate, the new seedlings will certainly need light; Therefore, it is a good idea to have a light source ready to go. We recommend not starting the seeds on a window sill because glass can change the intensity of sunlight and plants can stretch out and have legs.

We suggest slightly moistening the growing medium before planting the seeds. This will help ensure that the medium is not overly saturated or flooded and that the moisture is distributed evenly. Using the eraser side of a pencil or the tip of your little finger, carefully make tiny little discs in the middle at the desired planting depth.

Many plants require a depth of half an inch, but to find the correct planting depth for the type of seed being grown, see the back of the seed packet; In our experience, these suggested planting depths are accurate and by whom? If not followed, lower germination rates result. If planting in a flat tray, space the seeds at least 1 cm apart, in rows or in a grid pattern.

Gently drop one or two seeds into each fertilizer, cover lightly with growing medium (oxygen is important during germination, so don't overpack the medium), and lightly mist the entire tray with a portable water mixer.

Pre-moistened soil must remain moist enough for the seeds to germinate, but may sometimes need to be sprayed to maintain even moisture distribution.

Some growers use starter trays with plastic lids. This will keep the humidity around the seeds at higher than average ambient levels and can help increase the chance of successful germination. Be sure to check the seeds almost daily to maintain an ideal environment.

As the seedlings begin to emerge in the soil, there are some environmental aspects that should receive immediate attention: light intensity, humidity, and air flow. Seeds from different plants germinate in different time periods, so check the seed package for estimated germination times so you know when to be ready.

Lighting, humidity and air flow
Many seeds can sprout in total darkness, but once the plant goes through the ground, a sufficient source of light is essential. These first true leaves will need a light source to photosynthesize and create carbohydrates to support normal plant growth and, most importantly, root growth.

Without proper lighting, the early vegetative growth of a plant can be adversely affected and this can cause lasting problems that can lead to lower yields. Moisture can be helpful during the initial germination process, but when small seedlings start to grow, high humidity levels can spell disaster.

As internal processes burn the seedling's energy sources, the plant needs to release oxygen as a gas through its stomata, a process called perspiration.

As oxygen leaves the plant, the roots draw water and elemental nutrients. In a humid environment, the stomata will remain closed and the roots will not absorb water. If the growing medium is wet, as it probably will be, the water will have nowhere to go and the roots will likely suffocate and die. Airflow and humidity almost go hand in hand.

Good airflow through the plant canopy will encourage the flow of carbon dioxide to the leaves and then oxygen to the leaves, which is important for plants at all stages of growth. A small fan at medium or low heat can help keep the humidity and heat levels from any additional lighting low.

Seedling watering
For watering practices, be sure to keep the rooting medium moist but not too wet. Seedlings need water and running out for too long can cause serious damage, but if the medium stays too wet for too long it can affect root growth.

As the seedlings grow, they eventually deplete any nutrient load that the growing medium has to offer, so light fertilization with a nitrogen-based fertilizer may be necessary while waiting to transplant into a different or permanent container.

Thus, day after day, as the seedlings grow, with due care and attention, they come closer and closer to fulfilling their own destiny.

And as we wait, anxiously awaiting the literal fruits of our labor, it is important to remember that all the plants we grow have entered this life as something small, almost insignificant, that so many people call simply a seed.