AeroGarden Salsa Garden Seed Pod Kit, 6

 AeroGarden Salsa Garden Seed Pod Kit, 6

•  INCLUDES SALSA GARDEN SEED KIT - 3 pre-seeded Red Heirloom Cherry Tomato pods and 3 pre-seeded Jalapeno Pepper Grow Pod
• PLANT TO PLATE – Non-GMO seeds; No herbicides; No pesticides. Harvest herbs directly from the plant for use in your favorite recipes
• COMES WITH EVERYTHING - Also includes a 3 oz bottle of patented, specially formulated Liquid Nutrients, grow domes for optimal germination, and a Growing Guide with step by step instructions
• GERMINATION GUARANTEE - 100 Percent Germination Guarantee; if a Seed Pod doesn't sprout, we'll replace it for free
• WORKS WITH ANY AEROGARDEN - For use in all AeroGarden models

Seed preservation

Introduction

Usually the gardens on balconies and terraces are small. They are usually made up of several planters or one or a few cultivation tables. Therefore, the number of plants is small and the amount of seed that is needed to make the sowings each season is very little.

For example, an envelope of organic lettuce seed contains about 0.5 grams of seed. This means about 300 to 400 seeds. Although 2 to 3 seeds are often used to ensure the emergence of each plant we sow, the number of plants that can be obtained with an envelope is very high compared to the needs of a small urban farmer.

Regardless of whether we have bought the seed or have obtained it from the plants in our garden, there is always the need to conserve a part of the seed for future planting seasons.

What is the seed

In the vulgar language and sometimes also in the commercial language, the seed is "anything" that serves to reproduce a plant. For example, potato tubers or garlic cloves are often named after seeds, but if we speak properly, they are not seeds.

From a more strict and botanical point of view, seeds are the result of fertilization of the ovary of a female flower by pollen from another flower or from the same flower. The seeds are dry plant structures since they have a moisture content that is usually less than 10%. They are formed by an embryo, which are the cells that will give rise to the future plant, and by other tissues that have the function of protecting or feeding the embryo at the time of germination.

The seed is said to be a living being since, while it is viable, it breathes and maintains the ability to germinate. The germination of the seed will take place when there is moisture in the soil. In some species, to induce germination it is also necessary a more or less long period of cold or that the seed coat degrades to allow its hydration. This is not the case of vegetables, since only with humidity and an adequate temperature according to each species, it is enough to cause germination.

Feasibility

The viability of the seed is the ability to germinate and give rise to a new plant. Seeds can remain viable for a highly variable number of years, from one to 10 or more years. A batch of seeds does not suddenly lose its viability. The proportion of seeds capable of germinating progressively decreases over the years.

This decrease in viability is highly dependent on storage conditions and, therefore, it is difficult to say how many years the seed of a given species can be preserved. Despite this, in the following table we give an orientation of the average conservation time of different species:

Species
Years
Chard   
4
Celery   
5
Aubergine   
5
Pumpkin   
5
Onion   
1
Cabbages   
4
Spinach   
4
Pea   
3
Bean   
3
Bean   
4
Lettuce   
3
Corn   
two
Cantaloupe   
5
Turnip   
4
Pepper   
3
Cucumber   
5
Radish   
4
Carrot   
3
Tomatoes   
3

A viable seed is one that is capable of germinating and giving rise to a plant


The conservation

The seed cannot retain its germination capacity indefinitely. The maintenance of the viability of the seed depends a lot on the storage conditions. Horticultural seeds must be kept dry, in a cool place protected from light. We must follow the following tips:

The seed must be kept with the minimum possible humidity, if it has become damp we must let it dry in a tray. It is then stored in an airtight container to avoid re-wetting. To reduce humidity, silica gel can be added to the storage container.
The place of conservation must be cool, the refrigerator is an optimal space for most seeds as long as the container or bag is hermetically closed, otherwise it may be damaged.
In the container or bag we will write the date, the species and the origin of the seed.
When we want to use the seed after a long period of conservation, we can do a germination test to ensure its viability. It involves putting some seeds in several layers of damp paper, at a temperature of 20-25º (inside the house) and observing the germination after one or two weeks.

Method to germinate seeds faster

Today I want to share with you  a very easy, fast and great way to germinate seeds , a method that we have been using for a few years! Seed germination time is reduced by 70%, and the success rate is doubled .

This method is called pre-sprouting, or pre-germination in the book where we discovered it. All you need is a plastic or glass container with a lid. The seeds do not need light to take root.

It must be borne in mind that germination requires ideal temperature, darkness or humidity conditions.

How to germinate seeds faster.
How to make the seeds germinate before detail

Put a piece of kitchen paper in the bottom of the container, add water until the paper is completely wet, but there are no puddles of water.

• germinate seeds faster

Sprinkle the seeds in groups on the wet paper, close the lid, and put a note so that you remember what kind of seeds they are.

How to make seeds germinate before pot

Check them out the next day. If the seeds are very fresh, some will germinate in just 1 day! The quickest are from the cabbage family -  broccoli , kale,  cauliflower , etc., and lettuce. The slowest ones are bell pepper, aubergine,  fennel ,  celery , which can take more than 5 days. The rest, such as  tomato , beet, chard, pumpkin,  onion , will take about 3 days.

As soon as you see the roots coming out, plant them right away. If you let the roots grow too long, it will be difficult to separate them from the kitchen paper later.
Method to germinate seeds faster

It may seem difficult to pick up a small seed, but it is actually quite easy. You can use a toothpick, or just your fingers. Plant them shallow and water them carefully every day. It will take a couple of days for us to see the first little green leaves emerge. Now is the time to put them in the sun so that they grow strong and healthy!

This method has a great success rate, even when we have fresh seeds purchased from a good seed company, the germination rate is almost 100%.

Method to germinate seeds faster plant

It is an ideal method to see if your oldest seeds (approximately 2 years) are still alive. Healthy plants can be grown from cabbage or tomato seeds with more than 5 years, you can try any type of seed to see how it works.

Burpee Seed Starter Tray with Coir Pellets, One Size, 72 Cells

 Burpee Seed Starter Tray with Coir Pellets, One Size, 72 Cells

•  Burpee 72 cell complete seed starting kit comes with two 36 cell planting trays and one water reservoir tray
• 72 Burpee super growing pellets
• Two plant-o-gram diagrams to note which varieties were sown where
• Six 4" plant markers
• Expert tip: Place super growing pellets flat-side down, and add very warm water slowly for maximum expansion

Sprouting seeds and caring for seedlings

At first glance, a seed appears to be a small and simple thing, but hidden inside it is pure potential - the potential to grow into a beautiful, mature plant that can host beautiful flowers and delicious fruits.

Many of the foods we eat to survive and the medications we take to stay healthy come from plants that had humble beginnings as seeds.

How the seeds work
Inside this simple-looking seed you will find all the genetic information necessary to grow this plant throughout its life cycle. Whether a particular plant is intended to grow fruits, grains, or perhaps just oxygen, its destiny is in that little seed.

When a seed germinates, sprouts and begins to grow, nature kicks in and the life-sustaining processes within the plant begin. But for a seed to start life as a growing plant, it will take a little help.

The seeds of flowering plants (angiosperms) are divided into two distinct categories: monocots and dicots. This classification is based on a specific characteristic of a seedling.

Cotyledons are the first leaves that a young plant will grow and will act as a food source for seedlings until the first true leaves appear, when the plant begins the process of photosynthesis to provide carbohydrates for energy.

Monocots are classified as such because they only have one cotyledon (seed leaf) while dicots have two. Plant seeds classified as monocots include wheat, corn, sugar cane, and bamboo. Seeds classified as dicotyledonous include beans, tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.

A seed is essentially made up of three parts: the seed embryo, which is basically a baby plant that will grow and mature under favorable conditions, the endosperm that will provide the initial source of food and energy for the growing embryo, and the covering of the seed. - The hard outer shell that protects the seed until it is ready to grow.

Germination is the process in which a seed and its embryo go from a dormant state to an active and growing state. Successful seed germination depends on certain conditions that are provided. These conditions are internal and external and can vary from seed to seed. The most crucial external conditions are water, temperature, oxygen and, with certain seeds, even light or darkness.

Water and seeds
Water is essential because a mature seed is usually quite dry. The seeds absorb water through a process called soaking. As water accumulates in the seed, it causes the seed coat to swell and separate. Water also activates the breakdown of the endosperm, chemically turning it into a usable food source.

Temperature and seeds
Temperature affects the metabolism and growth rate of cells in the seed embryo. Seeds generally have a temperature range in which they germinate and germination is unlikely to occur above or below this range.

For most seeds this range is between 15 and 26 ° C, but some can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 4 ° C. Oxygen is required for proper seed germination. In the form of a gas, the oxygen will reside in the pore spaces of the soil and help the development of a much needed root system. If the seed is planted too deep or the soil becomes too full, the seed may not germinate.

Should I start the seeds indoors or outdoors?
When germinating seeds at home or in the greenhouse, the first thing to think about is whether a particular seed should be started and transplanted to another location or whether it should be sown directly into its permanent home, either in the ground or growing. medium Plants such as radishes and carrots should not be started indoors and transplanted later as this can lead to stunted growth which can lead to unfavorable results.

However, starting out on tomatoes, bell peppers, and cucumber seeds, just to name a few, is a great way to jump in early in the growing season outdoors or in an indoor garden. When choosing a seed germination medium, look for one that includes substrate as an initial seed mix. This type of growing medium is likely to have a moderate load of elemental fertilizer that will benefit newly germinated seedlings.

Seeds can be germinated in many different styles of trays and containers, so choose the type that best suits the project at hand. If you start just a few seeds, a simple, flat starter tray will work. When planting many seeds at the same time, it may be prudent to use trays that are divided into separate growing chambers to reduce the amount of transplantation needed as the plants grow.

Remember that most seeds germinate at medium room temperature, but some growers use heating pads under the trays.

Tips and Tricks for Seed Germination
Heat added to the growing medium can speed up the germination process, but for most seeds this is not necessary. The use of supplemental lighting, such as a T5 fluorescent lamp, can also help provide additional heat.

Although the seeds may not need light to germinate, the new seedlings will certainly need light; Therefore, it is a good idea to have a light source ready to go. We recommend not starting the seeds on a window sill because glass can change the intensity of sunlight and plants can stretch out and have legs.

We suggest slightly moistening the growing medium before planting the seeds. This will help ensure that the medium is not overly saturated or flooded and that the moisture is distributed evenly. Using the eraser side of a pencil or the tip of your little finger, carefully make tiny little discs in the middle at the desired planting depth.

Many plants require a depth of half an inch, but to find the correct planting depth for the type of seed being grown, see the back of the seed packet; In our experience, these suggested planting depths are accurate and by whom? If not followed, lower germination rates result. If planting in a flat tray, space the seeds at least 1 cm apart, in rows or in a grid pattern.

Gently drop one or two seeds into each fertilizer, cover lightly with growing medium (oxygen is important during germination, so don't overpack the medium), and lightly mist the entire tray with a portable water mixer.

Pre-moistened soil must remain moist enough for the seeds to germinate, but may sometimes need to be sprayed to maintain even moisture distribution.

Some growers use starter trays with plastic lids. This will keep the humidity around the seeds at higher than average ambient levels and can help increase the chance of successful germination. Be sure to check the seeds almost daily to maintain an ideal environment.

As the seedlings begin to emerge in the soil, there are some environmental aspects that should receive immediate attention: light intensity, humidity, and air flow. Seeds from different plants germinate in different time periods, so check the seed package for estimated germination times so you know when to be ready.

Lighting, humidity and air flow
Many seeds can sprout in total darkness, but once the plant goes through the ground, a sufficient source of light is essential. These first true leaves will need a light source to photosynthesize and create carbohydrates to support normal plant growth and, most importantly, root growth.

Without proper lighting, the early vegetative growth of a plant can be adversely affected and this can cause lasting problems that can lead to lower yields. Moisture can be helpful during the initial germination process, but when small seedlings start to grow, high humidity levels can spell disaster.

As internal processes burn the seedling's energy sources, the plant needs to release oxygen as a gas through its stomata, a process called perspiration.

As oxygen leaves the plant, the roots draw water and elemental nutrients. In a humid environment, the stomata will remain closed and the roots will not absorb water. If the growing medium is wet, as it probably will be, the water will have nowhere to go and the roots will likely suffocate and die. Airflow and humidity almost go hand in hand.

Good airflow through the plant canopy will encourage the flow of carbon dioxide to the leaves and then oxygen to the leaves, which is important for plants at all stages of growth. A small fan at medium or low heat can help keep the humidity and heat levels from any additional lighting low.

Seedling watering
For watering practices, be sure to keep the rooting medium moist but not too wet. Seedlings need water and running out for too long can cause serious damage, but if the medium stays too wet for too long it can affect root growth.

As the seedlings grow, they eventually deplete any nutrient load that the growing medium has to offer, so light fertilization with a nitrogen-based fertilizer may be necessary while waiting to transplant into a different or permanent container.

Thus, day after day, as the seedlings grow, with due care and attention, they come closer and closer to fulfilling their own destiny.

And as we wait, anxiously awaiting the literal fruits of our labor, it is important to remember that all the plants we grow have entered this life as something small, almost insignificant, that so many people call simply a seed.

AeroGarden Heirloom Salad Greens Seed Pod Kit, 3

 AeroGarden Heirloom Salad Greens Seed Pod Kit, 3

•  INCLUDES SALAD GREENS SEED KIT - 3 pre-seeded Grow Pods, featuring gourmet lettuce varieties: Black Seeded Simpson (1), Deer Tongue (1) and Parris Island (1)
• PLANT TO PLATE – Non-GMO seeds; No herbicides; No pesticides. Harvest lettuce directly from your AeroGarden for the freshest salad possible.
• COMES WITH EVERYTHING - Also includes a 3 oz bottle of patented, specially formulated Liquid Nutrients, grow domes for optimal germination, and a Growing Guide with step by step instructions.
• GERMINATION GUARANTEE - 100 Percent Germination Guarantee; if a Seed Pod doesn't sprout, we'll replace it for free.
• WORKS WITH ANY AEROGARDEN - For use in all AeroGarden models.

Necessary environment for proper seed germination

It is interesting to know how seeds germinate and grow and develop into healthy seedlings to establish a successful crop. Few decisions are more important to successful vegetable production than the selection of an appropriate

The seeds must be of high quality, clean, and purchased from a reputable seed company. With very few exceptions, it is a requirement that certified organic growers use only certified organic seeds and seedlings.

All well-developed seeds contain an embryo and in most plant species a food reserve wrapped in a cuticle that covers the seed. The seeds generally "wake up" and germinate well when the soil is moist and the temperature conditions are favorable for them to grow. But not all seeds have the same germination requirements, so it is important to know what each type of seed needs.

Temperature, humidity, oxygen and light conditions must be suitable for the seeds to germinate. All seeds have optimal temperature ranges for germination (Table 1). The minimum temperature is the lowest temperature required for the seeds to germinate effectively. The maximum is the highest temperature at which they can germinate properly. Any temperature above or below these can damage or cause the seeds to revert to a resting state. When temperatures are optimal, germination is fast and uniform.

All seeds need adequate moisture and oxygen to germinate. It is very important that there is good contact between the seed and the soil. To plant directly in the ground, a seedbed with a fine-textured soil that does not compact too much is recommended. For greenhouse seedlings the growing medium must be soilless, but moist and fluffy. The soil or growing medium must have enough moisture so that the seeds can absorb the water to begin the germination process. Like any other living organism, seeds also need oxygen to breathe, and the oxygen comes from the air that circulates in the soil when it is not compact or too humid.

Not all seeds have the same light requirements. Most seeds germinate best under dark conditions, and light can prevent germination. However, some others need light to germinate. But once the seeds have germinated and emerged from the soil or growing medium as seedlings, they all need sunlight to grow.


TABLE 1.- OPTIMAL SOIL TEMPERATURES FOR THE GERMINATION OF VEGETABLES
Growing vegetables    Minimum (° C)    Optimal Range (° C)    Optima (° C)    Maximum (° C)
Beetroot    4    10-29    29    29
Beans    fifteen    15-29    26    35
Cabbage    4    7-35    29    37
Cauliflower    4    7-29    26    37
Celery    4    15-21    twenty-one    29
Chard    4    10-29    29    35
Cucumber    fifteen    15-35    35    40
Eggplant    fifteen    23-32    29    35
Lettuce    1    4-26    2. 3    29
Cantaloupe    fifteen    23-35    32    37
Onion    1    10-35    2. 3    35
Parsley    4    10-29    2. 3    32
Pea    4    4-23    2. 3    29
chili    fifteen    18-35    29    35
Pumpkin    fifteen    21-32    32    37
Spinach    1    7-23    twenty-one    29
Butternut squash    fifteen    21-35    35    37
Sweet corn    10    15-35    35    40
Tomatoes    10    21-35    29    35

Germination management for seedling development

Germination test on old seeds

Seeds are generally stored from one year to the next and if stored incorrectly or for too many years, they can lose vigor and germinate poorly when planted. There is a very simple germination test that can determine whether stored seeds are viable. The test consists of taking a sample, about 25 seeds, gently wrapping them in a damp paper towel without being soaked for five to ten days. After those days have passed, unwrap the paper towel and count how many seeds have germinated; if they are less than 85 to 90%, it is better to discard them and throw away the rest of the stored seeds, buy new seeds.

Uniform germination

We know that seeds need proper conditions to germinate quickly. Whether the seeds are planted in trays in the greenhouses or directly in the field, the goal is for all the seeds to germinate at the same or close to the same time and grow at the same rate. A uniform transplant tray is easier to handle and will lead to a better harvest. Uneven germination due to slow growth, differences in soil moisture or temperatures, or differences in depth when planting seeds can result in seedlings of different sizes, half will be ready to transplant directly into the ground and the other half will be too small, with the roots curled up without the roots easily coming out of their cells.

In the greenhouse, one way to achieve rapid and uniform germination is to use the germination mats underneath the trays. These mats will allow you to set the temperature according to the requirements of the seeds. Make sure to provide optimal temperatures for crops. Providing good oxygen circulation to the seedlings during germination will help them control disease as they begin to grow during this early stage of growth.

We cannot control field conditions like we can inside greenhouses, but we can still take steps to ensure that seeds planted directly in the field germinate evenly. A fine-textured soil bed provides good seed growth conditions, good soil-seed contact, and the ability to plant them at a uniform depth. Planted when soil temperatures are near optimal will speed germination and seedling emergence. Sometimes in the rush to sow in the spring, the seeds are sown in soils that are still very cold. This can result in slow germination, weak and diseased seedlings, and their death. It is better to delay planting until the soils have warmed up.


Seedling development

The optimum temperature for seedling growth may be different from the optimum temperature for germination. In Table 2 the range shown temperature day and night that are best for the growth of seedlings in a greenhouse where they can control temperatures. Lower temperatures generally cause seedling growth to be slower and higher temperatures make it faster.

All seedlings need plenty of light to grow. If the light levels are low or if the seedlings are too crowded, the stems become very long as the plants seek more light which results in weak and elongated transplants. If the light levels are low in the greenhouses consider adding supplemental lights to have a better light level for the seedlings.

All crops need an acclimatization period before transplanting them from the greenhouse to the field or they will be damaged by adverse conditions. To acclimatize the seedlings, they are gradually exposed to the conditions they will have directly in the field. Most transplants can be acclimatized by gradually reducing the temperature in the greenhouse and / or reducing watering. The seedlings that are acclimatized in this way will be in a better condition to withstand the transplant and to continue growing without interruption directly in the field.

TABLE 2.- TEMPERATURE AND TIME REQUIRED FOR THE GROWTH OF THE SEEDLINGS.
Growing vegetables    Day (° C)    Night (° C)    Time (weeks)
Broccoli    15-21    10-15    5-7
Cabbage    15-21    10-15    5-7
Cauliflower    15-21    10-15    5-7
Celery    18-23    15-18    10-12
Cucumber    21-23    15-18    3-4
Eggplant    21-26    18-21    6-8
Lettuce    12-18    10-12    5-7
Cantaloupe    21-26    18-21    3-4
Onion    15-18    55-15    10-12
chili    18-23    15-18    6-8
Butternut squash    21-23    15-18    3-4
Tomatoes    18-23    15-18    5-7