Union 63182 Elephant Watering Can, 2 Quarts, 0.5 Gallons, Gray, Novelty Indoor Watering Can

 Union 63182 Elephant Watering Can, 2 Quarts, 0.5 Gallons, Gray, Novelty Indoor Watering Can

•  Easy fill rear entry port
• Made of weather resistant plastic
• Long trunk which helps in watering plants
• Novelty watering can favorite. Made in usa
• Happiest elephant watering can on the market

How to water potted plants

Do you know how to water potted plants? There are up to three different systems of watering depending on the species. Take note!

Not all plants need the same amount of water, nor the same irrigation system. If in our section of cards we explained how much water each plant needs, now we explain the three methods that are usually used to water the pots .

Unlike garden plants, potted plants need more water because the substrate is limited and evaporates sooner. In addition, depending on the location we will also have to water more or less regularly.

Pot irrigation systems

1. Irrigation from above This
is the most common system and the one used by most plants. With a watering can, a glass or a bottle we apply the water directly on the substrate from above. It is important to avoid that the leaves or the flowers come into contact with the water, since they can spoil or favor the appearance of fungi.

2. By immersion
The pot is placed in the sink or in a bucket with water. It is a perfect system for epiphytes or orchids .

Immersion irrigation

3. Through the plate
This system makes the plant drink the amount it considers necessary through the roots . The water is poured directly on the plate of the pot and left for a few minutes until the plant is hydrated. Afterwards, the excess is discarded. It is ideal for bulbs or plants with stems or leaves that are sensitive to moisture.

Irrigation is best done first or late in the morning . The best way to measure the plants is to let the surface layer of the substrate dry between watering and watering. If we see that the leaves are limp or begin to turn yellow, we will have to increase the waterings slightly. If, on the contrary, we see that fungi appear or the leaves acquire a brown tone, it is that we are exceeding the waterings.

How many times should a plant be watered?

Irrigation is the contribution of water that is made to the plants so that they maintain their hydration and can properly carry out their vital processes.

Depending on the climate of the area in which we are, the season of the year, the drought cycles, the type of terrain, the variety of plant in question, or whether it is found in the interior or in the exterior of a house, we must water it more or less frequently. Therefore, we must be very careful with recommendations such as: water twice a week, water every three days; there are so many variables that by wanting to be methodical we can end the life of the plant.


To know if a plant needs water, it is best to touch the surface of the earth where it is located. If it is dry, try to open the surface a little to check the degree of humidity. If we cannot find it, we must provide it with water.

Another system that helps us to assess the water needs of the plant is to add a little water and observe how quickly or slowly it absorbs it. If you do it quickly, you have to continue adding small amounts until the upper part is damp. If, on the other hand, the water does not absorb quickly or does not even sink into the ground, it is that its humidity level is correct. All this always taking into account the geographical area in which we live, the existing humidity, air and sun conditions. If you live in a very dry and hot area, the surface layer of soil in the pots may dry out a lot and the incorporation of water produces an effect similar to that mentioned above when it already has a lot of water: it takes longer to absorb. In this case it does not mean that you already have enough water.

We must pay attention to all the plants that we have in the garden or on the terrace, not only those that are exposed to the sun. The passage of air or the type of soil also influences the loss of moisture from the plant.



Depending on the size of the plant or the pot in which it is located, we must make a greater or lesser contribution of water. A small container tends to dry faster than a large one. In the case of gardens, it must be taken into account that larger plants need to create more nutrients to feed themselves and, therefore, they need more water to maintain themselves.

It is convenient that, in the case of pots, we place a clay or metal seedling under the pot. In this way we will avoid rotting the plant and we will ensure that the roots can absorb the liquid element that has leaked in the watering. We will also prevent moisture spots from appearing on the ground, since the pots concentrate it in the lower part of it.



In all cases, it must be remembered that all pots must have a hole in the lower part to be able to expel any excess water.

We must also pay attention to the type of water we give to our plants. Limestone water is not good for plants, but if we have no other option, we can cancel its degree of acidity with lemon juice. The proportion is one lemon for every five liters of water.

It is also important that we control the water temperature, especially in indoor plants and in winter. It is recommended that it be warm and even somewhat hot since the contribution of very cold water can make the plant sick.

Tips on How to Water Your Tree

Learning how to water a tree is one of the best ways to keep it healthy and stress-free, especially during the hottest months of the year. But did you know that the most common watering mistake is actually too much water?

Whether it's too much or too little water, watering can be tricky if you don't know how. Follow this guide to ensure your Bios Urn® tree thrives .

 

Tips on how to water a tree

What time to water your tree
During a typically hot afternoon , up to half the water can be lost to evaporation. The best time to water is in the morning or at night, so the roots have a chance to absorb most of the water.

However, there is no magic schedule for watering trees . How often you should water will depend on the size of your tree, soil conditions, and weather conditions. Newly planted trees require much more water than established ones, more details on this are detailed below.

The best way to determine when your tree needs water is to check the soil. What you are looking for is moist soil, not soggy. In the absence of rain or moisture, check the soil with a garden trowel to a depth of two inches (5 cm). If the soil is dry to the touch, your tree needs water.

The amount of water
For well-established trees, the rule of thumb is generally 10 gallons of water (about 38 liters) for every inch (2.5 cm) of the tree's diameter. You can use a ruler at knee height to measure.

How to water a tree
Perhaps the most important element of irrigation when it comes to trees is the 'how'. Slow and deep is recommended , which is why drip lines are the preferred method of irrigation (although spraying from a garden hose will certainly work). Drip irrigation also loses less water through evaporation compared to sprinkler irrigation systems.

Deep watering allows the critical root zone to absorb adequate moisture. When setting up a drip line, make sure it extends to the entire area under the tree canopy and to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) if possible.

Consistency is key
Allowing the soil to dry out completely, or allowing it to soak up, will result in a stressed tree, and therefore more prone to disease and infestation. Keeping the soil constantly moist is essential for the health of the trees.

Choosing the right tree species
In regions where drought is typical, choose drought-tolerant species when planting new trees. Drought-tolerant trees are adapted to dry climates and will not only grow better, but also help you conserve water. Remember that you can use the Bios Urn® with the tree you want .

Newly planted trees
Young trees are still establishing their root systems and therefore need more water . Water newly planted trees once a day for the first two weeks after planting, and once a week thereafter during the growing season.

Remember to check the soil to make sure you are not over-watering. Once the roots begin to extend beyond the root ball, you can water on a normal schedule.

 

Mulch is your best friend
Mulch is a very effective way to keep the soil from drying out quickly , especially during excessive heat. Mulching 2-4 inches deep (5-10 cm) will help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.

 

Water all year
Don't forget to water your tree in winter during dry spells. Just because they are dormant does not mean that their trees are not growing. Water when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F (4.5ºC) and when there is no snow. Your trees will thank you later!

WhaleLife Indoor Watering Can for House Bonsai Plants Garden Flower Long Spout 40oz 1.4L 1/3 Gallon Small Modern Translucent Blue

 WhaleLife Indoor Watering Can for House Bonsai Plants Garden Flower Long Spout 40oz 1.4L 1/3 Gallon Small Modern Translucent Blue

•  Contracted Nordic Style: Fluent line design, chic aesthetic feeling, let you harvest happiness from it.
• Every Drop of Water Clearly Visible: Thickened PS resin pot body, firm and strong, transparent pot body design, water level is clearly visible, easy to control the water flow.
• Large Water Storage Capacity: The pot body has a large water storage capacity of 1.4L, which can reduce the trouble of frequent irrigation and lengthen the spout to make it easier to water.
• Comfortable and Easily Use: The master of fruity line supplies more comfortable, watering plant experience.
• Tip: It is not recommended to use corrosive spray, which may damage the kettle.

10 golden rules for watering.

To prevent your plants from wilting in summer, they need a lot of water. But how much or how often should they be watered? Is it better to pour the water above or below? Keep reading and you will find useful information for watering your plants.

rule no. 1: Maintain uniform humidity
Most plants depend on uniform humidity. However, drying before watering promotes plant root growth.

Rule no. 2: Water less often but thoroughly
In the flower bed, one or two watering sessions per week is usually sufficient: water less frequently, but with plenty of water rather than a little water often is better.

Rule no. 3: Water at dusk or first thing in the morning
When water cools the soil in the afternoon or night, it evaporates less than when the soil is warm during the day, and plants can get their water before the heat of the next day arrives.

Rule no. 4: Keep the leaves dry
Wet leaves turn into diseased leaves. If it stays damp overnight, it can lead to leaf mold. Leaves left wet in the sun can develop minor burn marks

Rule no. 5: Give the correct amount of water
Watering requirement means that enough water must reach the roots. Too little water often only covers the top inches of the soil - or not even reaching them at all, for example, when there is mulch covering the soil and too little irrigation. Irrigation requirement also means that crop plants are particularly dependent on uniformly moist soil especially until their crops are ripe for harvest (for example: the formation of roots and bulbs (carrots, potatoes), leaf (basil), heads (cauliflower, lettuce) or fruit (tomato and other fruits).

Rule no. 6: Give large amounts of water in parts
The water takes a moment to be absorbed by the earth. Before wasting precious water and letting it flow unused, it is best to repeatedly water in parts.

Rule no. 7: Water with a goal but distributed.
Always watering the same point of the root only one leads to the growth of the roots on one side and therefore to a poor absorption of nutrients in the soil. So you always have to water around the plant and distribute throughout the area.

Rule no. 8: Water in a way that saves water
Water as much as necessary and as little as possible. This is simplified with an automatic watering system with a humidity sensor - on the balcony and on the lawn.

Rule no. 9: Avoid water puddling
The puddled water suppresses the air that reaches the roots - the root cells suffocate without oxygen.

Rule no. 10: Use quality soil, rich in clay
Soil rich in clay minerals has better properties and can therefore hold water better and more evenly. In wet summers and winter, make sure the water drains well to prevent waterlogging.

5 mistakes you should not make when watering plants

Watering is a common task for all of us who have plants at home. But just because it's done frequently doesn't always mean it's done the right way. On many occasions mistakes are made due to ignorance. For this reason today I am going to emphasize this vital need. Here are some of the most common mistakes when watering plants . Surely we have all made at least one.

Treat all plants equally
One of the most common mistakes in beginners is treating all species the same. Plants have different needs for light, temperature, humidity, and water, among many other factors.
An illustrative example could be to imagine placing a plant such as hydrangea on the terrace , in the sunshine of July. If by a miracle it survives it will be by watering and spraying its leaves daily. However, any cactus in the same circumstances would perfectly withstand watering it only once a week.

Learn about the biology of your plants to know where to start.

All cacti and succulents are plants that need little water . Most aromatics, with the important exception of mints, also respond in a similar way. In the trees: acacias, pines or those of the genus "prunus" stand out from the rest in this regard.

Examples of plants that require little watering are in the following list.

• Plants with little need for irrigation
• Cactus and succulents : prickly pear, echeveria , aptenia, aloe, queen's hair , carpobrotus ...
• Aromatic : rosemary, lavender, sage, thyme, rockrose, santolina ...
• Creepers : bouganvillea, virgin vine , honeysuckle ...
• Herbaceous : portulaca, geranium, Chinese carnation, gazania, pennisetum ...
• Shrubs : rose bush, piracanta, yucca, oleander, lantana, hibiscus, durillo ...
• Indoor : poto, sansevieria, cheflera , drácena, aspidistra, tape, kentia ...
• Trees : almond , mimosa, holm oak, mulberry , cypress, thuja, olive , fig, strawberry tree ...

There are some species with ease to develop problems in the neck or base of the stem and others in the leaves. To avoid this, it is advisable to always water carefully, wetting the soil but not the plant. Some species are especially sensitive and must be watered by placing a dish of water under the pot . Remember to remove it, after a while the plant will have absorbed what is necessary. Some plants watered in this way are: clivias, cyclamen, spatifilos or African violets .

The acidophilic plants , however, have other hobbies. These demanding plants in acidic soils do not like tap water with too much lime , since the pH of the substrate rises. To solve it you can use rain or distilled water for irrigation. Another option is to counteract the alkaline effect with a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice.

Forget about watering the plants
It seems obvious to say that you have to water them with some frequency, but sometimes we forget that we have plants at home. They cannot ask us for water, and when we realize the leaves are already limp, wrinkled, yellow or in the worst case there are no leaves.

If you water manually, it is best to establish a routine so as not to neglect yourself . Weekends or early holidays are good times to tend to your plants, as you will be less busy. If you are very clueless, do the same as me and put a notice on the mobile calendar. But whatever you do, it doesn't matter if your plants go thirsty or get sick.

In case of prolonged absence, you are likely to find your plants in a sorry state, if you have not taken measures before. So that this does not happen, I recommend that you read the post " How to water plants in summer if you go on vacation ". If the situation is not too serious, there may be a solution.

To recover a plant that has lost all its leaves due to lack of water, water it abundantly. To do this, submerge the pot in a container with water until bubbles stop coming out and when removing it "cross your fingers". Hopefully your plant has reserves and you have noticed in time; being so, it can sprout again. Of course, do not do "the same job" again.

Automating the irrigation of your garden or terrace is the most successful option. It will relieve you of work and you can leave home without problems.

Do you want to free yourself from the routine of watering your plants? To do this, connect an automatic irrigation system to the tap on your terrace. In the photo you have an example of a simple but effective programmer. It has the built-in solenoid valve so you just have to connect it to the tap and distribute the irrigation pipes from there to the plants. You can find this same model on Amazon, click here or on the photo.

The hidrojardineras or self - watering pots are another alternative, perfect for indoor plants. You fill the tank that they incorporate and your guest takes care of himself to extract the water he needs.

In outdoor plants, water preferably first thing in the morning. In this way the water will be more used by its roots. In addition, using sprinklers or diffusers to water, it will be the most advisable to avoid fungi.

Always water with the same frequency
From what was stated in the previous point, you could ask yourself: does this mean that we must always water with the same frequency? The answer is a resounding no. This variable is conditioned, in addition to the cultivated species, by many other circumstances. Now I make a list for you so you know when you have to water more frequently.

Conditions in which you should increase watering

• In the warmer months they need more hydration, as this is when the leaves perspire more liquid and when there is greater evaporation in the soil.
• In periods of scarcity of rain you will have to water regularly to make up for its lack.
• High winds also dry out plants. In places with regular windows, it will be necessary to water more often.
• In the flowering and fruiting phases , in addition to nutrients, plants need a greater supply of water.
• If the substrate in the garden is sandy, you should water the plants frequently; this type of soil barely holds water.
• When the specimens are potted , the periodicity will be related to the size of the container . The smaller the pot, the more repeatedly you will have to re-water.
• The material of the container is also important. Clay pots are porous, unlike plastic ones, so the loss of water will always be greater.
• If your plant is oriented to full sun it will need more water than if it is in the shade or in a cooler place.

From the list you can draw your own conclusions and mark the most successful irrigation routines at all times. As you can see, they will never be fixed ... in summer you will hydrate frequently while in winter the irrigation will be almost nil . When in doubt, check the soil with your finger, if it is wet it is not necessary to water

Go over with the irrigation
Much more serious than watering little is watering too much , so when in doubt it is better to wait. Many more plants die from excess goodwill than from lack of water.



When watering excessively, the water covers all the spaces between the particles of the substrate, displacing all the air to the outside. The roots of the plant cannot breathe and die. The saturation of moisture in the soil can also cause the appearance of fungal diseases or nematodes that damage these roots. Careful!

The symptoms in the plant will be similar to those caused by the lack of water - the plant's fading and its leaves fall - so it is usually watered even more, aggravating the problem.

What should you do if you have spent watering?

Recovering a plant in these circumstances is more complicated than in the case of forgetting to water. If you have it in a pot, carefully remove it from it and wrap the root ball in newspaper to absorb all the excess water. Change the paper when you see that it is soaked, until all the liquid possible is extracted. Then let it dry well and don't water it for a while.

In the event that the plant continues to deteriorate, it is possible that the root has been infected by fungi. The matter would be complicated then, but you can treat with a fungicide. The fungicide Aliette (Fosetil-Al) works very well against " phytophthora ", I usually use it to treat conifers.

In "Treatment to control phytophthora (Phytophthora)" you have all the detailed information.

Another consequence of the repeated irrigation is the washing of nutrients in the substrate . Something especially worrisome in plants that are in containers. To correct this deficiency, it is interesting to add liquid fertilizer from time to time to irrigation - every 2 or 3 weeks would be fine. The appropriate dose is always provided by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Lack of proper drainage
Closely related to the previous point is the problem of water accumulation due to inappropriate drainage. To avoid this, make suitable holes in the pots before planting and always use the substrate indicated for each species. Cacti and succulents, for example, need loose soil as they are not very tolerant of humidity. In this case the most suitable is the sandy type that retains less water.

A good practice is to place tape at the bottom of the pot before filling with the planting substrate. In this way the excess liquid is isolated, thus facilitating the aeration of the roots.

Not removing the saucers with the residual water from the irrigation will probably cause rots. Leaving the dishes with water under the pots is only indicated for species that require environmental humidity. It is an alternative or complement to spraying the leaves on sensitive indoor plants. To do this correctly, the base of the pot should never come into contact with the water in the dish; it should settle, for example, on a layer of gravel.

As you can see, watering the plants is not as simple as it may seem. Not all are watered in the same way or with the same frequency. To top it all, external conditions also influence the equation. Only practice will provide you with the desired experience, but for now you have this little guide.

I hope that getting here has clarified some doubts, but also that you are hungry for more knowledge. If so, do not miss this other reading for example: "How to calculate the time to program automatic watering . " It will be very useful, whether you have a programmer or not, to better understand irrigation management.

AeroGarden Salsa Garden Seed Pod Kit, 6

 AeroGarden Salsa Garden Seed Pod Kit, 6

•  INCLUDES SALSA GARDEN SEED KIT - 3 pre-seeded Red Heirloom Cherry Tomato pods and 3 pre-seeded Jalapeno Pepper Grow Pod
• PLANT TO PLATE – Non-GMO seeds; No herbicides; No pesticides. Harvest herbs directly from the plant for use in your favorite recipes
• COMES WITH EVERYTHING - Also includes a 3 oz bottle of patented, specially formulated Liquid Nutrients, grow domes for optimal germination, and a Growing Guide with step by step instructions
• GERMINATION GUARANTEE - 100 Percent Germination Guarantee; if a Seed Pod doesn't sprout, we'll replace it for free
• WORKS WITH ANY AEROGARDEN - For use in all AeroGarden models

Seed preservation

Introduction

Usually the gardens on balconies and terraces are small. They are usually made up of several planters or one or a few cultivation tables. Therefore, the number of plants is small and the amount of seed that is needed to make the sowings each season is very little.

For example, an envelope of organic lettuce seed contains about 0.5 grams of seed. This means about 300 to 400 seeds. Although 2 to 3 seeds are often used to ensure the emergence of each plant we sow, the number of plants that can be obtained with an envelope is very high compared to the needs of a small urban farmer.

Regardless of whether we have bought the seed or have obtained it from the plants in our garden, there is always the need to conserve a part of the seed for future planting seasons.

What is the seed

In the vulgar language and sometimes also in the commercial language, the seed is "anything" that serves to reproduce a plant. For example, potato tubers or garlic cloves are often named after seeds, but if we speak properly, they are not seeds.

From a more strict and botanical point of view, seeds are the result of fertilization of the ovary of a female flower by pollen from another flower or from the same flower. The seeds are dry plant structures since they have a moisture content that is usually less than 10%. They are formed by an embryo, which are the cells that will give rise to the future plant, and by other tissues that have the function of protecting or feeding the embryo at the time of germination.

The seed is said to be a living being since, while it is viable, it breathes and maintains the ability to germinate. The germination of the seed will take place when there is moisture in the soil. In some species, to induce germination it is also necessary a more or less long period of cold or that the seed coat degrades to allow its hydration. This is not the case of vegetables, since only with humidity and an adequate temperature according to each species, it is enough to cause germination.

Feasibility

The viability of the seed is the ability to germinate and give rise to a new plant. Seeds can remain viable for a highly variable number of years, from one to 10 or more years. A batch of seeds does not suddenly lose its viability. The proportion of seeds capable of germinating progressively decreases over the years.

This decrease in viability is highly dependent on storage conditions and, therefore, it is difficult to say how many years the seed of a given species can be preserved. Despite this, in the following table we give an orientation of the average conservation time of different species:

Species
Years
Chard   
4
Celery   
5
Aubergine   
5
Pumpkin   
5
Onion   
1
Cabbages   
4
Spinach   
4
Pea   
3
Bean   
3
Bean   
4
Lettuce   
3
Corn   
two
Cantaloupe   
5
Turnip   
4
Pepper   
3
Cucumber   
5
Radish   
4
Carrot   
3
Tomatoes   
3

A viable seed is one that is capable of germinating and giving rise to a plant


The conservation

The seed cannot retain its germination capacity indefinitely. The maintenance of the viability of the seed depends a lot on the storage conditions. Horticultural seeds must be kept dry, in a cool place protected from light. We must follow the following tips:

The seed must be kept with the minimum possible humidity, if it has become damp we must let it dry in a tray. It is then stored in an airtight container to avoid re-wetting. To reduce humidity, silica gel can be added to the storage container.
The place of conservation must be cool, the refrigerator is an optimal space for most seeds as long as the container or bag is hermetically closed, otherwise it may be damaged.
In the container or bag we will write the date, the species and the origin of the seed.
When we want to use the seed after a long period of conservation, we can do a germination test to ensure its viability. It involves putting some seeds in several layers of damp paper, at a temperature of 20-25º (inside the house) and observing the germination after one or two weeks.

Method to germinate seeds faster

Today I want to share with you  a very easy, fast and great way to germinate seeds , a method that we have been using for a few years! Seed germination time is reduced by 70%, and the success rate is doubled .

This method is called pre-sprouting, or pre-germination in the book where we discovered it. All you need is a plastic or glass container with a lid. The seeds do not need light to take root.

It must be borne in mind that germination requires ideal temperature, darkness or humidity conditions.

How to germinate seeds faster.
How to make the seeds germinate before detail

Put a piece of kitchen paper in the bottom of the container, add water until the paper is completely wet, but there are no puddles of water.

• germinate seeds faster

Sprinkle the seeds in groups on the wet paper, close the lid, and put a note so that you remember what kind of seeds they are.

How to make seeds germinate before pot

Check them out the next day. If the seeds are very fresh, some will germinate in just 1 day! The quickest are from the cabbage family -  broccoli , kale,  cauliflower , etc., and lettuce. The slowest ones are bell pepper, aubergine,  fennel ,  celery , which can take more than 5 days. The rest, such as  tomato , beet, chard, pumpkin,  onion , will take about 3 days.

As soon as you see the roots coming out, plant them right away. If you let the roots grow too long, it will be difficult to separate them from the kitchen paper later.
Method to germinate seeds faster

It may seem difficult to pick up a small seed, but it is actually quite easy. You can use a toothpick, or just your fingers. Plant them shallow and water them carefully every day. It will take a couple of days for us to see the first little green leaves emerge. Now is the time to put them in the sun so that they grow strong and healthy!

This method has a great success rate, even when we have fresh seeds purchased from a good seed company, the germination rate is almost 100%.

Method to germinate seeds faster plant

It is an ideal method to see if your oldest seeds (approximately 2 years) are still alive. Healthy plants can be grown from cabbage or tomato seeds with more than 5 years, you can try any type of seed to see how it works.

Burpee Seed Starter Tray with Coir Pellets, One Size, 72 Cells

 Burpee Seed Starter Tray with Coir Pellets, One Size, 72 Cells

•  Burpee 72 cell complete seed starting kit comes with two 36 cell planting trays and one water reservoir tray
• 72 Burpee super growing pellets
• Two plant-o-gram diagrams to note which varieties were sown where
• Six 4" plant markers
• Expert tip: Place super growing pellets flat-side down, and add very warm water slowly for maximum expansion

Sprouting seeds and caring for seedlings

At first glance, a seed appears to be a small and simple thing, but hidden inside it is pure potential - the potential to grow into a beautiful, mature plant that can host beautiful flowers and delicious fruits.

Many of the foods we eat to survive and the medications we take to stay healthy come from plants that had humble beginnings as seeds.

How the seeds work
Inside this simple-looking seed you will find all the genetic information necessary to grow this plant throughout its life cycle. Whether a particular plant is intended to grow fruits, grains, or perhaps just oxygen, its destiny is in that little seed.

When a seed germinates, sprouts and begins to grow, nature kicks in and the life-sustaining processes within the plant begin. But for a seed to start life as a growing plant, it will take a little help.

The seeds of flowering plants (angiosperms) are divided into two distinct categories: monocots and dicots. This classification is based on a specific characteristic of a seedling.

Cotyledons are the first leaves that a young plant will grow and will act as a food source for seedlings until the first true leaves appear, when the plant begins the process of photosynthesis to provide carbohydrates for energy.

Monocots are classified as such because they only have one cotyledon (seed leaf) while dicots have two. Plant seeds classified as monocots include wheat, corn, sugar cane, and bamboo. Seeds classified as dicotyledonous include beans, tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.

A seed is essentially made up of three parts: the seed embryo, which is basically a baby plant that will grow and mature under favorable conditions, the endosperm that will provide the initial source of food and energy for the growing embryo, and the covering of the seed. - The hard outer shell that protects the seed until it is ready to grow.

Germination is the process in which a seed and its embryo go from a dormant state to an active and growing state. Successful seed germination depends on certain conditions that are provided. These conditions are internal and external and can vary from seed to seed. The most crucial external conditions are water, temperature, oxygen and, with certain seeds, even light or darkness.

Water and seeds
Water is essential because a mature seed is usually quite dry. The seeds absorb water through a process called soaking. As water accumulates in the seed, it causes the seed coat to swell and separate. Water also activates the breakdown of the endosperm, chemically turning it into a usable food source.

Temperature and seeds
Temperature affects the metabolism and growth rate of cells in the seed embryo. Seeds generally have a temperature range in which they germinate and germination is unlikely to occur above or below this range.

For most seeds this range is between 15 and 26 ° C, but some can germinate in soil temperatures as low as 4 ° C. Oxygen is required for proper seed germination. In the form of a gas, the oxygen will reside in the pore spaces of the soil and help the development of a much needed root system. If the seed is planted too deep or the soil becomes too full, the seed may not germinate.

Should I start the seeds indoors or outdoors?
When germinating seeds at home or in the greenhouse, the first thing to think about is whether a particular seed should be started and transplanted to another location or whether it should be sown directly into its permanent home, either in the ground or growing. medium Plants such as radishes and carrots should not be started indoors and transplanted later as this can lead to stunted growth which can lead to unfavorable results.

However, starting out on tomatoes, bell peppers, and cucumber seeds, just to name a few, is a great way to jump in early in the growing season outdoors or in an indoor garden. When choosing a seed germination medium, look for one that includes substrate as an initial seed mix. This type of growing medium is likely to have a moderate load of elemental fertilizer that will benefit newly germinated seedlings.

Seeds can be germinated in many different styles of trays and containers, so choose the type that best suits the project at hand. If you start just a few seeds, a simple, flat starter tray will work. When planting many seeds at the same time, it may be prudent to use trays that are divided into separate growing chambers to reduce the amount of transplantation needed as the plants grow.

Remember that most seeds germinate at medium room temperature, but some growers use heating pads under the trays.

Tips and Tricks for Seed Germination
Heat added to the growing medium can speed up the germination process, but for most seeds this is not necessary. The use of supplemental lighting, such as a T5 fluorescent lamp, can also help provide additional heat.

Although the seeds may not need light to germinate, the new seedlings will certainly need light; Therefore, it is a good idea to have a light source ready to go. We recommend not starting the seeds on a window sill because glass can change the intensity of sunlight and plants can stretch out and have legs.

We suggest slightly moistening the growing medium before planting the seeds. This will help ensure that the medium is not overly saturated or flooded and that the moisture is distributed evenly. Using the eraser side of a pencil or the tip of your little finger, carefully make tiny little discs in the middle at the desired planting depth.

Many plants require a depth of half an inch, but to find the correct planting depth for the type of seed being grown, see the back of the seed packet; In our experience, these suggested planting depths are accurate and by whom? If not followed, lower germination rates result. If planting in a flat tray, space the seeds at least 1 cm apart, in rows or in a grid pattern.

Gently drop one or two seeds into each fertilizer, cover lightly with growing medium (oxygen is important during germination, so don't overpack the medium), and lightly mist the entire tray with a portable water mixer.

Pre-moistened soil must remain moist enough for the seeds to germinate, but may sometimes need to be sprayed to maintain even moisture distribution.

Some growers use starter trays with plastic lids. This will keep the humidity around the seeds at higher than average ambient levels and can help increase the chance of successful germination. Be sure to check the seeds almost daily to maintain an ideal environment.

As the seedlings begin to emerge in the soil, there are some environmental aspects that should receive immediate attention: light intensity, humidity, and air flow. Seeds from different plants germinate in different time periods, so check the seed package for estimated germination times so you know when to be ready.

Lighting, humidity and air flow
Many seeds can sprout in total darkness, but once the plant goes through the ground, a sufficient source of light is essential. These first true leaves will need a light source to photosynthesize and create carbohydrates to support normal plant growth and, most importantly, root growth.

Without proper lighting, the early vegetative growth of a plant can be adversely affected and this can cause lasting problems that can lead to lower yields. Moisture can be helpful during the initial germination process, but when small seedlings start to grow, high humidity levels can spell disaster.

As internal processes burn the seedling's energy sources, the plant needs to release oxygen as a gas through its stomata, a process called perspiration.

As oxygen leaves the plant, the roots draw water and elemental nutrients. In a humid environment, the stomata will remain closed and the roots will not absorb water. If the growing medium is wet, as it probably will be, the water will have nowhere to go and the roots will likely suffocate and die. Airflow and humidity almost go hand in hand.

Good airflow through the plant canopy will encourage the flow of carbon dioxide to the leaves and then oxygen to the leaves, which is important for plants at all stages of growth. A small fan at medium or low heat can help keep the humidity and heat levels from any additional lighting low.

Seedling watering
For watering practices, be sure to keep the rooting medium moist but not too wet. Seedlings need water and running out for too long can cause serious damage, but if the medium stays too wet for too long it can affect root growth.

As the seedlings grow, they eventually deplete any nutrient load that the growing medium has to offer, so light fertilization with a nitrogen-based fertilizer may be necessary while waiting to transplant into a different or permanent container.

Thus, day after day, as the seedlings grow, with due care and attention, they come closer and closer to fulfilling their own destiny.

And as we wait, anxiously awaiting the literal fruits of our labor, it is important to remember that all the plants we grow have entered this life as something small, almost insignificant, that so many people call simply a seed.

AeroGarden Heirloom Salad Greens Seed Pod Kit, 3

 AeroGarden Heirloom Salad Greens Seed Pod Kit, 3

•  INCLUDES SALAD GREENS SEED KIT - 3 pre-seeded Grow Pods, featuring gourmet lettuce varieties: Black Seeded Simpson (1), Deer Tongue (1) and Parris Island (1)
• PLANT TO PLATE – Non-GMO seeds; No herbicides; No pesticides. Harvest lettuce directly from your AeroGarden for the freshest salad possible.
• COMES WITH EVERYTHING - Also includes a 3 oz bottle of patented, specially formulated Liquid Nutrients, grow domes for optimal germination, and a Growing Guide with step by step instructions.
• GERMINATION GUARANTEE - 100 Percent Germination Guarantee; if a Seed Pod doesn't sprout, we'll replace it for free.
• WORKS WITH ANY AEROGARDEN - For use in all AeroGarden models.

Necessary environment for proper seed germination

It is interesting to know how seeds germinate and grow and develop into healthy seedlings to establish a successful crop. Few decisions are more important to successful vegetable production than the selection of an appropriate

The seeds must be of high quality, clean, and purchased from a reputable seed company. With very few exceptions, it is a requirement that certified organic growers use only certified organic seeds and seedlings.

All well-developed seeds contain an embryo and in most plant species a food reserve wrapped in a cuticle that covers the seed. The seeds generally "wake up" and germinate well when the soil is moist and the temperature conditions are favorable for them to grow. But not all seeds have the same germination requirements, so it is important to know what each type of seed needs.

Temperature, humidity, oxygen and light conditions must be suitable for the seeds to germinate. All seeds have optimal temperature ranges for germination (Table 1). The minimum temperature is the lowest temperature required for the seeds to germinate effectively. The maximum is the highest temperature at which they can germinate properly. Any temperature above or below these can damage or cause the seeds to revert to a resting state. When temperatures are optimal, germination is fast and uniform.

All seeds need adequate moisture and oxygen to germinate. It is very important that there is good contact between the seed and the soil. To plant directly in the ground, a seedbed with a fine-textured soil that does not compact too much is recommended. For greenhouse seedlings the growing medium must be soilless, but moist and fluffy. The soil or growing medium must have enough moisture so that the seeds can absorb the water to begin the germination process. Like any other living organism, seeds also need oxygen to breathe, and the oxygen comes from the air that circulates in the soil when it is not compact or too humid.

Not all seeds have the same light requirements. Most seeds germinate best under dark conditions, and light can prevent germination. However, some others need light to germinate. But once the seeds have germinated and emerged from the soil or growing medium as seedlings, they all need sunlight to grow.


TABLE 1.- OPTIMAL SOIL TEMPERATURES FOR THE GERMINATION OF VEGETABLES
Growing vegetables    Minimum (° C)    Optimal Range (° C)    Optima (° C)    Maximum (° C)
Beetroot    4    10-29    29    29
Beans    fifteen    15-29    26    35
Cabbage    4    7-35    29    37
Cauliflower    4    7-29    26    37
Celery    4    15-21    twenty-one    29
Chard    4    10-29    29    35
Cucumber    fifteen    15-35    35    40
Eggplant    fifteen    23-32    29    35
Lettuce    1    4-26    2. 3    29
Cantaloupe    fifteen    23-35    32    37
Onion    1    10-35    2. 3    35
Parsley    4    10-29    2. 3    32
Pea    4    4-23    2. 3    29
chili    fifteen    18-35    29    35
Pumpkin    fifteen    21-32    32    37
Spinach    1    7-23    twenty-one    29
Butternut squash    fifteen    21-35    35    37
Sweet corn    10    15-35    35    40
Tomatoes    10    21-35    29    35

Germination management for seedling development

Germination test on old seeds

Seeds are generally stored from one year to the next and if stored incorrectly or for too many years, they can lose vigor and germinate poorly when planted. There is a very simple germination test that can determine whether stored seeds are viable. The test consists of taking a sample, about 25 seeds, gently wrapping them in a damp paper towel without being soaked for five to ten days. After those days have passed, unwrap the paper towel and count how many seeds have germinated; if they are less than 85 to 90%, it is better to discard them and throw away the rest of the stored seeds, buy new seeds.

Uniform germination

We know that seeds need proper conditions to germinate quickly. Whether the seeds are planted in trays in the greenhouses or directly in the field, the goal is for all the seeds to germinate at the same or close to the same time and grow at the same rate. A uniform transplant tray is easier to handle and will lead to a better harvest. Uneven germination due to slow growth, differences in soil moisture or temperatures, or differences in depth when planting seeds can result in seedlings of different sizes, half will be ready to transplant directly into the ground and the other half will be too small, with the roots curled up without the roots easily coming out of their cells.

In the greenhouse, one way to achieve rapid and uniform germination is to use the germination mats underneath the trays. These mats will allow you to set the temperature according to the requirements of the seeds. Make sure to provide optimal temperatures for crops. Providing good oxygen circulation to the seedlings during germination will help them control disease as they begin to grow during this early stage of growth.

We cannot control field conditions like we can inside greenhouses, but we can still take steps to ensure that seeds planted directly in the field germinate evenly. A fine-textured soil bed provides good seed growth conditions, good soil-seed contact, and the ability to plant them at a uniform depth. Planted when soil temperatures are near optimal will speed germination and seedling emergence. Sometimes in the rush to sow in the spring, the seeds are sown in soils that are still very cold. This can result in slow germination, weak and diseased seedlings, and their death. It is better to delay planting until the soils have warmed up.


Seedling development

The optimum temperature for seedling growth may be different from the optimum temperature for germination. In Table 2 the range shown temperature day and night that are best for the growth of seedlings in a greenhouse where they can control temperatures. Lower temperatures generally cause seedling growth to be slower and higher temperatures make it faster.

All seedlings need plenty of light to grow. If the light levels are low or if the seedlings are too crowded, the stems become very long as the plants seek more light which results in weak and elongated transplants. If the light levels are low in the greenhouses consider adding supplemental lights to have a better light level for the seedlings.

All crops need an acclimatization period before transplanting them from the greenhouse to the field or they will be damaged by adverse conditions. To acclimatize the seedlings, they are gradually exposed to the conditions they will have directly in the field. Most transplants can be acclimatized by gradually reducing the temperature in the greenhouse and / or reducing watering. The seedlings that are acclimatized in this way will be in a better condition to withstand the transplant and to continue growing without interruption directly in the field.

TABLE 2.- TEMPERATURE AND TIME REQUIRED FOR THE GROWTH OF THE SEEDLINGS.
Growing vegetables    Day (° C)    Night (° C)    Time (weeks)
Broccoli    15-21    10-15    5-7
Cabbage    15-21    10-15    5-7
Cauliflower    15-21    10-15    5-7
Celery    18-23    15-18    10-12
Cucumber    21-23    15-18    3-4
Eggplant    21-26    18-21    6-8
Lettuce    12-18    10-12    5-7
Cantaloupe    21-26    18-21    3-4
Onion    15-18    55-15    10-12
chili    18-23    15-18    6-8
Butternut squash    21-23    15-18    3-4
Tomatoes    18-23    15-18    5-7

Nature's Way Bird Products CWH1 Cedar Wren House, 8" x 8.875" x 8.125"

Nature's Way Bird Products CWH1 Cedar Wren House, 8" x 8.875" x 8.125"

•  Made with insect and rot-resistant premium cedar and rust-free stainless steel hardware
• Air vents allow for maximum air ventilation through wall and floor openings for bird health
• Clean-out door provides easy access for cleaning
• 1 1/8" hole keeps out sparrows and larger birds
• Attracts wrens and chickadees
• Vinyl coated steel hanging cable included

How to protect your bird from the cold?

Birds are sensitive to cold, especially those that belong to tropical species or come from warm regions. If low temperatures are beginning to be felt and you want to know how to protect your bird from the cold, pay attention to the following tips.

Relocate the cage to protect your bird from the cold

One of the most important things you have to do to protect your bird from the cold is to relocate the cage . If it is outside, it may be a good idea to move it inside the house. If this is not possible, it can be kept outside, but in an area protected from frost and wind .

If you see that your bird is in a ball, it is because it is cold. If possible, put the cage indoors, but taking care not to place it near a heat source or behind a window exposed to direct sunlight. When you turn on the heating, use a humidifier , so that your respiratory system does not suffer.

Change the diet to protect your bird from the cold

With the arrival of the cold the birds must increase their fat reserves. For example, if they can be included in your diet, put more sunflower seeds or peanuts in your feeder. They contain a higher oleic index and serve for the bird to generate a layer of fat to keep them warm.

If the cage stays outside, check that there is never a lack of liquid water. Being in the open can freeze . It may be convenient to locate it in the area least exposed to cold to minimize this risk.

Prepare the cage to protect your bird from the cold

When there is no choice but to keep the cage out of the house, it must be placed in the most sheltered place from wind and ice . It can be had on a terrace, under the overhang of a roof or window.

One more thing to do is provide a warm place for it. As in nature it would be sheltered in a nest, it is convenient to leave a generous amount of cotton so that it has a warmer area in which to be. On frosty nights, it may be necessary to cover the cage with a cloth , always leaving enough gaps for air to enter.

The type of cage is also important. For winter you can use a partially closed cage , so the bird will have more shelter. Others have a visor that can also help minimize the effects of a frost.

Where to get everything you need for your bird

In Madagascar Pets we have everything you need for your bird. You can go to any of our stores and request advice from our specialists. They will help you protect your bird from the cold.

5 tips to keep exotic birds warm in winter

Most pet bird species come from areas with hot, tropical climates. Because their bodies are designed to withstand heat, cold weather can spell big trouble for an unprotected exotic bird. To ensure winter weather doesn't put your pet's health at risk, keep the following tips in mind when preparing for the changing seasons:

Move the cage away from doors and windows

Birds that are placed near doors and windows are at risk of exposure to freezing drafts. Move your pet indoors to avoid chills.

Consider covering the cage at night

Using a cage cover after the sun sets can do wonders to help maintain a comfortable temperature within your bird's environment.

Test temporary isolation
Seal unused windows and doors with a shrink wrap insulation kit. Not only will it help keep cool air outside, but it will keep warm air inside.

Be careful when heating
Wood burning fireplaces, as well as electric kerosene and electric heaters, can pose a threat to your pet's health. Wood and gas smoke and fumes can wreak havoc on a bird's respiratory system, and many electric heaters contain a non-stick coating, which is notorious for causing acute illness and death in birds.

Monitor closely for signs of exposure
A chilled bird is a bird with a lowered immune system. Keeping an eye out for common symptoms of the disease can help prevent any weather-related health problems due to the snowball.

Taking steps to adequately heat your bird's environment is necessary for its health and comfort. With these tips, it should be easy to keep your feathered friend nice and tan until spring arrives. Stay warm

How to take care of your domestic bird in the winter?

Contrary to what many people believe, domestic birds can also suffer the ravages of winter and become ill or have various health complications, since the temperature of the environment does not adapt to the body temperature of the birds.

In the same way that dogs or cats suffer some discomfort due to low temperatures, domestic birds can go through difficult times when they must face the cold without any support.

Because of this we want to present you some tips so that you know in what way or what is the best way to take care of your domestic birds , or pets during the winter and thus you can maintain a balance and a healthy life in your home with your pets. .

Avoid drafts
Any type of air current could negatively affect your pet, since your domestic bird, despite having a plumage that protects its skin, is susceptible to changes in environmental temperature. That is why it is best to avoid placing your pet's cage in places where there are drafts.

You can also take care of your domestic bird from drafts, placing a thin cloth on top of the cage that covers the cold wind, this can help a lot. At night or when it is too cold, it is recommended to place the cage in slightly more closed spaces where your bird can stay warm.

In case your bird is loose and you do not have a cage , try as much as possible to keep it indoors, that is, you can better control the movements it makes, so that you know specifically what the problems or temperatures that could affect it.

Keep them active
Like human beings, a good way to combat the cold in animals is by keeping them constantly active, that is, they can play with objects that allow them to move and stay active at all times. This will help to a great extent to reduce the risk that your pet will go through some kind of problem in the future related to low temperatures.

Finally, do not try to bathe them, spray them with water or make them come into contact with any type of liquid under any circumstances, unless it is to drink, during the winter, as this could seriously affect the mobility of your pet.

Remember that birds have wings that are usually muscles and part of their skeleton that is quite sensitive and prone to breaking easily, so if we add hypothermia the mixture is fatal.

Remember that domestic birds are much more delicate animals than cats or dogs, so we must take even greater care in the care we have with these types of pets. Especially in winter, when the birds usually have endless complications due to the variation in temperature.

Wild Wings WWCH3 Cedar Blue Bird Box House

 Wild Wings WWCH3 Cedar Blue Bird Box House

•  Crafted from insect and rot resistant Premium cedar
• Air vents allow for proper air ventilation through wall and floor openings
• Clean-out door allows easy access to clean between broods
• Predator guard extends the entrance hole to protect young birds against predators

How to protect your bird from the cold: tips and tricks

Having a bird as a pet is one of the trends of our days, from a parrot to a parakeet. These are animals that they like a lot because they enliven the home with their songs and that are ideal for those who do not have as much time as to take care of other pets that do require it. However, like all living beings, birds need basic care, and we must not forget that they are animals that are very sensitive to cold ; so it is essential to give them the protection they need with the arrival of winter.

HOW TO KNOW IF YOUR BIRD IS COLD

The constitution of birds is prepared to resist the cold thanks to its feathers , which act as if it were a garment, and the scales on their legs, which simulate to be shoes. Birds are designed to live in freedom, and for this reason their body is prepared for low temperatures, even if they seek shelter during rains or frosts. However, in the case of domestic birds they have to face the temperatures to which they are exposed , and in many cases they are not used to the cold.

To find out if your pet needs more heat, watch his behavior. If you detect that they have cupped their wings, it is an infallible sign that will tell you that they are cold, as it is the mechanism they use to get bigger, better cover themselves and save their body heat . In addition, you should be alert if you see that the animal remains immobile or seems lethargic , as a result of a reduction in its metabolic activity. Birds develop this strategy to conserve calories and reduce their cardiorespiratory rate.

HOW TO CONDITION YOUR BIRD'S CAGE SO THAT IT DOES NOT GET COLD

With the arrival of winter you should introduce the following changes in your bird's cage to prevent the cold from causing problems:

Choosing a good feeder can be key in autumn and winter, especially if the place where you have your pet's cage is outside, as there are some models designed to protect food from moisture . In this way you will prevent bacteria from proliferating in the grains and the food that you provide.
Although the birds live on their feet, you can buy your pet a nest to snuggle up and rest, to which you can put a little cotton to make it warmer.
To protect the cage from the cold, protect it with a blanket , although you should always leave some space for oxygen to enter . It is also recommended that there be a separation distance between the fabric and the bars to prevent the bird from grabbing the blanket.
There is the option of buying partially covered or roofed cages , an idea especially recommended for species less resistant to cold or for cages located on terraces or gardens. However, it is very important that there is always light and oxygen in.

TIPS TO PREVENT YOUR BIRD FROM GETTING COLD

When the low temperatures arrive, you have to take precautions so that your pet does not catch cold and alter its health. Among the considerations to take into account is the location of the cage, since you must keep it away from drafts and prevent them from being in contact with the cold outside. Also, do not place it too close to a heat source as this could have the opposite effect. It is also highly recommended that you shelter it at night since it is the part of the day when temperatures drop the most and the animal is inactive, that is, a perfect situation for the cold to affect your bird's defenses .

On the other hand, you have to be careful with heating, because although it helps the space to be warmer, it can dry out your pet's eyes and respiratory tract . It is evident that the heat helps to protect the birds from the cold, but it prevents them from being very close to it and above all, use a humidifier that maintains the humidity in the environment, although always checking that it is not excessive. In addition, you must be very careful in case you release the bird through the house if you want it to activate to warm it up, as there may be elements that damage your bird , such as radiators, fireplaces or heaters.

Foods that provide calories
Another recommendation to follow is to provide your pet with caloric foods that provide fat , with seeds being the most suitable food. With the seeds, the birds ingest nutrients whose energy is stored in the body and is precisely more difficult to eliminate than that provided by other foods such as carbohydrates. In this way, you will strengthen your immune system against the cold, although you must always be careful not to exceed the amounts so as not to harm your health, either causing cardiovascular or digestive problems. You can also feed them foods rich in vitamin C, a nutrient designed to strengthen the immune system of birds.and therefore to make them less vulnerable to colds and other illnesses. You should know that many birds need to ingest this vitamin because they do not produce it, so it is always good that we provide it.

Finally, to be even more alert, pay special attention to whether your bird belongs to one of the cooler species . The birds that are least resistant to cold are usually those originating from tropical environments , such as parrots, cockatoos or parakeets, so you should protect them even more from low temperatures. Also, make sure that your pet has a good amount of water and that it is clean , because during the winter birds need to drink more liquids since the cold makes them use up their liquid reserves more easily. Also, you should not give it very cold to avoid catching a cold. And remember that birds need to bathe in water to clean its plumage and avoid parasites, so put it warm or even something warm to prevent your pet from getting hypothermic, especially while drying.