Sun Joe TJ603E 16-Inch 12-Amp Electric Tiller and Cultivator
POWERFUL: 12-amp motor cultivates up to 16 in. (40. 6 cm) wide x 8 in. (20. 3 cm) deep
DURABLE: 6 Steel angled tines for maximum durability and performance
EASY STORAGE: Handle folds for convenient storage and easy transport; voltage (V): 120
WHEEL-ADJUSTMENT: 3-position wheel adjustment
Power source type: Corded Electric
Reasons to plow the soil
Today, in this particular entry in Agromatic , we dedicate it to the soil. It is not for less since it is the livelihood of all plants, not counting those that are based on the pure hydroponic method .
We are going to comment on how doing some very simple tasks is capable of exponentially improving soil quality. A hard and tedious job, but one that reports magnificent results.
THE BENEFITS OF THE PLOW
With the plow of the suel or seek one thing: to improve soil conditions. This means that if for example we have a flooded soil, try not to accumulate water on the surface.
On the contrary, if we have a very dry soil, with high water filtration, we want it to retain water a little better and be assimilable by plants.
If we divided into segments those elements that significantly influence a soil and that, of course, affect plants, we could mention humidity, aeration, structure and also temperature.
Knowing what changes appear with the plowing of the soil with respect to these variables is important to know a little more about the land we cultivate.
Soil plow benefits
CONSERVATION OF MOISTURE IN THE SOIL
The humidity of a soil is influenced by its turning. It is something as we have told it before. If you have problems with water retention ( slow drainage ), it will allow the water to drain better. And in the opposite case the same will happen.
A soil located in a desert climate will conserve the water in the subsoil much better after turning the earth.
IMPROVED AERATION AND OXYGENATION
Although we have already mentioned it in other articles, turning the ground allows you to increase the number of macropores in the ground.
These are responsible for storing gases (such as oxygen), which the roots of plants need so that problems do not appear.
A soft soil will allow the entry of air from the outside, which is also an entry of atmospheric nitrogen (which can be fixed by climatic effects, such as rain).
CONSERVATION OF SOIL STRUCTURE
A soil can have different textures, and that is what makes it classified as sandy, silty or clayey. It is a bit more complex than these three definitions, since there are mixtures between them, but basically it is that.
Depending on the plowing system that we use, we will get the land to change the size of its aggregates, being able to increase or reduce them.
This greatly influences both plant growth and seed germination .
If very large aggregates are left, greater than 5 mm, there would be an excessively large proportion of macropores, there is no water retention and the plant finds it difficult to absorb it.
A soil with very small aggregates , around 1 mm, produces an imbalance between macropores and micropores.
Indeed, due to the absence of the former, the water is not retained efficiently and we will also have problems with the development of the plants.
MAINTAINING TEMPERATURE
What does temperature have to do with the tillage or softness of a soil? Well, even if it doesn't seem like it, a lot.
The temperature of a soil is influenced by the environment and the climate where we are, as it seems logical.
However, by turning, the difference in temperature between night and day can be reduced. This is very important, because it allows a greater comfort of the roots and, of course, that is paid for with a greater development of the plant in general.
For this same reason it is advisable to leave the plow for another day if frosts are expected .
Air is a poor conductor so worse consequences are obtained if the air content is higher. A substitution of that air for water, a much better conductor, produces benefits and passively prevents frost damage.
Plowed soil microorganisms
OK, WHAT ABOUT MICROORGANISMS?
Imagine that you were a microorganism (well, one day you were) in which you are given two options:
It grows in an environment without much oxygen, with little space, with unpleasant temperatures, and possibly waterlogged or excessively dry. It grows in an environment with a balance between humidity and gases, with ease of movement, porous, without puddles, with a comfortable temperature and a granulated soil structure. What option do you prefer? No need to answer.
What we mean is that although a priori we think that tillage produces mechanical damage to the soil, it uncovers beneficial worms and insects from the depths that later form part of the feeding of birds and other animals, the balance is corrected in a short time and the density increases exponentially in a short time.
Yes and no, we must clarify.
If your soil has a good structure , with good oxygen content, with normal drainage and in general, well, there is no need to till.
Why?
Because the microorganisms will be in charge of improving the soil even more and it would get worse with the plow.
You would modify the peaceful environment they have created and reduce the quality of it.
On the other hand, if your soil has poor drainage, is continually subjected to flooding and the soil structure is bad, the initial conditions for the development of microorganisms are bad or very bad.
Therefore, you have to act. Once they improve, you will not need to work frequently (in fact, it is not recommended).
ORGANIC MATTER IN A PLOWED SOIL
You have to think that with the turning, even if organic matter is not applied, its content also improves. How is this possible, if nothing has been contributed to the earth?
Because poor soil tends to create a surface layer of fertilizer compounds, including organic matter, at a depth where most herbaceous plants cannot access.
That is, the soil has a good percentage of organic matter , yes, but it is not balanced. You have a gold mine on the ground but you don't have the shovel and the pick to access it (well, today he gave us the similes).
When we plow the soil, if it is deep , we are removing deep layers with the superficial ones, so that all the mixture is distributed homogeneously.
Now all the mineral and organic content of the soil will be available to plants.
Without contributing anything, we have vastly improved soil fertility.
Not only that, since it is not about removing and disposing it to the crops. As we have a soft soil with greater aeration, all the nutrients and minerals that the organic matter houses are oxidized in greater volume and facilitate their absorption by the plants.
I WORK YES, BUT WITHOUT ABUSING
The balance of life allows us to use all the resources we want, up to a point. Any element considered as positive is so until it is abused, in such a way that once it reaches the peak of profit, damages begin to appear due to its abuse.
In fact, the current trend is conservation tillage . That is, plow only when necessary, not always annually, since in the long run, all the physical benefits that we obtained with the soil are lost.
The best thing is that we dedicate a future post to it, since it is also a long and widespread topic. You already know that you have our social networks and the subscription so you don't miss anything we post.
Adjustable TillIng Width - Electric tiller can be quickly switched from 6 tInes to 4 tInes without tools, workIng width from 18 Inches to 12.5 Inches, which can meet your different work needs. Attention : When usIng the tiller, it should be dragged backwards, which can reduce the bouncIng of the machIne and ensure safety
Compact Storage - The foldable design allows you to fold the tiller easily without tools, providIng space-savIng and convenient storage and ensurIng cleanlIness. Folded size : 25.2" * 21.7"* 17.7"
High Efficiency - Powerful 13.5 Amp copper motor generates speed up to 380 Rpm. The workIng depth reaches up to 8'', ideal for soil loosenIng and bed preparation In garden, yard, and vegetable plot
Safe & Durabile - Safety buttons and brake switches offer double protection to prevent accidental start, safety button on / off trigger to start the machIne; The Manganese steel tInes of high hardness and toughness ensure maximum durability and stable performance
User-friendly Design - Lightweight design (22 lbs) facilitates your daily work with more mobility; Its ergonomic foldIng handlebar with anti-vibration system that can effectively reduce arm fatigue
Tempero, the perfect soil for plowing
We have been talking for a few days about the benefits and drawbacks of tilling the soil. We discussed in an article the advantages of doing it and we also dedicate another article totally to the opposite, no tillage. For those who practice soil plowing, it is convenient to know what time is the ideal to do it. This is known as tempero. Let's see it.
TEMPERATE AND OPTIMAL SOIL CONDITION FOR TILLING
You just have to check or see a floor when plowing without enough moisture. Some very compact clods of earth come out. Then, after this previous plowing, a new pass (a complementary task) is necessary to break up these clods and leave the perfect soil for sowing.
Otherwise it would be when we plow with a soil that has accumulated enough moisture. Either because it has rained on the area or it has recently been watered. When plowing this soil, we find that, apart from the fact that the earth sticks to all the tillage tools, a "reinforced" mass is formed that is not beneficial at all when sowing.
LOOKING FOR THE EXACT MOMENT TO WORK, THE TEMPERO
Since neither of these two examples is ideal, we have to find the middle ground, which is not easy.
A farmer can wait a few days for the soil to "dry out" after it has rained. However, if the area is dry and it has been a long time since water has fallen from the sky, looking for the temperature is, so to speak, impossible.
Often it is necessary to resort to leaving the ground with clods after plowing and, later, to carry out a complementary work to break them up and that the soil is prepared for planting.
The temperature value is not usually established experimentally, rather intuitively. The experienced farmer is able to recognize a soil in tempera just by looking at it or by picking up a sample by hand.
WHAT IS TEMPERO BASED ON?
From a technical point of view, the word tempero is related to the forces of cohesion or plasticity that a soil has. When a soil is dry, that is, the humidity level is minimal, it cracks, it is quite fragile and it disintegrates easily. When we walk on it it is not able to deform without breaking.
As we have said, this soil will form large aggregates of soil (known as clods), often several kilograms in weight, which make any planting impossible. The seed would be lost among so many holes. It is the dry state .
In the plastic state , the soil harbors enough moisture to deform without breaking into smaller aggregates. It is a very opportune state because, when plowing, large masses of land are not formed.
Finally, after a heavy rain or 'blanket watering', the soil is extremely moist. It is said that it is in a liquid state , it is nothing more than mud, a mass of land with a lot of water that when squeezed releases liquid that runs off between the hands. Obviously, the plow is unthinkable.
muddy ground without tempero
WHEN TO PLOW? To get to classify it within a point of these three states , we could say that the temperature is an intermediate point between the dry state and the plastic. That is, the work allows large aggregates not to form nor does the soil have so much moisture as to make work difficult.
Dry soil without tempero
Very dry soil makes plowing extremely difficult
To add a more technical aspect to the matter, and not leave it to the expert eye of the farmer , said state of temperature is found when it has a humidity higher than the minimum in which the soil can deform and not break, and lower humidity than when we introduce a pointed object into the ground and dirt remains stuck to it.
Yes, the truth is that it is something difficult to explain ...
WHY DO THE WORK WITH TEMPERO?
Plain and simple, because it offers greater advantages than doing it at another time. When the ground is very dry, it offers great resistance to the advance of the implement, so the cost of the operation will increase considerably.
On the other hand, the result prevents direct sowing.
If the ground is very wet, when the implement and the tractor pass through the ground, it deforms to such an extent that the "work sole" is formed, the tire mark that usually gives away this tilling operation. If there is a lot of water on the ground, the machinery slips and makes it difficult to adhere, so the cost will also be higher.
The temperature, finally, is a recommendation for all those who will plow your soil, if the physical conditions of it are not good and you need to improve them. Remember that this operation has advantages and also disadvantages. Each case will have to be studied separately, as we have tried to do.
Sun Joe TJ604E 16-Inch 13.5 AMP Electric Garden Tiller/Cultivator,Black
Powerful: 13. 5-Amp motor cultivates up to 16 in. Wide x 8 in. Deep
Durable: 6 Steel angled tines for maximum durability and performance
Easy storage: handle folds for convenient storage and easy transport
Wheel-adjustment: 3-position wheel adjustment
BASIC PRINCIPLES OF TILLING
"Soil preparation" is the physical manipulation that is applied with the intention of modifying those characteristics that affect the sprouting of the seeds and subsequent stages of growth of the crop. These characteristics determine the plant-soil-water-air relationships, which will affect the development of plants.
Soil characteristics that affect plant growth
a) Soil structure. It is the ordering of the soil particles, understood as such, not only the individual mechanical elements such as sand, silt and clay, but also the aggregates that have been formed into smaller fractions by mechanical action. The productivity of a soil depends to a large extent on its structure, therefore, the first objective of all primary tillage operations is to modify it to obtain a porosity that allows good gas and air circulation in the soil, facilitating growth. and root penetration.
b) Soil aeration. It is important to decide the fineness of the tillage. Crops can only grow vigorously in an environment with good aeration, that is, where the concentration of carbon dioxide around their roots is low and that of oxygen is high. Therefore, the rates of transfer of carbon dioxide from the root zone to the atmosphere, as oxygen from the atmosphere to the root zone, are properties of the soil of fundamental importance for the crop. By increasing the volume of pores with the plow, the conditions of air movement in the soil are improved, causing a decrease in the content of carbon dioxide. However, excessive or poorly performed tillage destroy aggregation and increase soil density, reducing porosity,
In a vertical section of a soil, it is observed that at different depths there are layers of different appearance, called horizons and their set make up the soil profile.
Horizon A: Darker, better structure, good pore content.
Horizon B: Subsoil, accumulation of soluble substances and colloidal matters, with lower fertility than horizon A.
Horizon C: Original material, less affected by physical, chemical and biological agents. It is the least fertile horizon.
c) Compaction. Compaction is a problem that occurs in those soils whose structure is prone to destruction due to the effects of tillage and / or the action of water (rain or irrigation). Some degree of compaction can be beneficial, but when it is excessive, it can result in detrimental effects on soils and on the growth of cultivated plants. By reducing their porosity, it hinders the movement of roots, gases and water.
Soil compaction is the result of gravity, rain, and traffic. Of these, only the latter can be regulated by man and its action is "more severe" when organic matter is scarce, since the humus acts as a cement to give stability to the soil aggregates. As it is not possible to suspend the movement of agricultural equipment on the ground, methods must be used that tend to reduce the amount of work carried out on them. The effects of compaction increase with machinery traffic and even more so if the soil is loose at the time of starting work. This effect is also increased, when the soil has been worked with an intermediate moisture content (friable soil), a point at which it presents its maximum ease of loosening but also
The weight of the agricultural machinery and the working speed, together with the vibration of the drive unit, favor the general compaction of the soil, especially where practices that deteriorate its structure have been carried out. When a heavy tractor is used for tillage work, each "pass" causes two tracks in strips of approximately half a meter each. With subsequent work from the fourth pass, it is assumed that the ground is completely covered with tracks. The first pass of a tractor over freshly plowed soil has been shown to compact ten times more than a second or subsequent pass.
Therefore, it is advisable to "match" the traces of the subsequent passes so as not to generalize the damage and at the same time reduce the work to a minimum. It is recommended that the weight of the tractor and implements gravitate as little as possible on the ground, using wide tires with low pressures, especially when working on wet soils. The repeated use of the disc and / or moldboard plow at the same depth, compacts year after year the bottom of the furrow and forms a hard layer 3 to 4 centimeters thick, commonly known as "plow foot". This compaction limits root penetration, slows the movement of water and air in the soil profile and consequently causes drainage and erosion problems.
Another situation that requires special subsoil tillage treatment occurs in permanent grasslands subjected to direct grazing. The compaction produced by trampling animals is even more severe than that generated by machinery traffic, since the weight is distributed over a smaller surface in contact with the ground. This is particularly important in potato crops, which are generally used as a rotation head, after pasture.
The possibilities of compaction are greater in soils with a clay texture and in those with a low content of organic matter. Overworking that leaves the soil finely soft (especially with disc harrows) favors compaction and should therefore be avoided.
d) Organic matter. Organic matter increases aggregation and improves the structure of soils. Continuous tillage practice has been shown to destroy aggregation and deteriorate its structure, simultaneously reducing its organic matter content. The incorporation of organic matter into the "topsoil" of the soil by plowing crop stubble and / or degraded natural or artificial pastures enhances the soil structure and reduces the negative effects of compaction. The same goes for the use of manure and liming. For organic matter to break down quickly, the stubble must be broken into small pieces and allowed to dry on the surface before being buried. It is also recommended, to speed up this process, add approximately 80 to 100 kg. nitrogen per hectare,
e) Soil moisture. It is one of the factors that has the highest incidence in soil preparation work, both in plowing and scraping. Moisture makes the soil present more or less resistance to the penetration of the implements, it also gives it plasticity characteristics that allow it to adhere to the tillage implements, hindering their action. In very humid soils, traction is affected by increasing slippage and increasing power requirements, due to the great resistance it offers when moving the plow.
A soil with low moisture content is hard. As the humidity increases, it softens and breaks down easily. The friable consistency represents the optimal humidity condition to carry out the tillage of the same. This condition is recognized in practice by taking soil in your hand and making it easily disintegrate when pressed, without leaving any remains attached to it. Very wet soil forms a ball when "kneaded" and soils the hand with the wet clay that sticks. A too dry soil forms very hard clods that are very difficult to break up.
When the moisture content increases excessively, the floor becomes plastic, adhesive and very difficult to disintegrate, the action of the scrapers being useless. This is closely related to the type of soil. Sandy soils do not present these problems, but as the clay content increases, it is important to consider working the soil in friable conditions, as it is very difficult to manage. Clay soils require great dedication, because they quickly lose moisture in spring, being difficult to loosen.
From the above, it can be deduced that the soil's softness is closely linked to its moisture content and, therefore, the opportunity to carry out the work is more important than the number of times. A job done at the right time can have a definitive effect on obtaining the desired degree of fluffiness. However, it should not be forgotten that the moment when the soil is easier to compact, coincides with its friable condition, so it is advisable to avoid excessive traffic in order not to reach an excess of compaction.
OBJECTIVES OF SOIL PREPARATION
Release and remove the soil to create favorable conditions for the circulation of water and gases in the arable area of the soil, at the same time facilitating the root development of the crop to be established.
Generate optimal soil loosening conditions for seed germination.
Control and destroy weeds that compete with the crop.
Increase the moisture retention capacity of the soil.
Eliminate those insects that constitute pests, their larvae, eggs and places of development.
Incorporate plant residues, fertilizers and lime promoting an increase in bacterial activity and an increase in organic matter.
There is no priority order of importance in the proposed objectives, given the enormous variety of soil, weed, pest and humidity problems present in the fields throughout the country.
OPTIMAL SEEDING BED
The seedbed corresponds to the entire soil profile that is altered by tillage work and its function is to create the ideal conditions for sowing, germination of the seed and subsequent development of the crop. In it, two zones are distinguished that obey different objectives and therefore require different characteristics: the seed zone and the root zone.
Optimal characteristics and conditions of the seed zone
The seed zone is the superficial one and must allow the increase in surface temperature and adequate humidity provided from the lower layers of the soil. Soil preparation generally begins in winter and when planting this area should present the following characteristics:
a) Depth : The land for a potato planting must have a surface layer of 8 cm. suitably soft, allowing aeration and accumulation of sufficient temperature for sprouting. Further down there should be a layer with higher moisture content, 15 to 20 cm. on which the seed tuber is deposited. These first centimeters of soil constitute the sprouting zone, therefore a good job of this part of the soil will ensure the best emergence of the plants.
b) Softness: The degree of softness of the soil must be related to the size of the seed. When the clods are too large, good contact is not established with it, due to the air pockets that surround it and isolate it, they prevent the transfer of the humidity and temperature necessary for sprouting. The clods must not exceed 3 cm in diameter. The excessive fluffiness of the seed zone is not favorable either, since it destroys the structure facilitating the compaction produced by the water.
c) It must be free of weeds , champas and live plant residues on the surface. Weeds compete with the crop for nutrients from the soil, water, and light.
d) Compaction: It must be firm enough so that the planting machine can regulate the depth and thus allow a uniform location for the seed. In no case is it advisable for excessive compaction to occur in this area, which may limit root penetration and water and air circulation.
e) Humidity : It must have the necessary humidity to allow a good germination and development of the seedlings. Excessive tillage in the seed zone ventilates the soil and dries it quickly.
f) Temperature : In the potato-producing area this aspect is very important since the seed tuber to sprout requires temperatures above 9ºC in the soil. This happens from August onwards and especially if the paddocks have a northern exposure.
Characteristics and optimal conditions of the root zone It
corresponds to the deepest zone from where the extraction of nutrients, water and air that the plant needs for its growth takes place, and must meet the following characteristics:
a) It requires less fluffing than the seed zone.
b) It must have a granular structure that allows easy activity and root penetration.
c) It should not be compacted to allow better water retention and greater air movement in the soil.
d) It must be deep enough to allow the roots to have a wide area of development (up to 25 to 30 cm).
This area must be removed by deep plowing, only this being enough to leave it in good condition. However, the plowing work should not exceed 28 to 30 cm. depth of soil, it is advisable to eliminate all the compactions present at the bottom of the arable soil (plow foot) that limit root development and the movement of water in it.
SOIL PREPARATION METHODS AND TYPES OF TILLAGE
a) Traditional tillage:
It is the soil preparation system that was used in a traditional way, and in some cases it is still carried out by small farmers. It is characterized by the repeated use of the moldboard plow, with which crosses and recruits are made that invert the soil, followed by a significant number of harrows with disc or nail harrows. In each plow pass a large amount of soil is moved, leaving the surface without vegetation cover.
The "cross" corresponds to the second plowing that is applied to a soil in the same season, this is carried out perpendicular to the first plowing. It is a practice that is identified with traditional farming and that does not always have a clear justification; However, when it is used it is mainly to solve the following situations:
Rectify a hole of irregular depth, and defective investment. Deepening the "seed bed" when, due to the characteristics of the soil, it is not possible to achieve the desired depth with the first plow. Loosen the soil that has been compacted by the rains. This case is common in the preparation of clayey soils (vegas).
Extract moist soil from the lower layers, burying the clods that have formed on the surface, as a way to facilitate loosening. If the previous points are analyzed, it is possible to verify that the cross can be eliminated in most cases, since most of them are the result of inappropriate soil management practices.
b) Conventional tillage: Soil preparation system that uses moldboard or disc plows to give the working depth and invert the soil and a limited number of harrows with disc or nail harrows, vibro-cultivator, rotary cutters, rotators, etc. It differs from the traditional system by eliminating the work of crossing and recruza. In the same way, it moves a large amount of soil, and leaves the surface without vegetation cover.
c) Minimum tillage: Faced with the large number of problems created by over-tilling, new methods of soil preparation are proposed, inspired by the principles of minimum tillage, which tends to reduce the traffic of machinery through the field.
To apply minimum tillage procedures, no special or sophisticated equipment is required. Common implements are used, arranged in tandem (one behind the other) and applied at the right time and in relation to the moisture content of the soil. Nor is more power required, since the tractors have enough reserve to cover the extra demand that means attaching an additional implement such as those mentioned.
The most frequent cases involve the execution of two or more tasks simultaneously, coupling several tillage implements to the tractor in tandem. Tractor, plow, subsurface roller and nail harrow coupled in line, often achieve a suitable seedbed in just one operation on some soils. Other examples could be: a subsurface roller or a nail harrow attached behind the plow, to prevent clod formation in medium to heavy soils; A nail harrow or a simple wooden harrow behind the disc harrow makes it possible to achieve a more finished soil loosening, while also sealing it on the surface to prevent moisture loss.
Currently the national agricultural machinery market offers a series of equipment that is based on this principle of minimum tillage, such as the combined harrow of nails and rollers; in addition to the strategic use of the vibrocultivator, rotary mills, rotators and chisels with stubble incorporators. The trend has been to replace the use of the moldboard and disk plows with the chisel plow, to give the depth of work, moving a small amount of soil from the profile and replacing the inversion of the soil with the chemical control of the vegetation or "Chemical fallow".
The best results with minimal tillage are achieved on medium textured soils. Heavy soils make it difficult for equipment to move because of its hardness, when the moisture content is low, and because of its adhesiveness, when it is too wet. These methods, however, can be applied on all arable soils, after eliminating natural obstacles such as stones and logs, in favorable humidity conditions. At present, tillage for potato cultivation has been reduced to such an extent that there are rotary mills that with just one pass allow the soil to be in suitable conditions for planting.
Another aspect to consider is the improvement of the planting opportunity, especially when it is prepared with a rotary cutter pass, which allows synchronizing the soil preparation with the planting. Only the surface that will be planted the next day will be prepared, thus becoming independent of the climatic conditions. Despite the improvement of mechanization technology for tillage, the success of minimum tillage systems depends largely on the efficiency of the operator, quality of work and physical characteristics of the soil at the time of applying these methods.
d) Zero tillage : As in the case of cereals, the reduction of tillage in the potato crop has reached the extreme of eliminating it completely, thus creating a zero tillage system. In this case, the crop is established directly on the ground, covering the seed with a dense layer of stubble or cereal straw, which allows it to be protected from environmental factors such as light, wind and low temperatures, thus facilitating the development of the crop. Because planting and crop management are done manually, the system is limited to small areas.
Soil preparation times
Soil preparation must be planned well in advance, with the aim that sowing is not delayed by this concept. Most of the delays in planting are due to winter rains and excessive soil moisture, which prevents mechanized tillage from starting as early as desired, limiting the time available to prepare the soil, added to the fact that the decomposition of the waste buried by the plow is slow.
These considerations make it advisable to start the work of soil preparation for sowing in autumn (chopping and incorporation of the residues with plowing), then continue in winter or at the end of winter with superficial scrapes (control of the germination of weed seeds) and finish during the last month before sowing, deepening the break with a chisel plow (without inverting), leveling and conditioning the seed area. In general, the early potato planting date is July and the mid-season is August.
In the case of plain soils, soil preparation begins in October, once the humidity level has decreased. In the coastal sector, the sun and the prevailing south wind in spring dry the soil quickly, especially in the case of soils with a loamy-clay texture, with a great tendency to form clods. That is why the soil preparation must be done quickly, taking advantage of the friable soil condition. If clods do form, due to the action of the sun and the wind, it is best to plow with a moldboard or disc to bury them and "bring to the surface" moist soil in better condition to be broken up.
MACHINERY FOR PREPARING SOILS FOR SOWING
There is a wide variety of equipment for breaking, breaking up, leveling, compacting the soil, breaking clods, controlling weeds and shredding stubble residues from the previous crop. Most of these equipments are of different design, but they have been conceived to solve the same problem (disc plows and moldboards, vibro cultivator tandem harrow), or to act under specific soil conditions. To determine the most suitable soil preparation method and correctly choose the equipment to use, it is necessary to clearly define the characteristics of the seedbed to be achieved, and to know the effects of the available tillage equipment.
Deep work equipment
Soil breaking equipment is classified according to its action: plows that invert the profile of the soil (discs and moldboards), plows that mix it (rotary) and plows that do not alter it (chisels and subsoilers).
a) Plows that invert the profile of the soil: These are those that are made with disc and mouldboard plows. Both teams invert the ground, but with different results, mainly due to their different design. Its operating characteristics cause differences in the quality of the plow, in relation to the inversion, softening and subsequent leveling of the ground.
The most important operating characteristic of disc and chute plows is their ability to bury manure, plant residues, degraded pastures and others. Both teams perform best in the presence of previously cut meadows to avoid "jamming" in the breaking units. The moldboard plow makes an excellent soil investment when operating on land that has not been recently plowed. When used on loose floors, you just move it sideways without inverting it. The opposite happens with the disc plow, it reverses a loose soil very well, causing unevenness of micro relief when used on meadow.
In soils with the presence of obstacles (stones, logs, roots, etc.) that are humid and with a clay texture, the disc plow performs better, since when turning, the breaking unit avoids obstacles and presents less resistance to the soil (the earth sticks less to the disc). Without the presence of these soil limitations, it is preferable to use the moldboard plow that protects the leveling, a factor that can be important when driving irrigation water.
b) Plows that mix the soil profile :
Rotary plows are breaking implements that require great dedication to use, because they subject the soil to excessive manipulation and can alter its structural characteristics. However, when these are used adapting the revolutions to the characteristics of the soil, they turn out to be highly efficient due to their speed and simplicity of use.
The blades attached to a rotor that rotates driven by the tractor shaft, cut pieces of soil and throw them against the plow housing to complete their loosening. The size of the pieces of soil depends on the speed of movement and the revolutions of the rotor. Most designs offer a wide range of rotor revolutions since they are equipped with a gearbox for that purpose. This implement can be used for the chopping of residues and for the destruction of clods, but it requires great power from the tractor's power take-off shaft and alters the structure of the soil, producing an exaggerated softness.
c) Plows that do not alter the soil profile : Chisel and subsoiler plows are tillage equipment that allows the soil to be disintegrated without altering its profile, cracking it by means of the action of one or more chisels attached to a rod or arm attached to a tool holder frame. The difference between both teams lies in the robustness of the structure, depth of work and number of chisels.
This type of work requires relatively dry soils for soil cracks or fractures to occur. Wet floors would be cut by the chisel like a knife, without producing the cracking effect of
drying. However, dry soil offers greater resistance to plowing, which translates into a high demand for power, which increases in direct proportion to the depth of work and the number of chisels on the implement.
The chisel plow is the right tool to destroy “plow foot” type compaction, improve water retention and protect the leveling and structure of the soil. Its main advantage is to deepen the seedbed without inverting the soil or causing unevenness in its surface, which indicates that it can be used first to condition the seed area and later to the desired depth. The separation between the chisels is determined by the length of the cracks or fracture lines produced, the important thing is that the cracks intersect enough to ensure a uniform treatment of the soil.
The subsoiler plow works under 30 cm of depth and is very useful to destroy natural compactions or those produced by the traffic of machinery or animals. It is also used in order to improve drainage, adding a pellet in the boot of this equipment to make underground galleries (mole plow). In this case, as an exception to the rule, work is done on damp soil, since it is not primarily of interest to loosen or crack the soil, but rather to manufacture underground galleries to remove excess water.
The use of the subsoiler on dry soil produces cracks of varying lengths depending on the implement used, humidity and soil texture. To determine the spacing distance between "subsoiler passes", the length of the cracks must be calculated using a trench and the spacing between "passes" should be arranged so that they intersect. The correct working depth of the subsoiler is also of vital importance, since if the boot works very deep and not in the compacted area to be cracked, the work is ineffective. In view of the intense traffic of machinery, typical of modern mechanized agriculture, it is recommended to subsoil the soils every 4 to 5 years.
Equipment for surface work
The basic function of surface work is to prepare the seed area through the use of various types of implements. Soil loosening, leveling, weed control, and the necessary compaction to ensure good crop establishment are its main objectives.
Modern agriculture has a wide range of equipment to fulfill this function, among which are disc harrows, nails, springs, scaffolding, vibro-cultivators, rotary cutters, rotary rakes, levelers, micro-relief levelers, rollers and others.
a) Disc harrow: It is a very common tool in our environment and widely diffused throughout the mumps area. It is used mainly to loosen the soil and control weeds in the seed zone. There are two basic models that differ in the availability of discs and chassis bodies: offset offset disc harrows and tandem disc harrows.
The "efficiency" of the disc harrow depends on several factors: • weight of the equipment • size, concavity, cutting edge and angle of attack (lock) of the discs • working speed • soil moisture content.
This equipment works by cutting narrow strips of soil with lateral displacement of the same to cause its loosening. In addition, they cut the plant residues of the roof into pieces of variable size, depending on the dimensions of the equipment, soil condition and the locking of the harrow bodies. With regard to weed control, this equipment acts on the newly emerged seedlings, uprooting them so that the sun and the wind complete their destruction. It is also possible to use this equipment to chop the meadows as a pre-incorporation task.
Whatever the purpose of its use, it is desirable that the disc harrow acts at the maximum permissible speed and superficially to condition the seed area (tandem harrow). The off-set harrow is more efficient due to its design and weight, which is why it is recommended for use in heavy soils loosening and for the superficial chopping of stubble or vegetation cover. With a heavy off-set harrow properly locked acting on a light soil, a deep work similar to a plow can be carried out that only allows to loosen the soil without inverting it.
Special care must be taken to avoid the excessive use of this equipment, since its aggressiveness considerably affects the structure of the soil, and its cutting nature multiplies asexually reproducing weeds, such as chépica, blackberry and others. There is no justification to use a disc harrow to achieve the desired softness, when operating on loamy textured soils that are easily disintegrated, since there are other equipment with lower operating costs and greater efficiency and quality of work, such as combined harrows. of nails and rollers, vibro-cultivators and others.
b) Combined harrows :
They are highly effective equipment for the adaptation of the seed area. Except in very justified cases, this equipment displaces the disc harrow in its wide range of jobs, due to its cheaper cost and superior performance. Its action is based on the principle of minimum tillage that postulates the performance of several tasks in a single operation. Combination harrows are offered in versions with springs or vibro-activators and with rigid nails. The use of vibro-cultivators is recommended to carry out work a little deeper (10 cm.), In view of its greater aggressiveness, but both models satisfactorily fulfill the mission of conditioning the seed area.
The use of a combined harrow, like the plow, and like all the equipment that works in the seed zone, softening the soil and controlling weeds, is most effective when moving over 8 km / hour, which allows a large capacity of work. Another combination harrow design recently incorporated into national agriculture is the shaft driven rotary nail harrow that takes power from the tractor.
There are a wide variety of designs of the breaking unit, highlighting the horizontal axis rotor system with nails or hoes and the vertical rotating and oscillating nails. The mechanical action of great force that is exerted on the soil, gives this equipment special conditions for the loosening of clods and chopping of meadows, especially under extreme conditions (dry clay soils and dense and hard meadows). Although it is the best tool available to chop grass meadows prior to their incorporation with soil preparation work, it is not convenient to generalize its use, since it consumes a lot of motor energy and puts a special effort on the tractor system. of transmission.
It is not recommended to use a rotary cutter to loosen light-textured soils that disintegrate easily or to control newly emerging seed-breeding weeds, since a combination harrow of fixed nails or springs and rollers can do this at low cost and very quickly, without using the axle, it takes power from the tractor.
c) Spring, nail and roller harrows : They are also very useful to fine-tune the finish of the seed bed. The first two are preferably used to control germinating weeds in their early stages of development. Like combination harrows, it is desirable to operate at high speeds to obtain good soil loosening and weed eradication. The rollers, whether smooth or corrugated, surface or subsurface action, seek to complete the loosening of the soil and compact the seedbed to give it the firmness it needs to support the seeder unit.
The machinery market offers a wide variety of equipment for surface shavings, both motor and animal traction that allow the user to select the tool according to its energy availability. As for the types of rollers most used in our environment, they range from wooden ones, metal ones that can be filled with water and those with a combined action of a spray roller with a double run of corrugated rollers and a spring harrow between them, considered an excellent team to destroy clods and finish the refinement of the seed area.
d) Micro-relief levelers or rakes: Micro-relief levelers are generally used to leave the soil in conditions that allow precision planting, such as beets. In the case of potato sowing, rails or rakes can be used to fine-tune the seed bed at the end of soil preparation. They are generally used after planting to clear the seed furrow left by the planting machine or to compact and smooth the soil surface when planting is done manually.
SPECIFIC PROBLEMS IN SOIL PREPARATION
In potato production there are no relevant problems in soil preparation, which hinder or affect the establishment of the crop, although the preparation work has been carried out with simple machinery or animal traction. The problems generally appear at the time of mechanized harvest, in which the potato is bagged; and it is related to the formation and presence of clods, which behave the same as a tuber, so when carrying out a mechanized harvest with bagging, a large part of them pass into the sack, which later arrive at the winery.
Clay soils with a tendency to lump formation
a) Factors that favor the formation of clods: The formation of clods occurs due to the loss of soil moisture and depends on the texture of the soil and the prevailing climatic conditions (wind). The higher the clay content, the more difficult it is to work the soil and therefore prepare a fluffy seed bed. Clods do not exist naturally in the soil, being the result of poor work done by man. The plows carried out on clayey soils that are too humid and inopportune scrapes accelerate the drying process of the soil, increasing the surface exposed to the wind and sun, facilitating the formation of clods.
Farmers often do not start scraping to loosen the soil until they have finished all the plowing they want to do in the season. This means that the plowed soil is exposed to the wind and the sun for a long period, giving the opportunity for it to dry out more in the part exposed to the air. The work of scraping with discs on this soil condition separates the dry blocks from the wet ones, giving rise to clods, the size of which depends on the clay content of the soil and the leveling achieved by plowing. Moldboard plows allow for a more orderly inversion of the terrain, and are less prone to clod formation.
The presence of hard and dry clods forces the farmer to carry out an excessive number of scrapes with the intention of loosening them, objectives that are not always achieved, increasing tillage costs and accelerating the loss of soil moisture.
b) Methods to avoid the formation of clods:
I) Plow and track at the right time in relation to the percentage of soil moisture using subsurface rollers behind the plow to level and offer less contact surface to the wind.
II) When the soil is friable, carry out a single harrow to achieve the desired softness. It is recommended to use combination nail harrows and sub-surface rollers immediately after plowing.
III) Use wooden rakes and / or rollers attached behind a disc harrow to "iron" the ground and prevent moisture loss.
The opportunity of the scrapes in relation to the moisture content of the soil is essential to avoid the formation of clods.
c) Methods to destroy clods on dry soils in the entire topsoil.
I) Irrigation: Return the moisture lost to the clod to bring it to a friable level that is easy to fluff through artificial irrigation. This method, however, delays cultivation and increases the number of soil preparation tasks, since it is inevitable to re-plow the soil to loosen it and destroy the compaction produced by irrigation.
II) To soften the dry clod by means of the impact of motor-powered equipment, for example, the rototiller or rotary plows.
III) Pressure exerted on the dry clods by a leveling equipment or roller. The latter case has given excellent results using the leveler - chisel plow combination on very clay dry soils. Also in the above cases, it is appropriate to use a chisel plow after watering or after the rototiller, in order to deepen and loosen the soil.
d) Methods to destroy clods on dry soils in the superficial layer (8-10 cm) and humid in the base.
I) If there is no humidity in the first centimeters of the soil, there is sufficient humidity in the lower layers of the soil, it can be rolled to introduce the clods in the humid zone and then trace it, when the clods have
been impregnated with enough moisture to recover friable condition.
II) It is also possible to resort to "crossing" to bring moist soil to the surface and be able to soften it later, by means of superficial scrapes.
In summary, it is important to carry out the scraping work in a timely manner, which will subsequently soften the soil based on a high number of tasks, since this implies a misuse of equipment and high operating costs.
Soils with a high degree of infestation of seed-reproducing weeds a) Contamination of the soil with weed seeds : It is practically impossible to eliminate the problem of seed-reproducing weeds by applying mechanical tillage methods, due to the permanent infestation of new weed seeds brought by the wind, irrigation water and animals. Soil preparation is only intended to retard weed development to give a growth advantage to the crop to be established.
The weeds that seed in the abandoned stubble and those transported by irrigation water are the only ones possible to control by man, since they are deposited on the surface of the soil and are buried with the plowshares and distributed uniformly throughout the profile arable.
Despite the entire profile of the seedbed being contaminated, only the seeds that are in the first few centimeters can germinate and the rest waits stratified for their opportunity to germinate. The seed can retain its germination power for several seasons as long as the conditions are not in place for it to be activated.
b) Measures to control weed contamination
I) Use adequate cultural rotations in order to create unfavorable environments for the development of weeds.
II) Process, with clearing equipment, the stubble immediately after the harvest is finished and repeat the operation as many times as necessary, to prevent the weeds from seeding.
c) Opportunity to control germinating weeds : The weed seeds present on the surface are activated by the humidity and temperature of the soil, a phenomenon that occurs when this area is prepared for cultivation. Once the germination of the weeds is activated, the process is irreversible, that is, from that moment the situation can be controllable.
Being easier to control the weed when it is germinated or just emerged; It is advisable to do a leveling work 10 days before sowing to provoke the germination of the weed seeds, with the compaction and loosening effect of this equipment.
Soil moisture also has a great influence on the effectiveness of weed control by harrowing. If the soil is very wet or it rains after raking, the action is canceled, since the roots of the uprooted weeds return to their initial position. If the soil is dry, there is no point in scraping since the seeds have not yet been activated.
d) Weed control methods with harrowing tasks : The weed control carried out by the different types of harrows mentioned above, consists of uprooting the seedlings and leaving their bare roots exposed to the action of the sun and the wind for their definitive destruction. It is a mistake to think that the mission of these teams is to crush or chop the weeds, destroying them with blows. From the foregoing, the importance of tracking growth and humidity at the right time, to obtain a successful control, follows.
Each movement of the soil removes new weed seeds to the surface layers, leaving them in conditions to germinate, so it is advisable to carry out the soil preparation work from greater to less depth, in relation to the control of germinating weeds. It is not intended to carry out deep work after surface scrapes that have the mission of controlling weed seeds germinated on the surface, since this work will deposit new weed seeds brought from lower layers, canceling the action of the previous control.
It is advisable to plow only once and do the job well, to avoid a cross that would have the effect of nullifying the control of germinating weeds carried out by the scrapers. After this plowing and when soil moisture is advisable, increasingly superficial scrapers should be administered, preferably using combined harrows of nails and springs, of great efficiency and performance. From the point of view of germinating weed control, one scrape after another should not be applied, since it is necessary to allow time for the weed seeds that were in a favorable position to germinate.
Soils with meadows
It is common to find seed beds with a large amount of residues from the paste on their surface, which makes the operation of the seeder machine difficult. This problem is caused by directly breaking the meadow with a disc plow and distributing residues or grass champas throughout the profile. From that moment the problem of the champas is out of control, since a new plow to bury the residues of the surface, can remove those that are already buried. Despite the number of scrapes applied after plowing, the champas will remain in the profile for two main reasons:
to. The harrow needs a hard surface to hit the grass against in order to cut it into small pieces and the loose soil, removed by the plow, will act as a shock absorber preventing this objective from being achieved. b. The decomposition of organic matter is very slow in the south, where this problem is typical, such that the waste persists for several months without decomposing. In the case of natural grasslands, it is convenient to crush the weeds superficially with a disc harrow, rototiller, or rotary cutters, expose them to the action of the sun and wind for a few days, and then incorporate them with a deep plowing work. It is recommended to do these tasks at the end of summer. Plowing can be replaced by the use of chemical fallow.
The scraping should be practiced superficially in the first 8 cm of the ground, so as to always have a hard surface against which to hit, to get a better cut of the champa. In the case of using a tandem disc harrow, which is more effective than the offset harrow for this task, it should be adjusted with a low angle of attack (lock) and proceed to carry out the work 2 to 3 times, passing in a crossed direction. In the same way, it can be replaced by a vibro cultivator that can be more efficient and faster. The harrow passes must be spaced apart to allow the action of the wind and sun on the debris.
For the subsequent incorporation of the chopped material, it is preferable to use a disc plow, since it inverts the soil very well when it is loose and without the mooring of the root mass of the pasture.
Soils with vegetative reproduction weeds
To prepare soils that have a vegetation cover with vegetative reproduction weeds such as chépica, onion grass, yarrow, among others; One must be very careful in the selection of tillage implements, since the rotary discs and harrows chop the roots, spreading weeds that multiply very easily. In these cases, the use of tools such as the mouldboard plow and the nail and spring harrow to uproot the chépica is recommended. Chemical fallow with the use of Glyphosate (Roundup, Rango) is a very good alternative in this situation since it efficiently controls grass weeds. When there are more complicated broadleaf weeds, Glyphosate can be mixed with 2,4-D (amine or ester), Ally, Ajax, Aliado, Tordon 24-K, MCPA.
Soils with compaction type «plow foot»
The compaction produced by the repetitive action of a plow that always works at the same depth, creates important problems for crops. It is advisable to perform subsoiling work at least once every 5 years to soils subjected to intense machinery work and / or with animals in direct grazing. In the same way, the permanent passage of the chisel plow should largely solve this problem, provided that the plowing is carried out on dry ground and at the speed recommended by its manufacturer. The method takes advantage of the characteristic of the chisel plow that does not alter the soil profile, to reverse the traditional process of plowing first and then tracking.
The residue is chopped, buried and the seed area is traced, and then chiselled in depth, taking advantage of the fact that the first centimeters are loose and offer less resistance to the implement. Another interesting aspect proposed in this method is the replacement of the disc harrow by the leveling harrow, which does an excellent job of tuning.
On soils with stubble on the surface
Chopping up the residue before plowing is always a good method because it uses the resource in favor of the soil and facilitates the investment of the plow. Not processing the residues complicates the operation of the plow and remains of the stubble remain on the surface.
ORGANIZATION OF MECHANIZED TILLAGE WORKS
One of the typical problems that farmers who want to start preparing a planting bed must face is the choice of the direction or direction of work. Several factors should be considered to solve this problem, among which are: the conservation and protection of the soil, the work capacity or performance of the equipment and the quality of the work carried out.
Factors determining the direction of work
a) Soil conservation and work direction: When the soil is removed by the tillage implements, it can eventually be washed away by rain or irrigation water, and lost through erosion. If the plowing with discs or moldboards or other work that leaves grooves in the direction of work, is carried out on soils with a steep slope, the orientation of the contour lines or the direction of the least slope should be chosen. In this way it is avoided that the rainwater descends at high speed through the furrows, dragging the soil and forming cracks that are almost impossible to recover. In addition, the tractor or draft animals have greater difficulty working against the slope (uphill).
b) Direction of work and performance of teams: The work capacity of a team, or the time it takes for it to cover a given area, is measured in hours per hectare or hectares per hour. The working capacity depends on the speed, working width and time lost in non-productive actions, such as turning on the paddock heads with the implement raised.
This last factor, which is also called field efficiency, affects the final performance of the equipment, since the width and working speed must be kept fixed depending on the power of the tractor. From the point of view of work capacity, to avoid lost time due to turns with the implement raised, the tasks should be oriented in the direction of the greater length of the paddock. Another technique that avoids excessive loss of time at the ends of the paddock is to leave wide heads to allow the tractor to turn without resorting to gear changes or use of the clutch, and to prevent unnecessary deterioration of the transmission system. They can also be left wide heads and sides, of equal measure, in order to later close the work by circulating around the worked ground.
c) Direction of work and quality of work
Plowing: When this task is carried out with a chisel plow, which does not produce unevenness in the ground due to its symmetrical condition, its quality is not affected mainly by the direction of the work. The same does not happen with the disc and mouldboard plow that require a method to avoid unevenness on the surface. The cross that corresponds to a second plow to rectify or increase the depth of the seedbed, it is advisable to apply it in a direction perpendicular to the first one, in order to achieve a better penetration of the plow, provided that a raking to improve the surface leveling of the terrain
The subsoiler plow should preferably be used in the "direction" of the greatest length of land to improve performance. However, it is advisable to use it in the direction of the slope when its function is to improve the drainage of a flat floor.
Scraping: As its function is to loosen and even the soil, it is convenient to apply it in a 45 degree direction to the plowing line; in this way, the tractor wheels are prevented from falling simultaneously into the traversed furrows, which causes sudden movements that impair operator comfort and machine maintenance. Furthermore, a better leveling effect is achieved than when operating in any other working direction. The combined harrows and rollers can be used in any direction since this does not influence the quality of your work, being more important in these cases, the performance of the equipment and the speed of movement.
Leveling: Leveling a previously plowed and traced soil generally requires 2 to 3 passes with the equipment to achieve an acceptable correction of the micro relief.
Tillage reduction
Potato cultivation has been characterized by the excessive use of soil preparation work, mainly with traditional systems that implied the use of a moldboard or disk plow and the practice of crossing and recruiting.
Trials carried out in the 70s and 80s by INIA Carillanca and the Austral University of Chile indicated that it was feasible to reduce the number of soil preparation tasks without affecting crop yields. At present, such a reduction has been reached, that with only one work of a rotary cutter with 35 cm tines, it allows the soil to be left in conditions to carry out the planting of potatoes.
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How to Cut Firewood for Fireplaces?
If we want to live a unique experience lighting and preparing our fireplace, we must start by cutting the wood that we will use to light it. But how can we cut the wood for fireplaces? Stay to discover a few simple, quick and easy steps!
Attention! Would you rather buy your firewood?
First of all, if you are one of those people who prefers to buy firewood and forget about the cutting and storing process, Bingo! We have the best firewood for you (see on Amazon) at the best possible price.Don't hesitate to take a look!
What materials will you need?
Cutting firewood for a fireplace is a somewhat dangerous process in depending on which cases, we deal with all kinds of sharp elements such as axes or chainsaws, therefore, we must bear in mind that our safety will be paramount, so you will need:
Work gloves
Work boots
Safety glasses
Chainsaw (optional)
handsaw
Ax
Methods for Cutting Firewood
There are different methods of cutting firewood, some will involve more effort, others more time, investment in machinery, among others. However, here we explain the most common and most accessible methods so that you can choose which one best suits your needs:
Chopping Firewood With Ax
Chopping wood with an ax has been the most rustic and widespread cutting method in the world since ancient times. If you want to live this experience because you don't have more tools yet. Here are the best tips:
First, you will have to position a block of wood to use as a base to carry out the cutting of the firewood. Bear in mind that if you place the firewood logs on a soft surface or ground, it can be terribly damaged in the event that the ax comes into contact with it.
Next, place the log of firewood that you want to cut on top of the block in the way or support that you are going to use and prepare to execute the cut. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and facing the log.
Next, hold the ax correctly with both hands placing your dominant hand on top of your non-dominant hand.
Look at the natural lines in the wood, as these tell you which parts of the wood are easier to cut.
Once we have located these (if there are any) we will prepare to make the cut , you must raise the ax to your head and lower it with a sharp blow.
Pros and Cons of Chopping Firewood with an Ax
Although chopping firewood with an ax is the most rustic and ancient method, today many fire lovers continue to use it. It is a fairly effective cutting method since depending on the ax blade the cut can be done quite cleanly.
However, it is a slow process , in which we will have to dedicate enough time and work to obtain a considerable amount of firewood to keep our fireplace burning. On the other hand, it takes quite a bit of force to make clean cuts, meaning a cut with little force will simply cause the ax blade to get stuck in the log and be difficult to remove.
Therefore, if you have time and want to spend a morning doing this work, you can take it as one more experience. However, if you want to get firewood fast, this is not your best method.
Cutting Firewood with a Manual Saw
The manual saw will allow you to cut the wood for your fireplace in a faster way and without the need for so much physical effort:
Another of the most used tools in terms of cutting firewood is the saw. In the same way as in the previous section, we must find a hard and immovable base where to place the pieces of firewood that we want to cut.
In the case of saws, the continuous shaking will hinder an easy cut, therefore, if we can find two supports that can hold the logs of firewood at both ends, it would be of great help.
Once the logs are attached, we will have to start cutting them. The most optimal thing is to make the cut in the middle since both parts will have a similar size and suitable to light any fireplace
Pros and Cons of Chopping Firewood with a Hand Saw
Cutting with a manual saw will save you more physical effort than any other method, in addition to providing you with a faster cut and being able to create a greater amount of firewood in less time.
However, finding a support base to carry out this cut can be a bit difficult since both ends of the firewood must be perfectly fitted to prevent the log from moving and making it impossible to carry out a clean cut.
In addition, the log that we must cut with this manual saw should not be extremely large or hard as it will be impossible to cut them, the sandpaper will be stuck practically in the middle of the trunk.
Cutting Firewood with an Electric Chainsaw
Finally, the electric chainsaw has been one of the best technological advances for lovers of cutting firewood. Here we leave you an explanatory video so you can see its effectiveness:
We should find a stable base to position the firewood that we want to cut.
Once our trunk is centered, it would be a matter of turning on the electric or gasoline chainsaw and keeping the corresponding safety distance sliding it smoothly and slowly over the piece of trunk that we want to cut.
Pros and Cons of Chopping Wood with an Electric Chainsaw
The electric chainsaw is undoubtedly the best tool par excellence to achieve clean and effective cuts of the firewood that we are collecting. In less than you would have ever imagined, you will already have a large mountain of firewood that you can stack for future uses.
However, the initial investment of these is quite high compared to hand saws or axes. Bearing in mind that you are looking for effectiveness and getting the greatest number of firewood in the shortest time possible, the electric chainsaw is without a doubt the most suitable tool for this job.
If you are a fireplace lover and you love having firewood always available, one of the best investments you will make for the future is to buy an electric chainsaw to cut firewood and have your fireplace always stocked with wood .
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Guide to cutting firewood this winter
Cutting and storing firewood can be a challenge if we do not know all the aspects involved, from the species of tree to be felled to the implements to use, in which case we can consider renting tools .
Therefore, if we want to have the best natural heating during Madrid's cold and dry winter, it is important that we read the following Guide to cutting firewood this winter , where we will offer the best tips, techniques and tools.
Arrange everything you need: evaluate tool rental
Before starting the work, it is important to think about everything we need , from the storage space so that the firewood is kept in good condition, the implements we will need, if we will buy or rent tools, and even the time that the work will require.
Once we have all this well analyzed and prepared, we can start with the task, an arduous task but that will become easier depending on our own attitude and disposition .
Handling of firewood: cutting, storage and drying
The other great key to having good firewood is knowing how to get its best performance. For this we must be clear that a firewood that is too humid will burn with great difficulty and will emit less heat during the combustion process.
Likewise, contrary to what is usually thought, a too dry firewood is not favorable , since in this case its combustion will be very fast, there will be a great waste of heat and we will end up wasting everything in a few hours.
Next, we will go on to study the three basic aspects for the correct functioning of the firewood: the cutting of the wood, the storage and the drying process .
When to cut the firewood?
you need these gardening tools this summer to cut firewoodChopping firewood is a science that requires knowing the inner workings of the tree. The most advisable thing is to cut the wood in winter , taking into account that during this period the sap has descended to prepare for the hot season.
In spring and especially in summer, the trees are full of sap, which moistens the wood. That is why it takes a long time to achieve favorable drying.
In short: the tree is cut down in winter and remains that way until spring, when we must divide the wood . We let it dry until the following winter, the perfect time to burn it.
If instead of cutting down the tree on our own, we prefer to buy the firewood either for convenience or because we have enough space to store it, the best way to ensure good conditions for the firewood is to buy it a year in advance .
This gives us two important advantages: first, we give the firewood enough time to dry, and second, it allows us to save because we can buy in volume.
Firewood storage
The storage of firewood requires different care depending on the site. The most important thing is that it is stored in a space that allows air flow and is protected from rain , so that moisture can escape.
If it is stored outside, we must use a waterproof cover, but taking care that air can pass through. We must bear in mind that the firewood must never come into direct contact with the ground.
As for indoor storage, it is important to have a dehumidification and air flow system , in this way we avoid mold and promote drying. In the same way, we will take special care with the appearance of insects that can damage the firewood.
Take into account that if we place the firewood directly on the ground, it can absorb moisture. That is why it is recommended to arrange it on a slightly elevated surface, for example, on pallets.
Firewood drying times
We already cut, divide and store our firewood. What do we do now? Wait for the drying. At this point we have to be especially careful to guarantee the perfect performance of the material. Firewood takes 6 to 8 months to dry.
To get an idea, the wood that we put out to dry in early spring will be ready to be used most effectively when the following winter starts, or even late fall.
The science of chopping wood
Although we already talked about when to cut firewood, in this section we will focus on how, from choosing the best tree to some tips for choosing and using tools, in order to make the process easier and safer.
Choosing the best firewood
DiY San Valentín - Majo Rentals MadridThe most important thing when selecting the tree from which we will extract our firewood is that it is healthy and not rotten . The firewood should not be too hard or too soft ; the ideal is a middle ground.
Hard wood , such as birch or beech, is excellent at generating heat, but high temperatures can damage or burn the stove. In addition, they are consumed very quickly if what we want is to maintain temperatures for a long period of time.
For its part, soft firewood (firs, pines) contains less fuel value, so they provide little heat. Therefore, a mixture of both types of firewood is suggested.
Safe use of tools
In this regard, there are many elements to consider, from the purchase or rental of tools, to the large number of tools that have evolved greatly from the ax and the saw. Later, we will offer a complete catalog of tools for cutting firewood , for now, we will limit ourselves to giving some practical advice.
We must choose a chainsaw that allows us to fell, limb and make cross cuts . Here we must be especially careful, especially if we are not professionals and we are not used to using chainsaws. A bad job could cause damage to the machine or, worse, to ourselves.
As safety must be our premise, we must pay attention to the clothes and utensils we use when cutting firewood. Protective equipment should include a helmet, ear muffs, goggles, appropriate clothing and footwear with safety and protection elements.
The division
After being cut, the firewood should be divided for more practical use. The ax is still the perfect tool for this task. You also need a raised surface on which to place and cut the pieces.
An important tip at this point is not to use too much force when using the ax; but to let the same weight of the ax work alone . In this way we avoid injuring ourselves and getting excessively tired.
When we have to work with larger logs, the ax will be small and we will have to use the chainsaw.
Well, we are ready to cut firewood, dry it, store it and consume it. Now, we will know the main tools used to handle wood.
Tools needed for handling and cutting wood
We already knew the ax and the chainsaw, but believe it or not, it takes a lot of other things to handle the wood safely and get the best pieces of firewood.
The first thing is to have a clean, stable and safe workspace; then, protect your whole body, from head to toe . To guarantee this, we need several things. It is here when we can consider the rental of tools , as a strategy to save money and facilitate work with the latest technology.
Hooks and clips for logs
Prune treeThese tools allow you to save time when handling firewood, as well as protecting your fingers and hands from being crushed. The hooks and clips are made up of one or more claws and a handle.
The hooks drive directly into the wood and make it easy to hold the log for transfer to storage or cutting. The clamps, on the other hand, are articulated , so that when they are hooked on the log, the weight of this squeezes them when lifting it.
When buying them, you should consider that their maximum opening is adequate for the diameters of the wood with which you work. It also ensures that the handle is wide and ergonomic.
Log trestle
The base on which we work is a vital factor of safety, to the point that instability can be the cause of serious accidents . Therefore, you must have a log trestle at the time you go to chop the wood, either manually or mechanically.
In this way we can guarantee that the log will remain horizontal, without the possibility of sliding . The easel can be found in metal or wood, it is convenient that it has fastening hooks and that it is adapted to the diameter of the wood with which you usually work.
The ax
It is a classic that does not go out of style and is the typical representation of the lumberjack. It is recommended to use it with small amounts of dry, white wood . The log is placed in a vertical position and with a good blow of the ax it should be opened.
However, you have to know how to master the technique that can be dangerous if you are not used to it . The most suitable is the so-called splitting ax, with a blade that is sharp on one side to penetrate the wood, and with a widened shape to finish dividing the parts.
Depending on the size of the wood, we could use a short model that weighs no more than 2 kilos (hand ax) if the piece of log is small; or a long model for everything else.
Hammer ax
The ax hammer is the quintessential manual splitter, as it is specially designed to split logs . Its correct use guarantees perfect performance
In terms of appearance, it resembles a normal ax, although it combines two tools: mace and ax . The hammer is perfect for hitting wedges; while the ax side cuts through the wood.
Its weight should also be chosen according to the diameters of the wood that we usually use. It ranges between 2.5 and 4 kilograms for the largest models, while its length is normally 90 centimeters.
Wedges
Wedges are the ideal companions for the ax hammer or hammer, as they will help you to pre-split the most difficult logs . The "breaking" wedges are special for splitting the wood lengthwise; They are made of tempered steel and we can find various types.
On the market we find straight flat-tipped wedges, straight sharp-tipped wedges and helical wedges, the best for splitting wood.
Mace
The mallet is used to strike and sink the wedges. If you don't have an ax hammer, you can combine the mace with an ax . The most efficient mallet should be strong, with a length of approximately 90 centimeters and a weight of between 3 and 4 kilos.
Log saw
Also called a garden saw or bow saw, this tool has a steel frame and a blade with huge teeth, which make it very good for cutting small diameter pieces of firewood , no larger than 20 centimeters.
Thermal or electric saw
It has an electric or thermal motor that drives a circular blade with a diameter of between 40 and 70 centimeters . The logs are placed on a trestle with an adjustable stop that corresponds to the desired cutting length.
Chainsaw
In this case, the principle of operation is the same, since a motor puts into action a support called a sword. The wildcard chainsaw, with a bar less than 18 inches, is used for ordinary tasks.
It is ideal for chopping firewood, cutting branches and even cutting down not very thick trees . It is operated with two hands, and the most powerful models, with more than 2,500 W, require vigilance and extreme care.
Get your tools to cut firewood with Majo Rentals
Having all the utensils to cut firewood, in addition to being very cumbersome, is not always possible due to the high costs. Thinking about it, at Majo Rentals we are experts in the rental of tools in Madrid , for all tasks inside and outside the home.
Our specialists offer you everything you need to reform your spaces , in addition to the professional advice you require for the correct care and operation of the tools.
Rentals MAJO is responsible for the rental of tools and machinery for all types of jobs , from the most everyday to construction, gardening and cleaning works; of course at the best prices.
A safe and easy way to make kindling with no moving blade or sharpened object passing by your hands
Splits firewood with less force than a standard axe
6.5in. inside diameter top ring
Made of high-quality cast iron in Australia
Virtually maintenance-free
How to cut firewood from a log
Many people see the sharp wedge at the end of an ax handle and think that cutting wood for firewood is easy. You just have to take the ax, lift it over your head and strike down, right? However, if you don't have the correct technique, you could spend a whole day chopping wood with nothing more than a sore back. What's more, without the correct technique, you could seriously injure yourself. Better to chop wood correctly to be safe, save time and effort, and avoid ailments.
Method 1 Chopping wood with an ax
1 Get ready. Not only will you need logs of the appropriate length (about the length of your forearm) and your trusty ax, but you will also need to use the following safety tools:
work gloves;
work boots;
safety glasses (optional but recommended).
2 Find a block of wood to cut the firewood and put it in an appropriate place. If you don't already have a block to cut, you can choose a large, thick piece of uncut wood. A wide stump is also an excellent base for chopping firewood.
If you choose to use a thick piece of wood, make sure it is knotty, as it will be much more resistant to the force of the ax and will last longer as a cutting block.
Elm wood has particular grains that make it resistant to cuts. If you have a piece of this type of wood at your fingertips, take advantage of it. [1]
You can wrap a recycled tire around the top edge of the chopping block to stabilize pieces of firewood that don't stay vertical when you lay them on the surface. [2]
A cutting block should always give a little; If it has too hard a surface, it could damage your ax or even injure you if the ax is deflected.
3 Put the firewood in the right place. Take the piece of firewood you want to cut and position it so that it remains stable on the chopping block. You may need to make some adjustments to find the perfect position due to natural irregularities that occur during wood growth, such as cracks or knots. The log should be as stable as possible, with the area you are hitting pointing up, where you will begin the cut.
4 Stand in front of the firewood and the chopping block. Make sure there are no branches, loose stones, slippery mud, or anything else on the ground that could cause you to slip. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart facing the wood and chopping block. [3]
It is important that your legs are separated to the height of your shoulders. A piece of firewood that is not stable or has uneven grains or knots in the wood can cause the ax to twist when you strike. Keeping your legs shoulder width apart is one way to ensure that the ax does not land on your legs or feet.
5 Hold the ax correctly. Take the ax with both hands; Place your dominant hand near your head and your non-dominant hand toward the lower end of the handle. To hit properly, you must allow your dominant hand to move along the handle to your other hand, which should stay in place. In this way, you will have more control and the blow will be stronger. [4]
6 Look at the grain of the wood. Be aware of any knots or branches, as these will make the firewood much more difficult to cut. For knotty cutting, your best bet is to focus on the area between the knots or branches where the grain is smoothest. [5]
Cracks or small cracks in the wood are the ideal place to strike with the ax.
The easiest wood to cut has smooth grain and the grain is consistent and regular.
7 Prepare to strike. Focus on the goal. Place the ax to the side of your dominant hand and lift it over your shoulder in a steady, even arcing motion. [6] Hold the ax firmly before striking and make sure your posture is stable and your legs are shoulder width apart.
Another acceptable technique is to lift the ax directly over your head and then hit the piece of wood.
8 Strike with the ax. Bring the ax down quickly and firmly, allowing your dominant hand to move along the handle, toward the other hand. Focus on where you want to strike until the ax gets there. [7]
Depending on the thickness of the wood and the number of knots it has, you may need to repeat the blow one or more times to cut the wood.
Method 2 Cutting sturdy pieces of firewood with a wedge
one Evaluate what you need. If you are cutting full-size wood, unless the wood has more knots than usual or it is a cut-resistant type of wood (such as elm), you will not need a wedge. On the other hand, if the firewood is hard and you can only make cuts and cracks with the ax, but do not cut it completely, you will have to use other tools. 0 2 Gather your supplemental firewood chopping tools. If you can't do the job with just an ax, you should get a long metal wedge and a mallet. You can get them at a local hardware store, or perhaps borrow them from a neighbor.
3 Identify a central crack or a promising cut. Even if the ax doesn't go through the piece of wood and cut it completely, if you managed to land a few hits, you may have made at least a few deep cuts or a crack in the wood. Find the deepest cut or crack in the firewood. This is where you should cut. [8]
For some particularly large or sturdy pieces, you may need more than one wedge.
4 Insert the wedge. Since the wood will be softer than the wedge, you will probably have no problem placing it in the cut or crack that you chose as a cutting point. If you are trying to cut a particularly hard type of wood, you may need to insert the wedge using a mallet. [9]
5 Prepare to strike with the mallet. Assume the same posture as cutting with the ax: keep your legs shoulder-width apart, place your dominant hand near the head of the mallet, fix your gaze on the wedge, and lift the mallet over your shoulder. [10]
6 Hit with the mallet. Allow your dominant hand to move along the handle, toward your non-dominant hand, which should be fixed, and hit the wedge with a quick, firm movement. [eleven]
In this way, you will need to drive the wedge deeper into the piece of firewood, causing the cut to become a crack or the existing crack to enlarge.
You may need to hit several times with the mallet to be able to drive the wedge even deeper into the wood.
7 Separate the firewood if necessary. Sometimes the wedge breaks the knot and cuts the wood completely. Other times you must manually finish breaking an almost completely cut piece. In some cases, you may need to use your ax carefully to separate uncut pieces.
Method 3 Using a hydraulic log cutter
one Read the manual. Each firewood cutting machine is a little different from the others and if you know its characteristics, as well as the correct way to operate it, you can use it safely. Whenever you use these types of machines, be extremely careful, as a mistake can lead to serious injury. [12]
2 Review security procedures. Before starting the machine, make sure the path is clear of objects, that the deck panels are in place, and that you wear the correct safety gear to operate the machine. [13] In general, these implements are:
relatively tight clothing;
safety glasses;
work gloves.
3 Add fuel or start the machine. Some firewood cutters work like attachments to a tractor. Others are powered by electricity or gas. Do not leave the fuel or the power cord in any place where it can trip you or become entangled with the parts of the machine. [14]
4 Gather the firewood. Once you have read the manual, you will know the procedure to follow to operate the machine. In this way you will know what is the best way to put the firewood in the hydraulic cutter. Collect the pieces of firewood in the most convenient place for the machine.
5 Turn on the cutter. Start the machine and see how it works normally without placing the firewood. Make sure everything appears to be working properly and verify that it is as the manual indicates. [fifteen]
6 Place the firewood in the cutter. Follow the instructions in the manual for placing uncut firewood in the machine and removing it once it is cut. Regardless of the type of gear you use, once you turn it on, always be careful while around. [16]
Tips
Choose the most suitable ax for the job. Identify when you should use a normal ax, a double-edged one, a mallet, a wedge, among others.
Pay attention to the ground and be careful if you see an uneven area. Also, be aware of where the people around you are.
Learn from an adult or someone with experience using axes.
Never stand behind someone while using an ax.
Use a sharp ax. Dull, your tool could slip, bounce and cause a more serious injury than if it were sharp. If you are not sure how to sharpen an ax, ask for help.
When using an ax to chop wood, if you strike by tilting the head of the ax slightly to the side, it will be less likely to get stuck in the chopping block, but small pieces of wood will be thrown out.
Let the ax do the work. In other words, take a quick, controlled strike and relax just before the ax hits the wood. In the last seconds of the hit, you are simply a guide. This will prevent the additional impact of the blow from being transferred to your muscles and you will be able to chop wood for longer.
Warnings
Do not put your hand or fingers on the piece of wood you are going to cut to support it or keep it stable. You could seriously injure yourself or even cut your finger while chopping wood, since to do this, you usually hold the smaller pieces with one hand while using the ax with the other. If you instead hold the piece of wood loosely by the sides, any accident would simply cause you to hit your gloved hand without causing further damage.
Never stand behind or too close to someone while using an ax.
Wear thick gloves, boots or shoes, and goggles.
If you have severe back problems, do not attempt this unless you are completely confident that you have the physical ability to chop wood.
Stand with your legs apart and place the firewood you want to cut in the middle. This way, if the firewood falls or if you miss the target, there is less chance that you will hit yourself and break your leg as the ax continues its course.
Do not use a dull or damaged ax. Before using it, examine the head and handle, as well as the method applied to join them.
