VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard

 VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10" x 20.75" MET Standard

•  RELIABLE RESULTS: VIVOSUN’s professional heat mat maintains temperatures in the sweet spot of around 20-30℃（68-86℉）- perfect for seed starting and cutting propagation
• STABLE, UNIFORM HEAT: VIVOSUN's strengthened heating film ensure this durable mat never scorches your roots and produces lots of revitalizing dew when used with a humidity dome
• BUILT TO LAST: Supple, flexible and ultra-durable, VIVOSUN goes beyond stringent MET standards, water-resistance that enables safe scrubbing and a 1-year warranty；This product didn't specify any expiration date
• BEST SAVINGS IN THE MARKET: This 10" x 20.75" mat is perfect for standard 1020 trays and slightly larger than comparable mats on the market; It also runs on only 18 Watts to help you save on electricity
• INNOVATIVE HEATING: With radiate far-infrared light wave, making the heat source softer, and proving the seeds with enough heat, it can be heated up to 40 ℃（104℉）at an ambient temperature of 20-25 ℃（68-77℉）in minutes; Recommended for use with VIVOSUN's thermostat

How to help your indoor plants through the winter

During the winter the days get shorter, the temperatures drop and the houses are heated. All these conditions make life more difficult for indoor plants. A little care will help them get through this time.

The perfect location

Many plants use this low light season as a resting phase. They stop growth and reduce metabolism. Indoor plants prefer a slightly warm environment, while people generally like to have a very warm indoor temperature. For a large number of plants it is sufficient to place them further from the radiator. If you have plants in front of a window, make sure it doesn't get a cold breeze. Also keep in mind that the leaves do not touch the cold window, otherwise the plant will have a thermal shock and its leaves will turn brown and fall off. The root ball of the plant should not be located in a cold place, nor too hot. The most sensitive plants react with the loss of their leaves.

Proper maintenance

Indoor plants don't need as much water in winter. That is why you should check the soil moisture before watering them.

The air dries up due to the heating. This is uncomfortable for humans and plants. There are a few ways to make it more enjoyable. One way is to fill a plate with clay granules and water and put it under the pot. The water evaporates and moistens the air.

Another possibility is to spray the plant with warm softened water a couple of times a week. The spray mist prevents the plant from losing a large amount of moisture, covering the leaves. This also works against unwanted dust that reduces light. Therefore you should regularly clean the dust with a damp cloth. By doing this, photosynthesis will not be affected.

Especially in winter, small animals such as spider mites or mealybugs are comfortable in indoor plants. Pests multiply rapidly in hot, dry air. The best bet is to check the leaves and soil once a week. If the leaves have sticky spots, they indicate a pest infestation. In this case, you must separate the plant from the others, put them in the bathtub and give it a shower. Before starting the shower, put a plastic bag around the pot so that the plant does not absorb too much water. In case of not getting rid of pests, a suitable pesticide can be purchased. To avoid infestation by aphids pests you can place pieces of garlic in the pot. Make sure they are covered by soil so the garlic smell stays in the pot.

• Here we have summarized the most important points
• Do not water too much
• Increase humidity
• The plant should not be placed in too cold / hot soils
• Avoid gusts of cold
• Beware of pests
• Make sure the plants have enough light

How to protect plants from the cold

If the weather is too cold or if your plants are too delicate, there are things you can do to help your garden get through the winter. It all depends on how delicate the plants are, how cold the climate is, how long the low temperatures will last, and how much energy and time you are willing to invest. No help will be enough to protect the growth of certain plants in certain climates, but in many cases a little extra care can help temporarily.

Protect Plants from the Cold Step 1

1
Bring potted plants indoors. The first and easiest solution to the cold is simply to protect the plants from low temperatures. If you have potted plants or hanging baskets outside, put them indoors. Even moving them to the garage or onto a verandah is beneficial as it carries a temperature rise of at least 10 Fahrenheit (5 degrees Celsius). If possible, the best solution is to place the plants inside the house as decoration. They will get the necessary heat without taking up additional space.

• Place potted plants near windows according to their solar needs. Windows facing east and west receive the most light, while windows facing north and south receive the least.
• Avoid placing potted plants near vents, as they can dry out and begin to die.
• Placing plants too close to the window can be harmful if it's very cold outside. Freezing temperatures can travel from the window to the plant if they are in contact.

2
Lay out a layer of mulch . Mulch serves as an insulator, retaining heat and moisture from the soil. It is used to protect the root system of plants from cold temperatures. Sometimes the low temperatures are not what damages the plant, but the freeze-thaw cycle that affects the soil and causes it to "reject" the plant. Likewise, cold soil can prevent water from spreading easily from the plant. Regardless of the reason, applying a layer of mulch that is 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) thick will prevent these problems.

• Mulch made from wheat or pine straw works well, being easy to remove when the soil is ready to be rediscovered. Also, it traps heat well.
• Some plants, like roses and strawberries, can get through the winter by covering them completely with clean mulch.
• Isolation works in both directions. It prevents the floor from cooling down too quickly, but it also prevents it from heating up early when the time comes. It is advisable to move it away from the plant when spring begins to warm. [one]

3
Cover the plants. Put an old sheet, blanket, or canopy over delicate plants. If the plants need to be protected from a few especially cold nights, a simple shelter like an old sheet may suffice. Choose the cover and spread it carefully so that it does not touch the leaves or branches of the plant. You may need to put in some stakes to support it if you don't want it to damage the plants. This method works best for frost protection rather than low temperatures, as the cover will not raise the temperature much.

• Remove it during the day so that the plants get air and light.
• You may need to put weight on it or tie the blanket so it doesn't fly off.

4
Build a nursery or greenhouse. Build a simple temporary nursery by bending metal poles into arches and embedding the ends in the soil along the rows of the garden. Then, place a clear plastic sheet over the arches to enclose the plant. This serves to trap heat and block frost and is the best solution to keep plants safe and warm during the winter. The bad news is that it requires construction work and is not the most visually pleasing solution.

• Build a somewhat more permanent nursery by placing a hinged window or shutter on the open side of a box made of scraps of wood.
• Build a greenhouse out of PVC arches.
• Make sure the plants in the greenhouse or nursery receive adequate ventilation. Think how hot the interior of the car gets on a sunny day. If the temperatures are hot during the day, open the shelter to let the air circulate. Failure to do so can cause the plants to overheat or create too much humidity indoors.

5
Water the plants. Water the soil around the plants liberally before a very cold night or frost. Soil traps heat better when wet rather than dry, and water slowly evaporates, warming the air around the plants. Don't do this if you expect a severe frost, as it could backfire. However, to protect against light frost, abundant watering can help retain the heat of the day at night.

• Do not water frozen soil, as it will not be helpful and can actually make conditions for the plants worse.
• Don't over-water the soil around succulents, as they don't tolerate humidity levels. [2]

6
Provides a source of heat. If there is an episode of extreme cold that the plants will not survive, you can help them by providing a source of heat. Cover them with a plastic canopy, blanket, or homemade greenhouse (as described above) and place the heat source inside. Some possible sources of heat are Christmas lights or a 100 watt light bulb, as they are not hot enough to damage plants, but they are hot enough to increase the temperature. Do not place the heat source in direct contact with the plants, but rather far away, so that it increases the temperature without burning the plants.

• Use extension cords and safe outdoor materials to avoid a dangerous situation.
• Uncover the plants and turn off the heat source during the day to allow them to ventilate. Also, this prevents a fire from starting from an overheated bulb. [3]

7
Choose plants suitable for the climate. It is the simplest and least demanding option. Find out the hardiness zone in which you live, if your country has that classification system, or at least the lowest and highest temperatures possible during the year to get plants that resist them. In the United States, this classification system is run by the USDA. Some plants may dry out, lose their leaves, or become dormant in winter, so take the time to learn which plants are well adapted to the climate. The disadvantage of this method is that the selection of plants is obviously limited.

• Annual plants dry out every year and must be replanted if not self-seeded. In cold climates, some perennials can be grown as annuals if there is no other way for them to survive the winter. The growing season for some annuals can be extended with shelters or by planting them indoors or in a greenhouse.
• Perennials continue to grow year after year. In the case of these, you should find out the additional care required for them to survive the winter, if there is any.
• Talk to people at your favorite nursery about what to expect of a plant during winter in the area. Also ask where to plant and how to care for a plant before buying it.
• Look for varieties and types of plants suitable for the climate. There are more robust cultivated varieties than others, which makes them a better option for cold environments. [4]

Tips

• Find out about the plants you have to find out how cold they tolerate, how they behave in it and what is the best way to help them get through the winter or protect them from frost. Some plants tolerate being covered, transplanted, or digged better than others.
• If a plant has been indoors for a long time or if you are planting a seedling indoors, bring them outside gradually, starting with an hour a day and increasing the time. This is called "hardening" and it helps the plant adapt to the outdoors and become resistant.

VIVOSUN 2 Pack Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10 x 20.75 Inch

 VIVOSUN 2 Pack Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10 x 20.75 Inch

•  RELIABLE RESULTS: VIVOSUN's professional heat mat maintains temperatures in the sweet spot of around 10℉-20℉ above ambient air temperature - perfect for seed starting and cutting propagation!
• BUILT TO LAST: Supple, flexible and ultra-durable, VIVOSUN goes beyond stringent MET standards, with a fortified connection between mat and power cord, water-resistance that enables safe scrubbing and a 1-year warranty.
• STABLE, UNIFORM HEAT: VIVOSUN's strengthened Alloy Nikrothal heating wire and extra layer of insulating PET film ensure this durable mat never scorches your roots and produces lots of revitalizing dew when used with a humidity dome.
• BEST SAVINGS IN THE MARKET: This 10" x 20.75" mat is perfect for standard 1020 trays and slightly larger than comparable mats on the market; it also runs on only 18 Watts to help you save on electricity.
• CONVENIENT STORAGE: Delivered in a high-quality, reusable storage bag, the mat flattens out when heating up and can also be rolled back up for easy storage.
• power source type: Air Powered

Tips for Your Indoor Plants During the Winter

Something that should be clear to us is that the winter season is rarely ideal for growing plants outdoors. Of course, unless you live in a warm and tropical area where the climate is fairly stable and the sun is hot practically all year round.

Luckily there are plants that can live and even thrive indoors. As long as we know how to protect them from the cold and give them the proper care, they will stay beautiful until the weather warms up again and we can return them to the balcony or terrace. Here are some useful tips.

Where to put them in winter

Whether they are plants that live inside your house all year round, or that you have brought them indoors to protect them from the winter cold, where you place them is of the utmost importance. Since you must not only protect them from inclement weather, but also choose a place where they can thrive for several months.

Find them a place away from the heating, since these devices tend to overheat the environment and reduce the little humidity that exists in the air in the interior spaces. Most ornamental plants are tropical species, so they prefer places with certain levels of humidity such as the kitchen or bathroom. 

Also be sure to place them away from open doors or windows, where very cold breezes are constantly blowing in. Ideally, keep them at a fairly constant temperature.

What kind of light do they need?

The ideal place to place them should have good light above all. Ideally, it should be filtered natural light coming through the windows. But if the days are too cloudy and dark, give them a little help with some artificial light.

Many plants can survive for some time in poor light, but you will surely notice a decline. This does not mean that they are dying, but that they have stopped the production of new leaves to rest and adapt to the new environmental conditions. Once the weather changes they will start to recover quickly.

When to water them

One of the most common mistakes when we take plants indoors is in the matter of watering. Indoor plants need to be watered very differently from those we keep outdoors, especially during the winter time.

A rule to follow is the following: the less sun and heat, the lower the risks. When we water our plants, they usually absorb only a portion of the water in the soil. The rest tends to evaporate with the light and heat provided by the sun, or passes into the deeper layers of the ground.

In the case of potted plants and indoors, the water tends to be kept in the ground longer, as it evaporates less easily. Then watering too much, the only thing that will do is create pools of water that will end up rotting the roots of your plants.

What about fertilizer

When the winter time comes the weather gets colder and the days shorter. Plants know this, so they take the opportunity to take a break in the production of branches, leaves and flowers. Therefore they do not need additional food, as the fabric factory will be closed for a while.

The ideal is to fertilize in the times of greatest sun, which go from spring to autumn. If you fertilize in times of cold and little sun, you will stimulate the plants to produce tissues without enough sun to develop. Then these can come out somewhat atrophied and even burn with the cold.

When to take them outside

Once the sun begins to warm up, the days get longer and you know that there will be no more frosts in the garden, it is time to take your plants out to the balcony or terrace. This usually happens in early to mid spring.

Remember that your plants have been indoors for a few months with little sunlight. So the ideal is to remove them gradually. That is, place them in a place with good but filtered light, not under direct sunlight.

Hoffman 10404 Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix, 4 Quarts, Brown/A .1 Pack

 Hoffman 10404 Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix, 4 Quarts, Brown/A .1 Pack

•     Organic cactus and succulent soil mix
•     Professionally formulated for use with both jungle and desert cacti
•     Provides the drainage cacti need to flourish; ready to use; pH balanced
•     Complete package directions provide useful growing information
•     This product measures 4 quarts

How to choose the soil?

The soil is used by most gardeners, both as a substrate for potted plants and for growing in the ground. But what is it made of? Why use potting soil? And above all, how to choose? In fact, there is a wide range of potting soil at all price points and under a large number of different names, making it difficult to navigate at times. Here are some benchmarks to see more clearly and choose the best flooring for your intended use.

Definition of potting soil

Potting soil is a growing medium. It consists mainly of peat and composted plant debris (leaves ...). To improve the structure, topsoil and other organic materials (wood fibers, composted bark, manure ...) can be added. Other elements can come to complete it to give it specific qualities:

Fertilizer: provides nutrients that contribute to the good start of the plantations.
Mineral materials: they are designed to retain water (clay) or to lighten the soil and improve aeration (sand, perlite, vermiculite).

What is soil for?

For potted plantings , potting soil is often the only growing medium and is used as is. Aerated, it allows a good development of the root system, promotes a good anchorage of the plant, limits the suffocation of the soil and, therefore, the rotting of the root. Optimally transports water and nutrients to the plant. Finally, thanks to the various elements it contains or is enriched, it stimulates the growth of the plant.

For crops in the ground , in the garden, the supply of soil is at the level of the planting hole. The soil is used as is or mixed with the garden soil. Its use can serve two different purposes: to improve the nutritional qualities of the soil, which is depleted as crops grow, and / or to improve the soil. There is talk of an amendment when it comes to modifying the structure of the soil, such as improving the ability of a sandy soil to retain water and nutrients or, conversely, lightening a heavy clay soil.

What potting soil to choose according to its use?

The first criteria in choosing a potting soil is the use for which it is intended. Depending on whether you want to plant, seed, transplant, cut, or repot, you will not use the same soil. Also, for some types of plants, a specific soil is needed.

Terreaux for plantation

Universal Soil - In theory, universal potting soil should be suitable for all kinds of uses except plants with special needs. It can be a good option if you are looking to modify the soil in your garden.

• Horticultural soil : it is a soil rich in humus and organic matter (manure, algae ...). Contrary to what its name suggests, it is a very versatile soil, suitable not only for planting flowers and flowering shrubs, but also in the vegetable garden and garden. It is suitable for both pots and field crops, but not for plants with special needs.
• Vegetable soil : it is a soil enriched in organic manure and manure. It is generally used in organic farming.
• Terreau pots and planters: is a potting soil designed to have strong water retention and to limit watering.
• Green Soil Plants: It is an aerated soil that promotes rooting of plants to allow them a harmonious growth.

Some plants have special needs, which absolutely require the use of suitable soil: they are heather or acidophilic plants (azaleas, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, camellias ...), cacti and succulents. Orchids and citrus.

• Heather earth : it is an acid soil, which can be composed of pure earth (true heather earth), or simply a mixture of various elements (peat, pine bark ...) making the potting soil acidic.

Cacti terrines and succulents: sand and pozzolana are part of its composition, for a very light and draining potting soil.

Soil orchids: it is also a very airy soil, rich in bark and pozzolana or perlite.

• Citrus soil: it is a soil rich in clay, which retains enough water while being light and flexible. Enriched with nutrients more specifically for citrus, it promotes their growth and fruiting.

Soil Roses, Geranium Potting Soil - Roses and geraniums don't really need specific potting soil. Rose potting soil or potting soil geraniums are good organic materials enriched in vegetables. You can use a rose potting soil for all the flowers in your garden and a geranium potting soil for all of your flower boxes.

Soil for seedlings, cuttings and pots.

The soil for sowing and cuttings is a healthy soil, particularly fine and light, which favors the success of planting and cuttings. It can be used for both types of operations, even if it is not expressly mentioned in the name "cuts". This potting soil can also be used to transplant flower or vegetable seedlings after planting.
The soil pot is a pot soil adapted to pot all potted plants, green or flower, except those with specific needs.

How to recognize a potting soil?

Good quality potting soil is dark in color. It must be flexible to the touch and homogeneous. Large badly decomposed elements are, on the contrary, the mark of a mediocre soil. Finally it must be easily wet and retain water.

• For the rest, read the labels! Depending on the type of compost you are looking for, some mentions are quality compromises: presence of manure, organic fertilizer, rooting stimulator ... On the contrary, unless they are specific uses, a soil very rich in bark and wood fiber. less interesting because it is grosser and less decomposed.
• The mention "usable in organic agriculture" is an advantage, guaranteeing the absence of any chemical product in the soil.
• In general, avoid very cheap land. They can simply serve to improve the structure of your soil, especially if you already regularly compost it.

Good soil, often the only substrate for potted plants, is the guarantee of good rooting while promoting optimal water and nutrient intake to the roots. It is worth choosing carefully, always in accordance with the intended use!

Professional Grower Mix Soil Fast Draining Pre-Mixed Coarse Blend (2 Quarts)

Professional Grower Mix Soil Fast Draining Pre-Mixed Coarse Blend (2 Quarts)
 

•  Professionally formulated, imported from Denmark, to provide optimum growth for bonsai succulent and cacti plant and other indoor houseplants
• Organic cactus and succulent soil mix, light-weight, well draining, pH balance (5.5). Our soil provides the plant support, moisture and drainage bonsai trees need
• Perfectly for most succulent and cacti varieties, crassula ovata jade, donkey’s tail and other bonsai species. 100% organic and all natural bonsai soil
• Well draining The Next Gardener succulent potting soil helps prevent root rot and overwatering
• This soil is optimized for pH of 5.5. Neutral pH soil mix is perfect for succulents, cactus, bonsai and other acid-loving plants

Prepare and fertilize the garden

The vast majority of garden plants need a fertile soil , since it is their primary source of nutrients, and at the same time and with a good capacity to retain water and drain properly at the same time.

Prepare the ground and fertilize the soil in your garden

Land preparation is essential for your ornamental plants to develop well, especially if it is in the ground, but also if you use substrates in bags ready to use in pots and planters. The addition of organic fertilizer during the preparation of the flowerbeds and flowerbeds at the beginning of spring or autumn for sowing or planting, will restore the fertility and physical qualities that it has lost with your previous plantings and will make it available to the new ones. You plant the food and conditions they need to grow healthy and strong. This way they can provide you with an abundant and beautiful flowering.

STEP 1 How to prepare the garden soil

Step 1.1: Remove weeds and clean the land

Remove the pine bark or aggregates that you used to mulch the soil with the previous crop. Eliminate the remains of annual and biannual plants that have already completed their cycle, and the perennials (or perennial herbaceous) that you have decided to discard, as well as any weeds that have emerged.

Weeds appear all year round. Remove them periodically, you can help yourself with a rake to remove the remains of vegetation and roots.

Step 1.2: Prepare the soil for planting

Till the ground to a depth of 20 centimeters if you are going to sow. If you are going to plant developed specimens, take into account the height of the root ball to deepen what is necessary. Use a hoe or shovel. If the extension is large, you should use a motor hoe. Try not to affect the root zone of the plants that will remain in place (perennials, shrubs). You must turn the soil and break up the clods to get a soft and loose substrate where the roots of the plants can expand easily.

Step 1.3: Make a background fertilizer

Intermix the soil with organic matter (mulch, compost, worm castings, composted horse manure), you will recover the nutrients that have been lost with the previous crops and the new plants will have the necessary food to develop. You will also improve the structure and texture of the soil, fluffing those of the clay type, which tend to compact, and agglutinating the sandy ones. This is what is called a background subscriber.

Use substrates in ready-to-use bags, containing compost for the first weeks. This will save you the work of preparing the ground.

Step 1.4:  Prepare the soil for the next planting

Smooth the surface with a rake to make it even. Wait at least 15 days before sowing or planting.

If your garden bed is large, we recommend using a motor hoe to till it. It will be easier and you will save time. These handy tools can be electric or gasoline-powered.

STEP 2 Planters and pots

The different types of containers for growing ornamental plants in a patio or terrace - pots, planters, drawers, with and without a water reserve - are easily filled with substrates in bags.

Step 2.1: Provide nutrients to the soil

Place a layer of gravel at the bottom of the container to ensure good drainage and avoid puddling at the root level. Fill it with universal or special substrate for the type of plants you want to plant, ensuring that it is loose and without lumps. These specific substrates already include compost, so you won't need to add mulch. Leave two fingers between the surface of the substrate and the edge of the mount.

If you have already cultivated before in the substrate present in the container, it is not necessary to renew it completely. Remove the remains of the previous crops and remove the soil with a hoe until it is very loose and soft. Spread a light layer of compost and weave it around. You can also add new substrate.

Step 2.2: Work the soil before planting
Smooth the surface with the rake. You can sow the seeds or plant the specimens immediately. Once the plants are in place, add substrate around it and tamp it down with your fingers.

Step 2.3: Water generously
So that the seeds or plants settle well in the substrate and any remaining air pockets disappear. In the case of plants, this step is important so that the substrate is well adhered to the root ball.

Planters, especially those made of autoclaved wood, can function as small grow boxes, ideal for placing in a corner. They usually carry a geotextile bag inside to contain the soil and preserve the wood, or spacers to isolate crops.

STEP 3 A substrate for each type of plants

The different types of containers for growing ornamental plants in a patio or terrace - pots, planters, drawers, with and without a water reserve - are easily filled with substrates in bags.

Choose the right substrate

At LEROY MERLIN you will find universal or specific substrate bags for different types of crops, ready to use. They are quality products, 100% organic, free of seeds, weeds and heavy metals, and with the ideal degree of porosity for growing, so it is always kept fresh, that is, neither too wet nor dry.

- Universal substrates: you can use them for all types of plantations. There is also a universal substrate with hydrogels, which allow optimizing irrigation water, and light ones, weighing 50% less than usual, thanks to the presence of peat in their composition.

- Specific substrates: there are substrates specially formulated for:

• Flowering plants and geraniums
• Hydrangeas and azaleas (acidophilic)
• Cactus and succulents
• Green and indoor plants
• Orchids
• Rosales
• Transplants

Miracle-Gro 72776430 Indoor Potting Mix 6 Qt

 Miracle-Gro 72776430 Indoor Potting Mix 6 Qt

•  Blended for a wide variety of container plants
• Feeds up to 6 months
• Designed to be less prone to gnats (Contains no compost or bark, which are known to shelter fungus gnats)
• Contains coconut coir, which holds and releases water and helps soil easily re wet
• For use in containers

Soil to cultivate - useful tips for preparing the soil

Today we want to talk to you a little about the preparation and care of the land before proceeding with the planting of the plants. As you already know, the land must be fertile enough to ensure proper plant development, so you should not miss our advice.

Practical tips for preparing farmland

Before fertilizing, you must know the type of soil you have in the garden. If it is a soil with excess nutrients, this can be as harmful as its absence.

Fertilize and fertilize the land for cultivation

These cases lead to alterations in plant growth, reduced product quality, loss of natural sources of raw materials and water-soluble minerals such as potassium, magnesium, nitric nitrogen, which fall into groundwater instead of remaining in soil.

Types of manures and fertilizers

In order to live and grow, plants need not only water and carbon dioxide, but also nutrients. They can only absorb dissolved minerals, so we must provide them with access to them.

Select the appropriate fertilizers for the terrain

Sometimes we can guess that there is a lack of nutrients by looking at the appearance of the plant and especially in the way it develops.

How to prepare the garden soil

Amateur gardeners when it comes to fertilizing must choose the right product since the shelves of specialized stores present many products.

Tips on how to grow plants in the garden

Each group of plants has at least one type of special fertilizer, as some of these plants have specific needs. But sometimes it can be a mistake to be guided by the ads, it is good to know the individual needs of each species.

Tips for preparing the soil for planting

Nitric nitrogen contained in the soil cannot be stored, and the rain pushes it into the deeper layers of the soil, where it threatens the quality of groundwater.

Tips for preparing the farmland

Our advice is to fertilize organically as much as possible. This means that you recycle the nutrients present in nature's cycle. Mineral fertilizers should be used when plants suffer from a serious lack of nutrients.Prepare the land with compost and fertilizers

Next we are going to see the ten most important types of fertilizers. Compost is not a fertilizer and soil adjuvant, it contains nutrients. Humus improves the structure of the soil. Mature compost contains an average of 0.3% nitrogen, 0.1% phosphorus and 0.3% potassium. Depending on the composting material, these concentrations vary.

Grow a home garden in the garden

If there is manure in the compost, it will increase the nitrogen and phosphate composition. Potassium is supplied again from bird droppings. Compost, however, contains many elements and raises the pH of the soil. Therefore, plants that are sensitive to limestone and lime must be fertilized with compost.Tips for preparing the ground for a vegetable garden

Cow manure is not for sensitive noses, but it is a very good concentration of organic fertilizer of active nutrients. It improves the long-term structure of the soil, as the straw and other fibers turn into humus.

Prepare the soil for sowing spices

It is important that the fertilizer is mature and that the best quality is dark manure. There are special nozzles that disperse the cow manure over a larger area.Tips for gardening at home

Horn shavings are another type of compost made, literally, of horns and hooves of slaughtered animals. In Germany most farm animals have horns but this raw material is imported mainly from South America.

Prepare the land before sowing

When it is ground to a very fine powder, the horn flour is obtained. If you plant trees, shrubs or roses, immediately pour a handful of this flour into the places where it is dug.Tips for planting flowers in the garden

The compost is considered complete fertilizer because it contains all the necessary nutrients for the soil fertility and plant nutrition. The ideal dose is 75 g. for 150 g. per square meter.

Original ideas for planting flowers in pots

In combination with soluble fertilizers, the blue colored crystals are suitable for all types of ornamental plants for balconies and in pots or in the garden. They act fast and should only be used when there is a great need for nutrients. Keep in mind that it is often necessary to put a smaller dose than what is printed on the package.

Ways to measure minerals and soil pH

The concentrated liquid manure is mainly used to fertilize potted plants. Depending on their nature, the offer is greater: from nitrogen-rich for orchids to phosphate-rich, ideal for balcony flowers. It is mandatory to buy a branded product.

Fertilize the soil to plant in the garden

Most liquid fertilizers work from the ground. During the growing season in flower pot and balcony plants, fertilization takes place in a period of two weeks. It is better to be a little prudent and put less than indicated to avoid misfortunes. First of all, fill halfway with water, put the manure, and then fill the rest with water.

How to grow home garden plots

The fertilizers for the field are fertilizers that adjust to the needs of the lawn. These are long-term fertilizers, that is, substances in which they are not released immediately.

Advice and special care for the earth

Patentkali are low-chloride fertilizers and are particularly suitable for vegetables, fruit trees, ornamental trees and herbaceous perennials.Preparing the garden soil for planting

Plants such as tomatoes, potatoes and root crops can be fertilized with Patentkaliy. In all other plants, it is important to do it in September so that the potassium best serves the young shoots before winter to be more sustainable and to create the characteristic brown bark.

Ways to fertilize the soil

Magnesium sulfate or bitter salt contains 16% magnesium, which is used only in acute lack of nutrients in the soil. Magnesium is an important component of chlorophyll. It is suitable especially for coniferous plants.

Types of fertilizers for the earth

Some spruce trees planted in sandy soils often have the needles that are yellowish or tinged brown, and then they begin to fall. If you have a fir or pine tree in the garden, first check for pests such as aphids or some fungi.

Practical tips for growing plants

Superphosphate fertilizers have a high content of nutrient phosphate. One of the three essential nutrients for healthy plant growth, phosphate can be applied in a high concentration with a fertilizer to plants ranging from houseplants to agricultural crops.

Prepare the ground for planting plants

There are several different types of this fertilizer that have been created for different needs. The three different types of superphosphate fertilizers are distinguished by the amount of phosphate in them.

How to plant plants in the garden

Simple superphosphate is the mildest grade, containing between 16 and 20 percent phosphate. It is available in liquid form or in a dry formula, both of which are used just as effectively by plants.

Tips for planting plants in fertile soil

Also known as normal superphosphate fertilizer, dicalcium superphosphate is the next grade, containing 35 to 38 percent phosphate part, depending on the mix and brand.

Ways to prepare the ground for planting

The strongest version of triple superphosphate fertilizers is phosphate. Also known as concentrated superphosphate, it is typically combined with another type of compost to be applied as a compound.

Types of minerals for plants

Triple superphosphate is most often used in an agricultural setting or with cash crops; There are several processes used to create this type of fertilizer, and in most cases, it is available as a granular form.

Ideas on how to fertilize arid land

All three types of superphosphate are generally made from a naturally occurring substance called rock phosphate.

Gardening in the garden

While this can be applied as a compost in its raw form, putting it through chemical reactions to create other types of fertilizers has been found to make it more effective.

Helpful tips for planting plants

We hope you enjoyed this article, we will return very soon with more useful tips and landscape trends, we are waiting for you.

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Soil improvement

Farmers know that healthy soil is necessary to achieve a good harvest. Many farmers enrich the land with natural fertilizers such as manure (from animals), green manure (from plants), and compost. Natural fertilizers are healthier for soil, plants, water, air, and people than chemical fertilizers, and they produce all the nutrients plants need for free or at a very low cost.

To know the grounds

Soil is a mix of sand, sediment, clay, and organic matter (for example, insects, bacteria, green leaves, decaying plants, and compost). The ratio of each component and the farming methods you apply will affect the soil's texture (coarse or fine), its fertility (how rich it is to grow), and its structure (how the soil sticks together). A soil with good texture and fertility gives air, water, nutrients and roots room to move freely. This improves the land's ability to support crops and resist erosion.

Furthermore, soils can be alkaline (also called "basic" or "sweet") or acid (also called "sour"). The "pH" of the soil (whether it is sweet or sour) can be determined by testing or simply testing whether the taste is sweet or sour. Most plants grow best in soils that are neither too sweet nor too sour. Specific nutrients are added to further sweeten or sour the soil. Adding organic matter tends to improve all soils.

Using heavy equipment to plow, remove, or dig, the soil can be compacted (pressed to the point that there is no space or air left). It is difficult for water or plant roots to enter compacted soil. It is also difficult for plants to get the nutrients they need if the soil is compacted.

To prevent the soil from compacting, remove the foreign matter and stir the soil when it is not too wet or too dry, but wet as when squeezing a cloth. Many farmers stir the soil as little as possible, add manure and crop debris, and use methods such as planting holes or green manure to loosen the soil for planting.

Chemical fertilizers may be helpful now, but hurt later

Chemical fertilizers are costly for both the farmer and the land because they damage the land, pollute the water and create the need to buy more chemicals. The letters NPK usually appear on the fertilizer bag, which represents the main nutrients that plants need (N is Nitrogen, P is Phosphorus and K is Potassium or Potash). Chemical fertilizers have concentrated (very strong) amounts of these chemicals. If these concentrated nutrients run off from the grounds into groundwater and rivers and aqueducts, the water
becomes dangerous to drink, wash and bathe.

The biggest problem for developing crops with chemical fertilizers is that farmers who use them frequently stop adding organic matter such as manure to the soil, and as a consequence the soil quickly loses its nutrients and becomes compact, which results in to pest problems, poor harvests, loss of water, and increased dependence on chemical fertilizers. If you use chemical fertilizers, it is important to also add natural fertilizers.

Learning about soils

Purpose: This activity serves to show how different agricultural practices affect the land.

Duration: 3 hours.

Materials: Scraping tools, 3 boards or cardboard, water, paper and pencil or marker.

Choose 3 parcels of agricultural land that have been used for different uses. For example, choose a cornfield or dry rice field, a kitchen garden or home garden, and a lot that has been used as pasture for many years. The lots should be within walking distance of each other to be able to walk from one to the other.

• With a group of farmers, go to each of the locations. Cross from top to bottom, observing all the factors that could affect the terrain. What indications allow us to determine the use that has been given to the land? Are there signs of erosion? (for example, are there ravines, rocky or bare places, richer soil at the foot of the hill than at the top?) Do the plants look healthy?
• Talk to the farmers of each of the fields to find out what practices they have applied during the last 5 to 10 years. Do the group's observations match what you learned from the farmers?
• Dig a small hole 50 cm deep in each plot. Cut one of the walls of the hole vertically and evenly. With a flat shovel or a long machete cut a 3 cm wide slice of this wall and place it carefully on a board or flat surface. Label the sample to identify where it came from.
• When you have taken the soil samples from the 3 locations, take them to the meeting place where the group can examine them. What are the differences between the different samples? Look carefully for differences in color, texture, structure, odor, and the presence or absence of worms and insects. You may be able to taste a little of each soil to compare the pH. Is it sweet or sour? Have each person pick up some soil from the different samples. Put some water on each sample and see if it is sticky, rough, smooth, or cracks.
• Discuss which differences may have been caused naturally by wind and weather, and which by land use.

Taking into account the knowledge of the people, the directions in this book, and information from other sources, discuss possible measures to protect or improve the land where you want to farm. These measures may include the use of natural fertilizers , protecting the land against erosion , applying sustainable grazing practices and other agricultural practices.

Green manure (from plants) and cover crops

For the green manure those plants are used that serve to fertilize the earth. These same plants are used to protect crops and smother herbs. Many plants serve both tasks and are therefore known by both names, "green manures" and "cover crops."

Many of the green manures are from the legume family (plants with seeds in pods, for example peas, beans and tamarind trees). Legume plants add nitrogen to the soil. If you start a bean plant, or look at the root of a tree, you will see small balls that form at the roots. These little balls retain nitrogen from the air and put it in the soil to make it more fertile.




Green manures offer many advantages:

• They cover the land, protecting it from erosion and helping to retain water.
• They add organic matter to the soil, making it more fertile.
• After using green manure for many years, it is easier to work the soil.
• There are no labor or transport costs because green manures grow right in the field where they will be used.
• When grown with other crops, they control weeds and insect pests.

Green manures have other uses besides improving the land. Some produce food, for example oats, amaranth, rye, and beans. Others produce fodder for animals, for example alfalfa and clover. Plants like Sudan grass and others in the mustard family ward off crop diseases. Trees used as green manure can be used for firewood.


Three common uses of green manure

• Grow it alongside major crops such as corn, millet, and cassava (manioc).
• Sow the green manure plants when the soil is to rest (fallow); one year of fallow with green manure improves the soil and removes weeds just like a five year fallow without green manure.
• Grow it during the dry season, after harvesting the main crop.

The best cover crop is a mix of plants. A grain that grows quickly into a tall plant could add organic matter to the soil, while a bean crop will add nitrogen and cover the soil at the same time. Talk to other farmers in the region to find out what's best for their land.

Dead cover (mulch)

It is best to keep the land covered, even during the growing season. Dead cover is understood to be any element that is used to cover farmland. Dead mulch, or mulch, helps retain water, controls weeds, and prevents erosion. Plant debris, such as corn stalks, bean stalks, or grasses, are best suited to produce dead mulch since they can simply be left to rot in place and thus add organic matter to the soil. Herbs can be used in the same way, but must be cut before they produce seeds, to prevent regrowth.

The dead cover should not be more than 10 cm thick. Too thick mulch can hold in too much moisture and cause plant disease.

Manure

Manure gives the plants all the necessary nutrients, and over time improves the texture, structure and fertility of the soil. Chemical fertilizers, on the other hand, give crops only 2 or 3 nutrients and do not improve the soil.

Care must be taken when composting manure. If used too much, too many nutrients could accumulate in the soil and water sources could also be contaminated. Fresh manure also contains germs that can cause disease. Don't put fresh manure near drainage ditches, rivers, streams, or aqueducts. Always wash your hands and wash your clothes thoroughly after handling manure.

Fertilization with human waste

Human urine can become fertilizer and feces, after proper treatment, can add organic matter to the soil. However, human waste contains dangerous microbes and can cause disease if not managed properly ( Chapter 7 explains how to safely use human waste to improve crop yields).

Compost (organic compost)

Compost, or compost, is a natural fertilizer made from food waste, crop residues, herbs, and manure. By adding it to the soil, its nutrients can be returned to it. However, since it would be very difficult to produce enough compost for an entire plot, compost is generally applied in small plots.



Compost can be applied in different ways:

• Put a shovel full of compost in the bottom of the hole before planting a fruit tree.
• Mix a handful of compost with the soil from the hole when sowing the seeds.
• Spread a layer of compost on top of the soil before turning.
• When the plants are growing, put a circle of compost around their stem. If it is a tree, the diameter of the circle should be approximately equal to the edge of the tree's shadow at noon. Cover it with a little soil. The plant will feed slowly, as the water carries the nutrients to the roots.

Compost tea (liquid organic compost)

Compost can be used to make a liquid compost for plants to help control pests. Wrap some compost in a piece of cloth and tie it together creating a beanbag. Put it in a bucket of water for 7 to 14 days. When the water turns brown, remove the sachet and spread the remains of the compost on the grounds. Sprinkle or water the water ("compost tea") on the leaves of the plants. Be sure to wash your hands after handling this water.

Other methods of adding nutrients to the soil

Other materials can be added to change the pH and add nutrients to the soil. Limestone, wood ash, and ground bones and shells lower the acidity of the soil, while dry leaves and pine needles raise it. Sugarcane that has been left to rot for at least a year and dried, ground coffee pulp add nutrients. In this way crop residues can be used as fertilizers.

Land improvement helps control weeds

All organic soil improvement methods such as green manure, compost, and cover crops also serve to control weeds. When the soil is healthy, herbs in small amounts do not affect crop yields.


Herbs can also be controlled if the plants are planted closely together so that there is no room for the weed, and if the animals are allowed to eat the weed. Crops native to the area tend to resist damage from local grasses better. After many years, locally developed crops adapt to the climate, herbs and pests, and survive better than other crops or other varieties of the same crop.

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SOIL ELEMENTS ESSENTIAL FOR PLANTS

Summary.

• 1. Criteria of essentiality.
• 2. Absorption of nutritive elements by plants.
• 3. Classification of nutritional elements.
• 4. Conclusions.

SUMMARY

Current knowledge about plant organisms makes it possible to ensure that almost all of them are composed of only three fundamental elements, which are C, H and O. Plants obtain both carbon and oxygen directly from the air by photosynthesis, while the Hydrogen comes directly or indirectly from soil water. Plants, however, are incapable of living solely on air and water, requiring chemical elements that, generally, are provided at the expense of mineral substances in the soil. It is interesting to note that these elements, which plants obtain from the soil, are the ones that commonly limit the development of crops. Plant growth, except for exceptional circumstances, such as drought, low temperatures, abnormal soils or diseases,

1. ESSENTIAL CRITERIA

These essential criteria were established by Arnon and Stout in 1939 and are listed below:

• 1. An element cannot be considered essential unless its absence makes it impossible to complete the vegetative or reproductive stages of its life cycle.
• 2. The deficiency must be specific to the item in question, and can only be avoided or corrected by providing it.
• 3. The element must be directly involved in the nutrition of the plant, regardless of its possible effects on the correction of unfavorable chemical or microbiological conditions of the external environment.

Although these criteria have been accepted as valid and fully applied to all living things, some researchers consider that the second criterion is not totally correct. For example, molybdenum is required for N fixation by bacteria of the genus Azotobacter sp . However, in some species of this genus molybdenum can be substituted for vanadium. Another example is sodium, which is not considered essential for all plants, but its presence has been shown in practice to increase yield in many crops. Therefore, from an economic point of view, sodium should be considered an essential element.

2. ABSORPTION OF NUTRITIVE ELEMENTS BY PLANTS

Only a small part of each nutrient present in the soil is available to plants (2%). The rest (98%) appears in forms not assimilated by plants, that is, it is firmly linked to the mineral fraction and organic matter, being inaccessible as long as it is not affected by the decomposition processes. These occur slowly, over long periods, and the nutrients are released gradually.



Plants absorb the nutrients contained in the air and in the soil through the leaves and roots. CO 2 , a source of carbon and oxygen, is absorbed through the stomata of the leaves, while the other nutrients are generally absorbed from the dissolution of the soil through the roots .

Plants absorb nutrients through the numerous root hairs that young roots have, which are continually renewed, since they have a life of a few days. These root hairs secrete acidic substances that help to solubilize difficultly soluble compounds, such as phosphates and carbonates. In this solubilization action the CO 2 produced by the respiration of the roots also intervenes .

The nutritive elements that plants absorb from the soil come from rocks (except in the case of N, which comes from the air), which slowly degrades into soluble compounds. These compounds dissociate in soil water into positive ions (cations) and negative ions (anions), and in these forms they are assimilated by plants (photo 1). The ions can be free in the soil solution or can be adsorbed by the colloidal particles of the same. The anions and a small part of the cations are contained in the soil solution, while most of the cations are adsorbed on the colloidal complex. The ions adsorbed by the colloidal particles can be absorbed directly by the roots or, more frequently, pass first into the soil solution, from where they are absorbed by the roots. When an ion passes from solution to the plant, another ion passes from the complex to solution, in order to maintain a proper ion concentration.

In general, the amount of macronutrients that plants need to absorb in order to develop their life cycle is significantly higher than that of micronutrients. In this way, it is explained the fact that the absorption of macroelements by crops can represent a significant amount compared to the reserves of said elements contained in the soil. This shows the need to add manures and fertilizers to most agricultural soils (photo 2).


The proportion of macronutrients extracted by the harvests can represent practically all of the stocks in the soil, while in the extraction of micronutrients from the soil, these quantities never represent such a high proportion of the total but, in general, only represent a small percentage of the total amount existing in a soil. This means that, with few exceptions, deficiencies should not appear in terms of crop nutrition, and yet this is not the case. It must be taken into account that, due to their characteristics, microelements generally have low mobility derived from conditioning factors, which is why they are not easily assimilated by plants. This, together with the influence of cultivation techniques and the characteristics of the cultivated species,



There are numerous factors inherent to the environment (soil and climate) that influence the greater or lesser degree of absorption of nutrients. These factors include the following:

1. Soil texture.

Soils with fine textures have a greater external surface, so the agents that alter their structure have a greater possibility of action: 1g of colloidal clay presents an external surface 1,000 times greater than that presented by the same amount of coarse sand.

2. Soil pH .

For certain pH values, some assimilable elements are transformed into their non-assimilable forms, due to the fact that they become part of the insoluble compounds. For example, iron in a basic medium results in an insoluble hydroxide. On other occasions volatile compounds are produced, which are lost as they escape into the atmosphere; such is the case of ammonium fertilizers, which in basic soils produce ammonia, part of which is lost to the atmosphere when the fertilizer is added to the soil surface.

3. Interactions between ions.

On some occasions there are interactions between two ions, which make it difficult or easier to absorb one of them. Antagonism occurs when one of the ions tends to inhibit the absorption of the other, especially when the concentration of one of them increases. This is the case, for example, of potassium-magnesium antagonism, where the higher concentration of potassium causes a deficient assimilation of magnesium. Synergism occurs when one of the ions favors the absorption of the other, as occurs, for example, with nitrogen and potassium.

4. Climate.

The factors that most influence absorption are temperature and humidity. As the temperature increases, the absorption increases, due to a greater biochemical activity, until it reaches an optimum level, above which it progressively decreases until it stops. At low temperatures, the opposite occurs since biochemical activity is hampered and solubility in the soil decreases. Similarly, it happens that as humidity increases there is an increase in the absorption of nutrients.

3. CLASSIFICATION OF NUTRITIVE ELEMENTS

Currently it is admitted that higher plants can contain up to 60 elements, of which 16 of them (C, H, O, N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, Fe, Mn, B, Mo, Cu, Zn and Cl) are considered essential for their normal development while another 4 (Na, Si, Co and V) are considered only essential for some of them (figure 1). All these elements perform very important functions in plants, and when they are present in insufficient quantities, serious alterations can occur and their growth can be significantly reduced.

Of the 16 essential elements, the first 3 are supplied mainly by air and water, while the remaining 13 are supplied by the soil. These nutritive elements supplied by the soil can be classified into macro- and microelements, depending on whether the plants need to absorb relatively large or small amounts of them. As macroelements, N, P, K, Ca, Mg and S should be highlighted and as microelements, trace elements or trace elements essential for plants are Fe, Mn, B, Mo, Cu, Zn, and Cl.



MACRONUTRIENTS: Primary elements (N, P and K) and secondary (Ca, Mg and S).

Macronutrients are the necessary elements in relatively abundant quantities to ensure the growth and survival of plants. The presence of a sufficient quantity of nutritive elements in the soil does not by itself guarantee the correct nutrition of the plants, since these elements must be found in molecular forms that allow their assimilation by the vegetation. In short, it can be said that a sufficient quantity and adequate availability are essential for the correct development of the vegetation.

Within these, it is possible to distinguish between primary elements (N, P and K) and secondary elements (Ca, Mg and S).

1. Primary elements.

In most crops, the needs of the plants are higher than the existing reserves in assimilable form of the elements in the soil, so it is necessary to make contributions through the use of compost and fertilizing substances. The primary elements are considered to be N, P, and K.

- Nitrogen (N) .

The processes of combining N with another element are called nitrogen fixation and are carried out, in nature, thanks to the action of certain microorganisms and the electrical discharges that take place in the atmosphere. However, the amount of fixed N is usually small compared to what plants could use. About 99% of the combined N in the soil is contained in organic matter. Organic N, included in large and complex molecules, would be inaccessible to higher plants if it were not previously released by microorganisms. Microbial activity gradually breaks down complex organic materials into simple inorganic ions, which can be used by plants. How quickly crops would potentially be able to use N, it usually exceeds the speed with which it is released. Consequently, the amount of N available in the soil is usually relatively very small.

- Phosphorus (P) .

Unlike N, which can be incorporated into soils through biochemical fixation by microorganisms, P does not have such microbial support since it comes only from the decomposition of the bedrock that takes place during the weathering process. The amount of total P in the soil, expressed as P 2 O 5 , rarely exceeds 0.50% and can be classified as inorganic and organic. Inorganic P is supplied by the weathering of minerals such as apatite Ca 5 (PO 4 ) 3F and to a lesser extent it can be part of the silicate chain where it replaces silicon, or found in newly formed minerals. Organic P is of great importance for soil fertility because certain organic compounds are an indirect source of soluble forms. Humus and other types of non-humid organic matter are the main source of organic P in the soil.

- Potassium (K).

K is, perhaps, the mineral element that is found in the highest proportion in plants and is relatively frequent in rocks. Regardless of the K that is added as a component of various fertilizers, the K present in soils comes from the disintegration and decomposition of rocks that contain potassium minerals. Along with this mineral K should be included that from the decomposition of plant and animal remains. Unlike P, K is found in relatively large amounts in most soils. In general, its content as K 2Or it ranges from 0.20-3.30% and depends on the texture. In sodium soils, it varies between 2.50-6.70%. The clayey fraction is the one with the highest K content, so clay and silty-clayey soils are richer than silty-sandy and sandy soils, also taking into account that the variation in K content is influenced by the intensity of losses due to crop extraction, leaching and erosion.

2. Secondary elements.

The amounts of these elements present in the soil usually cover the needs of the crops, so, in general, it is not necessary to make contributions of any kind to the soil. This group of elements includes Ca, Mg and S.

- Calcium (Ca).

The Ca present in the soil, apart from being added as fertilizer or amendment, comes from rocks and minerals in the soil, and its total content can vary widely. In soils considered non-limestone it ranges between 0.10 and 0.20%, while in limestone it can reach up to 25%. In general, it can be said that Ca comes from the weathering of minerals. These materials are so common that most soils contain enough Ca to cover much of the plant's needs.

- Magnesium (Mg).

Mg is a chemically very active element, but it does not appear by itself as a free element in nature, but is distributed in mineral form. According to various estimates, its average content in the earth's crust can be around 2.30% while in the ground it is close to 0.50%.



MICRONUTRIENTS

They are called micronutrients, those essential elements for plants to complete their life cycle, even if the necessary amounts of them are very small. The total content of micronutrients in the soil is a function of the starting material and the edaphological processes. Those elements whose total concentration in the soil is normally less than 1000 mg / kg are called trace elements. Within this group we can include micronutrients (Cu, Mn and Zn), essential for plants and animals in low concentration, but which can become toxic when reaching certain levels. The exception among them is in Fe, which is a micronutrient but not strictly a trace element.

- Iron (Fe).

Despite its abundance in soils and rocks, it is one of the most deficient micronutrients. Fe is the fourth most abundant element in the continental crust after O, Si and Al, constituting around 15% by weight of the earth's crust. It is, by far, the most abundant microelement in soils, either as a mineral constituent or in the form of oxides and hydroxides. However, in soils with horizons enriched in organic matter, Fe appears mainly in the form of chelates. Its content in temperate soils usually varies between 1 and 5%. In isolated cases, values ​​close to 10% can be found. In the soil, the Fe content fluctuates in the range of 0.20 to 5%, in an order of magnitude similar to that of the underlying rock.

- Copper (Cu).

Cu is one of the most important essential elements for both plants and animals; however, excessive amounts of it can produce toxic effects. Among the different types of igneous rocks, Cu prevails in the basalts. In sedimentary rocks it is more abundant in shales. In general, its abundance in basaltic rocks is higher than in granitic ones, and very low in carbonate rocks.

-Manganese (Mn) .

The Mn present in soils is mainly caused by the decomposition of ferromagnesic rocks. It is a microelement similar to Fe, both in its chemistry and in its geology and very abundant in the lithosphere. In rocks, the Mn content varies between 350 and 2000 mg / kg. The content in the soil shows considerable variations, but normally fluctuates between 20 and 800 mg / kg. However, and as in the case of Fe, these total contents cannot be considered as an indication of its availability to plants since there are many factors that affect its absorption.

- Zinc (Zn).

Zn is a widely distributed element that is found in small but sufficient amounts in most soils and plants. The amount of Zn that can be found in a soil depends directly on the nature of the bedrock. There is, however, an important aspect that needs to be highlighted in relation to the useful Zn in soils and that is that the superficial part of many of them, which corresponds to the upper horizons, always contains more Zn than the lower horizons. It is believed that this fact is due, on the one hand, to the fact that plant residues, upon being deposited on the surface of the soil, provide after their decomposition, a certain amount of the element; on the other hand, Zn does not present a downward migration in the profile, as occurs with other elements,

4. CONCLUSIONS

Water and dissolved nutrients, which are normally absorbed by the roots, can also be absorbed by the leaves. Foliar applications are effective especially when the plant needs some nutrients immediately, such as: Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu and Mo. When the soil contains an excessive amount of essential elements in a form assimilable by plants, normal development of these can be seriously affected. In general, there are usually no problems in this regard with macroelements, but there may be problems with some microelements, where there is a narrow margin between optimal and toxic levels.